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Wyowally

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About Wyowally

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Torrington Wyoming
  • Interests
    Vintage sewing machines;Camping, hunting, fishing.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    sheaths
  • Interested in learning about
    sewing machines
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    web searching

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  1. Thanks, Bob. I did get the tensioner. Seems like someone lost the internal pin and cobbled one out of a nail. It was truly a nail. I made my own from an extra punch and got it the right length, but did bend the tab as you suggested. Got most of my other concerns taken care of for now. The long rod that gets pushed to the tensioner was worn. I forged the ends down and smoothed them up and gained 2mm or so, that helped, too. Whoever installed the knee lifter didn't take into account the arm going up into the machine needs direct vertical force to overcome the presser spring. They had it off to the side and trying to push from an angle. The last thing today I just kept rotating the lifter eccentric on the shaft a little at a time until things came together OK. Location of each pinch screw clamp for the foot shafts seems to be critical as well, but not much tells you where they go. Loving this project.
  2. Hoping for some answers soon, no replies yet
  3. I acquired one of these just a week ago. It is my first of this type, but I'm not new to machines at all. I've hit all the resources, copied files, read and re-read. Our forum here seems to have the most knowledge. So far I've cleaned up, lubed, checked and reset adjustments. Cleaned up the locked up stitch selector and reset it. Does what it should now. Has a Consew csm550-1 servo motor. I have it stitching pretty well. I have an old Necchi BV with clutch motor that I went through and it sews well. It will start smooth and go pretty slow, I need that. On the Singer I didn't like the fine line between brake release and power on, so removed the brake shoe. Also installed a smaller motor pulley. All good. The questions: The manual lifter barely disengages the thread tension. I think all the pieces are there as there is some movement of the pin coming out that engages the tension unit itself. Just not much. What is normal, what can be done to improve the pin travel? I've watched Uwe's video, but his machine isn't identical. Next: I should have taken a pic, but at the bottom of the rear presser bar is a clamp that the foot lifter rides on. The clamp is held by a small screw accessed from the rear. How do you determine where to set the clamp, once you've moved it without marking original location? Finally, I have tried to eliminate slop in the knee lifter mechanism. When I remove it all, then the rear foot doesn't have adequate pressure on a couple layers of vinyl. Pretty sure I have no force from the lifter, just zero slop. Still puzzling over that. One more: the tensioner check spring doesn't move smoothly, it hops around as the arm is lifting. I think the very end of the outer part of the spring is wanting to rotate and snagging where it rides on the hub of the controller disc. Maybe. Actual tensioner action is smooth, discs clean. Nearly all the screws on this old machine show marks from poor-fitting screwdrivers - making me question the previous work and forcing me to learn and re-do all the common settings. Perfect! No better way to learn a machine. I'm almost there.
  4. I tried something I didn't see talked about here. The grease sort of worked, but even with trying to align and adjust things perfectly, I was still getting an objectionable gronking and groaning sound when trying to start smoothly and go slow. Not knowing the wisdom of it, I went ahead and took a 150 grit sanding disc and slipped it between the clutch face and the flywheel surface then eased them together just enough to feel the drag from the disc. Flipped it 180 degrees and did the other surface as well. All I can tell you is the noise is gone and it all works better. I've got the pedal at an angle that works for me and the clutch brake engages the way I want when I back off. Wyowally
  5. Eric, Would you share what the special grease is, or where to get it? I've seen references from everything like Vaseline to white lithium, and some saying "No, no, it will wreck the facings" to "No problem, white lithium makes it a smoother transition". Wyowally
  6. Mine is a one-holer. I'd sure like to see some of the original instructions to new workers using these machines. We all think it is bad to slip a clutch because of our vehicle experience. The factory workers weren't sewing with these things running wide open constantly were they? My belief was these sewing machine clutches were designed to slip and for the clutch facings to be expendable items. I know I'm liking mine the way it is.
  7. I was chasing this topic here and elsewhere. I tried something I haven't seen mentioned - I just moved the pedal attachment point from the top to a little .less than halfway down the right side. Easy experiment, pedal must move through twice as much arc, sweet spot for slow and backstitching easier to find and maintain. I'm still learning and getting more comfortable with greater speed, but this helps a lot for now. Wyowally
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