Jump to content

Wyowally

Members
  • Content Count

    78
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Wyowally

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 02/15/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Torrington Wyoming
  • Interests
    Vintage sewing machines;Camping, hunting, fishing.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    sheaths
  • Interested in learning about
    sewing machines
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    web searching

Recent Profile Visitors

2,966 profile views
  1. Here is about how thick I can sew veg tan without modding. Changed stitch length for the pic, it does go longer.
  2. I also have one, the "10 bearing" model. Tinkerers delight is an appropriate term. I am not a highly skilled leatherworker. If I had devoted the tinkering time it took to get the machine working to my satisfaction to learning leatherwork instead I would been expert. As it is, I AM expert on these machines now. Not a very marketable skill. kgg and I can relate on this I believe. For those interested or with the machine, the ORGAN brand DPX35D leather point needles work very well. Chuck123wapati - fellow Wyo person - if I can advise you somehow on the machine let me know! Pic is a coozie I made with it just playing with scraps. Not ready for prime time.
  3. There are FB groups dealing with industrial machines. One in particular focuses on mechanics. Search FB.
  4. No skinny v-belt experience, but using the rough surface urethane drive belt material that you heat weld has worked well for me. If I screw one up I'm out about 50 cents..
  5. He did really nice work on this. Everyone's experience, terrain and horses are different. I rode pretty far back in some pretty rough country and helped an outfitter friend for a number of years. All that called for carrying expensive rifles in scabbards, sometimes not knowing if the horse would act up or not. My only comments aren't about the superb workmanship, but more towards security and protection. - our preferred attachment method was on the off side, butt forward, scope on top. If the rifle has a long sling that won't shorten or tuck then there is always the chance of the rifle getting yanked out in thick timber. Scope up, because they aren't delicate but still vulnerable if the weight of the rifle is resting on it and the mounts. The fender over the scabbard. Rubbing the horse shouldn't happen. - we preferred wider attachment straps and I know the OP was just showing it on the horse. The straps hold the weight and though they are doubled only need to break in one spot. Even so, shorter straps attached to the cinch rings are stronger and more secure. Even good horses blow up, and if they do it without a rider with those long straps attached somewhere on the opposite side and rifle in the scabbard it is going to flop all over the place and likely come off. Also don't like seeing the front strap coming right across the neck, even if it is on top of the blanket/pad. I know it is a resurrected old thread. I also know that other people get by just fine with their methods. This is what worked reliably for us.
  6. I horseback hunt and use a regular saddle scabbard when mounted. I tried but don't like any of the extra wide at the shouder slings because they make it harder to get the rifle in and out. I made up a sling with the leather slit sliding strap keeper and 1 1/4" wide strap. Then on the back side where it rides on my shoulder I attached two parallel strips of leather about 8" long - where others have put suede. The strips are rough side out and have a 3/8" gap between. They're attached with a single row of stitching. The theory being the edges of the strips will catch and hold from slipping better. They can twist a little, and the gap between can allow some of the coat or jacket fabric to go up between for a little more friction. Also added a thumb strap. Works OK so far, but haven't tested with different jackets. More pictures if anyone wants them.
  7. A 15-91 is a sought-after machine by the vintage Singer people with good reason. The direct drive motor is powerful. Instructions for complete motor rebuilds are out there for those who want to take it on. The question was does it draw power when just sitting there plugged in - no, it shouldn't, just like most other domestic pedal controlled machines. It COULD if there is a problem with the pedal, cords, or the light or motor wiring. If it does, I would suspect the pedal first. Power doesn't get to the motor except through the pedal. The way Singer designed their connectors makes it challenging to rewire and get correct, and you never know if Bubba worked on it and screwed something up.
  8. Thanks, suzelle! I struggled mostly with setting and adjusting the eccentric on the main upper shift that adjusts foot lift and foot coordination. I even bought a new eccentric, because the function and adjustment was not clear from the information I could find. I did not need it as the original was OK but missing a couple screws. All good now.
  9. Decals from singerdecals.com - not exactly as originals but from a set they sell for 'Singer 31-Monogram decals for commercial restorations". 20 bucks when I got them. And thanks! All my questions were answered here and on Uwe's videos.
  10. I found refurbishing my 111W155 a very rewarding project. Adjustments made sense and parts all robust. Resource documents are out there. I think you'll be happy with it and looking around for things to do with it!!
  11. I have seen some comments on brushed vs. brushless servos but have no experience. Not sure what the true differences are in terms of super slow speed running vs. torque. Some say brushless is the only way to go, yet my brushed CSM550-1 does everything I want on a Singer 111W155 without needing a speed reducer. I did go with a smaller motor pulley. YMMV
  12. I only use the 2nd one on the left when I wind bobbins. Don't have to change settings for either one that way.
  13. I know, but the truth is you are becoming an expert on your machine in particular! Just so you know, in case you didn't, there are about 5 military manuals floating around with various editions. A couple of them are better than others. I built a redneck knee lifting apparatus that works great, but don't recommend it. Bob, Wiz, or someone recommended one on here quite a while ago. It was advertised for a Juki I believe, but worked out good. I do suggest getting rid of (if yours has it) the lifter piece that goes down from the machine that has a little flat oval at the tip. One way or another, a system with a roller right at that point works smoother with less effort.
×
×
  • Create New...