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About Wyowally

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  • Birthday 02/15/1947

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    Torrington Wyoming
  • Interests
    Vintage sewing machines;Camping, hunting, fishing.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
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    sewing machines
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    web searching

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  1. I have seen some comments on brushed vs. brushless servos but have no experience. Not sure what the true differences are in terms of super slow speed running vs. torque. Some say brushless is the only way to go, yet my brushed CSM550-1 does everything I want on a Singer 111W155 without needing a speed reducer. I did go with a smaller motor pulley. YMMV
  2. I only use the 2nd one on the left when I wind bobbins. Don't have to change settings for either one that way.
  3. I know, but the truth is you are becoming an expert on your machine in particular! Just so you know, in case you didn't, there are about 5 military manuals floating around with various editions. A couple of them are better than others. I built a redneck knee lifting apparatus that works great, but don't recommend it. Bob, Wiz, or someone recommended one on here quite a while ago. It was advertised for a Juki I believe, but worked out good. I do suggest getting rid of (if yours has it) the lifter piece that goes down from the machine that has a little flat oval at the tip. One way or another, a system with a roller right at that point works smoother with less effort.
  4. I'm enjoying following your experience with the 111W155 because it is very much like my own last year. Won't overload you or the forum with details, as most of them were posted here anyway. Just want to say I love the machine, it has been really worth it, and more than meets my needs. I even repainted it and installed new decals, because it is not leaving here. My most perplexing questions involved the internal feed lifting eccentric - to the point I bought a new one (not needed!) just so I could understand what it does and how it is supposed to work. Have fun!
  5. I only learned recently that one of the advantages of brushless motors is they make considerably more low rpm torque than the brushed ones. Even so, the brushed servo I have on my 111w155 with 45mm pulley works well enough for me in terms of power and low speed running. I'm not sure what my machine pulley size is compared to yours, but it looks similar. My parts stores had the size and series belt like Wiz mentioned to you. I felt like I was the resident current expert also after going through my machine, but I am not. There are a couple of them here who are lightyears beyond me. I only need to run my servo on the 3rd setting on the dial to get what I want. I have pondered a reducer but the good ones cost more than my servo!
  6. Clockwise it must go. I had all my timings and relationships out of whack, probably 180 degrees or half of a cycle. Thought I was stuck in reverse when I knew I had no reverse! Hope you get it figured out.
  7. If they started a forum for "first time attempts" yours would be one the better ones. I'm not sharing mine......
  8. I had to learn about the timing adjustments underneath on the right side. On my back with extra lights to shine up in there. If I recall there is a pinch screw to loosen, then a screwdriver through an access hole on the back right side to rotate the screw freed up by the pinch screw. Our resident patcher expert ought to show up soon. Arrow 1 points to the pinch screw. Arrow 2 points at the nut that needs loosened. Then the screw can be turned from the back. Kind of an eccentric positioner if I remember right.
  9. Almost every service manual I have shows very precise measurements for these settings. Some of the manufacturers made up some special tools and spacers, and they don't instruct us on anything except using those tools. I haven't been a jersey sewing person, more like Cordura and canvas for me. What I have seen when checking timing on the machines brought to me is needle eye-to-hook point being off. Sometimes that is hook rotation, but more often it is needle height. If the owner confesses about needle strikes or breakage I really suspect needle height. The little screws used to hold the needle bar in place are pretty wimpy on many machines - enough so I speculate about them being intentionally weak to help prevent damage from needle strikes.
  10. I guess I'm not real concerned with scarf vs. no-scarf differences of 1/4 of a millimeter. I try to discover the adjustment procedure for each machine. I choose the needle I want to use and try it out, maybe watch the action and relationship hook to needle. I have not measured that gap in 4 or 5 years. I do use a tiny LED light and get where I can see things. I get the needle close without touching. It works. BTW, I helped a lady with a commercial long-arm quilting setup. That manufacturer in their own tuning videos, want the hook to just contact the needle so it makes a tick sound! Works for them, and it means to me that the hook just bumping isn't necessarily a bad thing. Nice info to know, but I will never use it.
  11. If you're not familiar with our forum, you should know that you just heard from the recognized authority here for such things - Mr. Wizcrafts! No need to look further or wait for additional answers, IMHO.
  12. The bobbin case opener is the common label in use for that j-hook shaped thingy. Page 15 in the USNavy manual (Wiz gave you in a link) describes exactly how I adjust it. Curious what manual you have Sugar? I just spent a half hour trying to find a number for the needle bar set screw (maybe a "clamping" screw) with no success yet. Many suppliers sell the needle bar with the thread guide and needle screw. Maybe one of the real experts can help.
  13. Great answer, Wiz! Every screw on mine was buggered a little, so fixed them up. I'd only suggest that the needle clamp screw can also get worn to where getting it truly snug is not easy or obvious. Fix if possible or replace is the way to go - needles can slip down or get pulled down when tight in material - like 3/8" thick stuff. The "little hook" must be the hook-shaped bobbin case opener. Those manuals explain adjusting it too. Amazing that a machine with adjustments close to spot on will run for years without issues!
  14. Cynthia, I acquired my 111W155 last spring, and posted a number of questions on here. Sometimes the answers take a day or two to show up, but I've gotten great advice. Some of the manuals from our armed services are pretty good. I have been part of a FB group "Vintage Industrial Sewing Machines". Several of those manuals are in their 'Files' section. Some of the best videos are on YT done by Uwe Grosse. He is also on this website. The Consew 225 is almost a direct clone and most of parts and adjustments are the same.The finger distance you asked about changes with rotation of the system, so needs to be adjusted accordingly. It is called the bobbin case opener lever. If you turn the handwheel towards you so that the square block the opener is screwed to has moved as far right as possible, with the screw loosened slightly you should be able to fit a couple thicknesses of paper right there where your arrow is pointing. Always turn it over by hand when adjusting this, you don't want it to bind up under power ever. Might need a little more or less adjustment after that. Hope that helps. The cog you asked about is confusing. It would help if you had a picture from a little farther out, but also the end view. The safety clutch is normally held tight to the shaft by one or two set screws, so it can't move to the side. The manuals and videos show that pretty well.
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