CWR

If weight is a concern I would shorten it at the front to an inch and half. Depending on your rigging rings you could shorten the front bottom down to 3" and still have the latigos dropped down enough to not be under your leg. Just some ideas, hope they help. CW

That is really a nice rig Ron. Might take me 2 years to get one carved like that. Then it probably still wouldn't look that good. CW

Ron, I think you did a fantastic job on that saddle. The one thing that really jumps out at me is the placement of the screw at the fork. I would move that up and forward. It looks like your leg might rub on it now. It could even cause some interference with the stirrup leathers. I like to put them about he center of the fork and about 3/4 to one inch down. Once again great job. You got your next tree ordered yet? CW

Randy, I don't believe you will need to clean the surface before oiling. After oiling the soap probably won't show. You do need to go over those edges again with the canvas. They ought to look like glass when you are done. I would not add anymore soap just water and rub with the canvas. That rub rag ought to burn your hand by the time you finish. CW

When you get your side, take a straight edge and even up the top along the back. Cut your stirrup leathers from there. Start at the butt and cut towards the neck. I always punch my hole in the butt end and attach the front end to the leg of the fenders. Stretch them like Big Sioux said. Edge and oil the leathers before punching your holes. This will help in delaying the holes pulling out. CW

I believe the main function for the hobble is to act as a"ramp" for the stirrup leather. So it slides over the dee making for easier forward movement of the fender and leather. CW

Thanks for the kind words Ron. CW

Bob, The scolding remark was purely tongue in cheek. I know you meant it to help and it did. It is those kind of critiques I look forward to when I post on here. Like iron sharpens iron,one man sharpens another. I sincerely appreciate it and want you to keep on "scolding" me if the need arises. Thanks, CW

Bruce, He didn't learn anything new. LOL. Maybe just a review of past vocabulary lessons. Joel and Josh thanks for the compliments. Billy, Ruff outs are pretty popular in this part of the world. I like them myself. Even if you start out with a slickout saddle it turns to ruff out before long in our brush. The wood post horn though is still pretty rare down here. Thanks for looking. That doesn't happen by accident very often! Bob, I'm not very smart but I have a good memory. I still remember that scolding you gave me for not having my jockeys and skirts lined up some years ago. It's something I pay particular attention to now. I want to thank you again for that and your very kind comments now. Thanks, CW

Thanks Bruce. I used a combination of yours and Troy West's techniques to cover the swells. It's going to a boy who makes his living out of a saddle so I hope to get some good feedback from him. Thanks, CW

Finished this one up on Saturday. 15 1/2 Lewellen with wood post horn 13" swells and semi round skirts. Tree came from Sonny Felkins at Quality MFG. These are the biggest swells I have covered with no welt. I know that's not much of a feat for some of you guys but I was real tickled to get it done. Good honest critiques are always welcome. Thanks, CW

That's an interesting idea Billy. Cool saddle. I bet it was a challenge. I sewed everything by hand for a couple of years until I could afford a machine. It was good experience but I am sure gald I have the machine now. CW

I don't think you will have any problems Randy. Machine needles are a lot bigger than you sewing awl probably is. Good luck, CW

Randy, If I were doing it, I would cut that loose thread off and pull a few stitches back on each side then hand sew starting two holes back from the missing stitches and go until I had overstitched two holes on the other side. I would hand stitch only because if it is the seat jockey it would be too awkward to get it in the machine. Should take you about 15 minutes. CW

I use 3/4 at he front and 1/2 at the back in the hand hole. CW

CuttingHorse, When you say suede I assume you mean it is a roughout saddle. If that is the case you can oil it just like a slick out saddle.Just remember the rough out will take the oil faster. Go slow you don't want to over do it.First though it probably needs a good cleaning. Just use glycerine saddle soap and lots of water to get the dirt and sweat off. Water won't hurt leather if you oil it after it is wet. As far as taking it apart, the more you break it down the better the job you can do. Just remember how everything goes back together. You might want to leave the stirrup leathers over the bars as they can be difficult to get back in. The lexol will be fine or pure neatsfoot oil. The neatsfoot will darken it more. I use a combination of both. Good luck, CW

They don't come any better than Bruce. He is a great guy and I have never gotten anything from him that I wasn't tickled with. CW

I agree with Ken. I relined one a while back and the skirts were plugged with some kind of plastic. I would run away like my skin was on fire. There are plenty of good trees out there. CW

I'm with Bob on this. I use those rings for inskirt and flat plate riggings. The same amount of leather is used for both riggings where the rings are attached. If it is going to get jerked out of the inskirt it is just as likely to get jeked out of the flat plate. I don't think it will hurt anything to add the rawhide but I don't think it is necessary either. CW

Randy, It looks a little high to me. What distance is the bottom of the plate to the top of the bar? I usually like mine 6 1/2" below the bar pad. Just a rule of thumb. Others do it differetly. If you get it to high you get a lump from the latigos on top of the skirt. CW

Be talking to you soon. CW

Thank you for taking your time to look into it. Look forward to hearing from you.

Stefan, They are item # c5101Harness or belt awl blades. Thanks, CW

Thanks Stefan. I cant remember their numbering system but I would like to have some in the 2 1/2 size. I use them sewing cantle bindings so need the length. Let me know when you have them and I will place my order. Thanks again, CW

Stefan, Do you carry John James sewing awls? I used to get them from Campbell Randell but they no longer carry them. I think they are far superior to CS Osbornes. Thanks, CW