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About Wyowally

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  • Birthday 02/15/1947

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Torrington Wyoming
  • Interests
    Vintage sewing machines;Camping, hunting, fishing.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
  • Interested in learning about
    sewing machines
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    web searching

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  1. Since I'm into backtacking w/o reverse, there's going to be a lot more foot lifting going on!
  2. I've been working on my Singer, trying to make the knee lifter work more smoothly with less effort. I've seen some other brands which have some design and mechanical components that work really well. Friend has a Chandler that works beautifully. Mine came with a rod attached to the bellcrank at the top, but nothing at the bottom. I see being sold a part #508210 "rod roller which has a female threaded attachment. Did some of these machines have that attached? The lifter itself has a flat oval plate designed to push the machine's lifter rod up, but provide separation when tilting the machine head back. I'm thinking the roller was attached to lessen the friction between the two, as the tip of the machine rod needs to move on that plate slightly. Willing to try anything.
  3. Wondering did this get resolved? Thread pulling out of the bobbin case properly sounds good. Different things happen when under power. Curious if stitching looks identical when turning the wheel by hand. Something is pulling that upper thread too much or making it turn loose. During the cycle, does the foot coming up against the presser foot spring, causing the spring to bend - also disengage the upper tension? If the upper tension mechanism is set so that it is touchy that could be kicking the discs loose. This is a pretty far out there possibility, but can happen.
  4. Beautiful work, Elizabeth! Curious what paint and other products you used. I used Duplicolor wheel paint, satin. Constabulary - decals or not is a personal thing. I like to have minimal decals and don't care if they are perfect matches for what the factory did. I'm not doing a museum restore. Looks like this is Singer restore week here Constabulary, you're probably aware, but here we have people doing "de-badging" - removing all the bling, badges, extra anything on the exterior of their vehicles.
  5. Don, I've been priming, painting, and decal setting. I didn't have the plugs, but have lot's of foam in different densities. That's what I used and it was easy to stuff in the holes. Almost done, a few things to go.
  6. Don - the screws came out using my custom ground screwdriver tip - after soaking with my mixture of chemicals. The wheel also came off easily, tapping near the hub with a plastic body hammer. All I wanted to do was paint the inside of the wheel! I have used all the methods you outlined except the impact jack hammer you illustrated. One thing I use not mentioned is called an embossing heat gun. They are just a miniature heat gun, sort of like the hot air version of a mini torch and handy for small places. Thanks for following up. I'm getting ready to paint it. Trying to decide whether to go shiny black with decals or industrial wrinkley.
  7. Uwe - the old parts book copy from Superior SM Co.. I'll try to attach it here. One of the military manuals also explains that models for a number of years are like mine and the adjustable eccentric was standard. The eccentrics are still sold and available. Then later Singer changed to the banana slot. Mine isn't a special version, just older than what what you've seen. The parts book illustration shows the unit pretty well. I'm still researching. Parts book is too big, won't attach.https://www.supsew.com/download/Singer/Singer 111W155.pdf
  8. Singer part number 240744 as in this illustration from the Singer parts book:
  9. Pictures tomorrow Uwe. This thread: Presser Lift Eccentric Assembly/Disassembly help need Singer 211G165 - Leather Sewing Machines - Leatherworker.net is about a similar problem on a 211G165. That eccentric has a collar and spring which the 111w155 does not - a feature evidently borrowed from the stitch length eccentric. I'm not desperate - my feet are lifting equally almost 1/4" now.
