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Sticks

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  1. When the screws are removed, the handwheel pops out a bit but the guard is still tight. Anyone else can help ?
  2. Thnx for the reply. Yes ,instinctively thats why I did,,the handle though doesnt slide out as I imagined. As it is not my machine im just trying to be very careful, Im hoping someone who knows this specific machine would know for sure. Thnx
  3. Hi guys, Ill keep this short. Does anyone know how to remove this belt shroud on this machine.? I need to change the belt but cant figure out how the shroud/guard comes off. Im referring to the top guard directly around the wheel. Thnx Does the wheel have to be removed.?
  4. Thnx Wiz, I found them.Well the corresponding ones anyway.DIA point in 135x16 system.
  5. Hi guys, hope its ok to add to this thread. Does anyone know where the S points can be found.? I looked everywhere.
  6. Awesome.Ill be around. Thnx Letter
  7. Letter, absolutely not !! No reason for me to think that at all. I was genuinely wondering what prices you had seen to think the prices would be similar to mine, as I would still buy a Landis crank if they cost what my mill costs which is around the 140 pound sterling mark. (not possible) Now you have looked at the more expensive mills it all makes sense. The whole point of this project was to have the ability to split consistently but to achieve that for way less than the price of the link here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-American-Model-A-Hand-Crank-Leather-Splitter-LS440-Antique-St-Louis-USA/201532593654?hash=item2eec4755f6:g:3I8AAOSwkX9ZptQw As you have probably seen (color coding and build of my mill) the Chinese ones would be perfectly suited for this as it would most likely be the same as what you saw. You need not use a Durston mill for this project. I do see what you mean about the skills to do it but I had never welded prior to this (it shows haha). I simply always thought that having a splitter was very very important and I was gonna have one whatever it took. I also knew absolutely the mill was using the same principle and there was almost no way it was going to fail.! If you do want to build one ,i can offer some assistance.
  8. Matt, thnx for your reply. yes, I looked high and low for the crank style splitter and just could not find anything under the 1000 mark. My splitter cost me 140 (and lots of fun making the frame and blade) and has more than the capacity for my needs. Do you mind me asking exactly what splitter you got? i love the fact that the blade is simply great and maintains its razor edge for a long time. (Sandvik 14c28n steel) These machines , are mostly about the blade (assuming all else lines up and is solid). The main steel used in them would usually be D2 steel which was great but maybe not the best at push cutting because of the larger carbides . The Sandvik is able to be honed to a polished razor edge since the grain structure is very fine. i have attached a pic of the blade. Yes the very thin splits are what I really need and this will also split the softer bubble leather. Because the blade blanks of this size are not very expensive, I am about to test Cpm 10v steel just to see what can be improved.
  9. Could you post a link for the same hand cranked type that would be available to buy.? The only ones I saw when doing months of research were the strap end pull models that serve a completely different purpose. These were already more than the mill.
  10. Just had a great idea to use bicycle inner tube to stretch around the roller/s. Should give even more grip.
  11. Ahh, in that case for the type of person at risk of this,, my just mopped floor or a dinner knife might pose a bigger risk. There is an age limit
  12. Great question LetterT. This mill comes with two ultra smooth rollers top and bottom already installed. They work fine, however I wanted more grip so I tried the extra rollers with texture to see how significant the improved grip would be. I have left a smooth one at the bottom and changed the top one which has actually two different textures for embossing silver etc. The rubber roller would not be sturdy enough to keep the leather perfectly level. These machines depend heavily of high tension and rigidity. Easier still would be simply turning the leather upside down which works perfectly fine as well. I see the Landis hand cranked has a grooved roller at the bottom which would be ideal as they are the experts and the inspiration for this project. I will look for one of these or simply machine grooves in the existing one. So to answer your question, it will not mark it unless one wants it to (another creative tangent there) as you can simply split it with the top layer against the bottom smooth roller. Thnx for the feedback. ps. yes this is perfect for watch straps.!!
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