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About 480volt

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  1. If they’re like this… I’ve set a few of these, I like them but they are difficult to work with. The post is short, good for maybe 10oz and still leave enough to peen over. The washer is not an interference fit like copper belt burrs, and the post isn’t tapered much anyway. You need to make something to support the head without damage. I’ve never used any of my setting tools on the post, just a ball peen hammer. The trick is solidly supporting the stud without damaging the finish. I’ve drilled a shallow hole in a copper plate and then beat in a sacrificial stud to clean up the fit, with good results. If I had to do a bunch, I’d buy a ball end mill with a similar radius and mill a hole deep enough to support the whole stud. You need to hold down the washer as you initially peen the post, and you’re never going to form a pretty, domed head- you just want to expand the post and then work the edges with the ball end of the hammer to round them over. You can also try substituting copper belt burrs, if you can find a size that will grip the post. I’ve used lots of brass round head rivets from RJ Leahy, using burrs I hand cut with a Whitney punch. In this case, a cheapo Tandy setting tool, placed upside down in a vise, supported the heads well.
  2. Appreciate your foresight in doing this. Kudos to whoever gets the thankless task of moderating it.
  3. If you can get the shaft out, some machine shops can use a process called EDM to disintegrate the broken Allen wrench and bolt. I don’t know the lower limit on bolt size that this can be done on, and the cost may be more than the part is worth. I’ve had it done a couple times over the years, typically because I broke off an easy out, and there was no alternative. Can’t hurt to get a quote.
  4. Hi Kristina, thanks for the suggestion, I took a look at their site but I don’t think they have what I am looking for. Half tanned leather is only tanned on the exterior, the core remains rawhide. Said to wet form well and then become extremely stiff when it dries. It seems to be a Scandinavian product, or at least is the go-to material for Scandi knife sheaths.
  5. Thanks for the link, I haven’t done any braiding more sophisticated than 4-5 strand for handles and straps, this looks inspirational for more complex work. Now if there were only more hours in a day...
  6. I’m looking for a source for half tanned leather for a sword sheath replacement. A little bit of research turns up Roden in Michigan and Brisa Knifemaking in Finland as potential sources. Anyone order from them? Brisa seems to have no problem shipping to my location in California. My understanding of this material is it wet forms well, and then the rawhide core becomes very stiff when dried. Anyone here have hands-on experience working with it? Does it take dye similar to other veg tan? Any input would be appreciated.
  7. It’d be a long shot, but you could ask Bruce Johnson if he has any parts that match. Hard to tell from an on-line photo, but the crack doesn’t appear recent. Is there enough material left to just use it as it is?
  8. At some point, can’t say when, the activity feed started displaying “so and so changed their profile photo” Some of these user’s profiles say they haven’t visited since 2014. I don’t see any way to block it in settings. Obviously just a minor nuisance, but why does this happen?
  9. There must be a few Tandy employees who frequent this website. Can any of you shed a little light on this situation without running afoul of a NDA?
  10. Just to keep the terminology straight, it’s knurling on lathe turned pieces, done with a rotary knurling tool that displaces material and impresses a pattern. Checkering is done with a file and is a metal removal process.
  11. This is not exactly what you’re asking but the knife on the right is a Henley bought at the beginning of 2018. The one on the left is from a Tandy beginner kit. Don’t remember what was specified regarding the knurling on the Henley, but it feels fine. I don’t own a Barry King.
  12. I’m going to be a little more direct than LatigoAmigo. Maybe the “best” contributors (whatever that means) are busy, or haven’t logged in for a while, or didn’t want to answer questions that you could answer yourself with diligent searching. It astounds me that professionals, and I don’t mean people making side money selling holsters and stuff to their buddies, who are willing to share their time and techniques and talk openly about their businesses and marketing. If you just google “leatherworker marketing” you will find a thread that stretched over years discussing people’s approach to leatherwork as a business. So do your own legwork. If you can’t at least put that much effort into it, you surely aren’t going to make any money at this. I know I don’t, but I never intended to, so maybe my opinion is just more “crap”.
  13. Going way, way off topic: A Cincinnati Bickford 21” Super Service square column drill showed up on CL close to me, for not much more than scrap price. I really had to talk myself down from buying it. Would have had to pay riggers to move it because I really wouldn’t be comfortable laying a 3000 lb machine on its side to get under the door header. Not to mention, I’ll never need a machine with a 60 rpm slow speed and MT 5 tooling. This picture is a similar machine in 28”
  14. Don’t start collecting machine tools. The car winds up outside in no time
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