  10. I got a lot of help here with my original list of questions. I'm down to trying to understand this eccentric and it's design, parts, and operation. I've seen the picture of the grooved interior on Superior's catalog. I've fiddled with mine, and not knowing anything have been able to change lift somewhat for both feet. Read the manuals and looked at the illustrations. On mine, it appears there is a blank hole, then a threaded hole with no screw, a smaller headed screw just below the larger headed worm screw. Thinking I need a set screw in that empty threaded hole. When I loosen the smaller screw the whole eccentric spins on the shaft. I can change lift (unpredictably) by turning the large screw. Somewhat. The large screw will also turn with the set screw tight but not sure it changes anything. A description of how this works mechanically would be great! I'm thinking one screw should hold it on the shaft and stay tight, the other screw loosens the two pieces of the eccentric so the one with the worm threading can move or act as a stop for adjusting. I might be over-thinking. I'm loving this and thinking about a total restore. The paint on the inside of the balance wheel is flaky, but no luck so far with those set screws. Done overnight PB Blaster and some heat so far, custom ground a long reach screwdriver tip. Don't have to do it, just want to. Help appreciated!
  11. Sloop, I'll have to measure it in my shop, 3 miles away. It is pretty wide. The BV was marketed as a 'tailor's machine' according to some sources. I think the throat may be a little wider than the Singer 111w155.
  12. Don and Bob, Thanks for your advice and comments. I've nearly got it where I want. Only a few thoughts. Back to the foot lift eccentric. Mine has a set screw, a worm adjuster screw, plus two holes - one threaded and one not. I found a place on the shaft where the collar held by the "set" screw seems happiest. I believe but haven't confirmed that the worm screw is designed to be adjusted without loosening any set screw. At least on mine it does and I can regulate the height of each foot during the sewing cycle from zero to nearly a quarter inch. According to the text in Singer's materials, this "ability to adjust presser height for both feet allows the user to change height to match thicker or thinner materials". Don't know what the other holes are yet. This whole process should not be confused with adjusting the lift using the hand or knee lifter. Don, you've gone to a lot of effort to help me along - appreciated! As I said it is sewing pretty well. I'm still puzzled by what I call check spring bounce and it may all be normal and natural. When the upper thread is brought around by the hook and slips off, it goes by the opener just fine. About the time it is pulled out of view near the bobbin case tab, ready to pull the bobbin thread, the check spring bounces up maybe an eighth inch. Maybe it is just reacting to the stitch getting pulled tight. Probably. Bob, I understand about some places being tighter than others during the wheel rotation cycle. It is working fine. What I've seen on mine is if the foot pressure is screwed down to mid range AND that foot lift height during sewing is way higher than it needs to be for material thickness (like I described in the eccentric adjuster above) - then the machine has more resistance for a longer period of time raising the spring more than it needs to. I have never been able to decipher old illustrations of oiling points. I use the obvious openings, search for wicks, and drip oil on every joint and bushing area I can find. Super Lube on gears. Wondering what others do. I have friends who accuse me of over-analyzing things, researching too much, and reaching incorrect conclusions. Not sure how they arrived at that conclusion.
  13. I haven't found a reference for positioning the lifter eccentric on the shaft. I just kept turning it and setting the setscrew and trying it until it seemed to give me free turning and good motion. Then the worm screw does change operating foot height. Then adjust the exterior pinch screw so there was no interference with the rear presser bar. Tom
  14. Wow, Don, thanks for the information and the catalog! What a resource - just spent 30 minutes looking at illustrated, labeled parts. That helps tremendously. I have adjusted the case opener without knowing - case? what case? what is getting opened? - The relationship between the opener, the tab on the hook base, and the needle plate slot were unknown to me. I just moved the opener to where it worked! Will investigate adjust and polish today. The little "hitch" I feel when turning the hand wheel through the cycle could well be tied to that. What I did notice earlier was some thread hesitation as it came across the back corner of the bobbin case latch itself. Slight, but there. Will polish that today too. I am not hesitant to polish and smooth things. Often, I will use a Dremel with the finest sanding disc available, nearly worn out, slow speed, for shining and polishing. Also use various grades of wet-or-dry paper up to 2000. If something really needs shined up I use Flitz polish on it. (Another gunsmithing common product). Even use fine grit diamond products sometimes. The fishhook sharpeners will touch up a needle in a pinch without shortening it. Thanks again.
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