coreysyms

Thanks for the kind words Don. It's not a wood working chisel it's a leather chisel I only really use for slits and button collars or other tight small straight line cuts I need. $5 From Springfield leather. Noting special about it pick one up http://springfieldleather.com/42606/Chisel%2CLeather%2CStraight%2C15/

Brass

Being a hobbyist I can't afford to carry multiple specialized tools so I always use a round punch the size of the neck not the top of the thumb press button and then punch my straight line with a 1/2" straight chisel putting the edge of the straight punch at the back of the first hole, then at the top of the newly punched straight line I punch my smallest hole punch at the top. I wet the large hole and use either a pointed slicker or just my scratch all and slick the inside of the edge of the large hole. The small hole helps prevent any unnecessary creases or tears. Here is a pic of a key belt ring Ive been carrying for a while.

x2 for buckle guy

I use a touch of neetsfoot oil compound on the flesh side before working if I know my leather has been sitting for a while. Also. I always damped the leather before I dye, but I'm using Tandy water based dyes. Keeps the splotching down to min. Then finish with Otterwax leather salve and oil, always comes out buttery soft for me with even color.

I have always used Tiger Thread, 0.8 to 1.0 is a good all around size. Variety of colors. It's flat braided waxed poly. Super Strong. You can find samples or full spools on Etsy pretty easy. Just search for shops in the US for faster shipping.

@mikeg @kiwican thanks guys! @25b I never said I invented the idea...

You know, sometimes it's not the nice new leather thing, but the old favorite reimagined and repurposed that people love. Had a buddy that wanted a wallet, he loved baseball so I asked him to "sacrifice" his old baseball glove for the wallet. I was able to pull out quite a bit of leather and piece together the wallet using a baseball stitch. Lined it with canvas and he now has something that is his and only his. It may not "look" the nicest, cause man did he use that glove, but for the old ball player now retired it's a sentimental favorite.

@hilton1 Not sure what they will give you for it but the horse harness folks will buy your machine, or post here, or eBay.

@hilton1, go to this site, http://www.horsenharness.com/SINGER.html and get the phone number, call them and talk with someone about it, they are the most knowledgeable people about the old singer 29k parts I know, and they have helped me out in the past. Also, they have the original owners manual and that helped me a great deal with getting mine to run. I thought I needed more parts too, but it turns out, I was just threading it wrong! I ordered the threading wire and mine runs like a top now. Pretty much all the 29k- (whatever-s) are interchangeable I do know that, and all the models barely changed throughout most of its life, I used parts for my 1908 29-4 from a 1927 29k-58. Also, this guy did a bit of a walk through blog getting his 29-4 running, and i used his pattern to make a flat wood table like his for flat leather work. http://rickaverill.com/scope-covers-picture/singer-29-4/ Good luck!

Not detrimental at all to do a bunch of one off custom work, but I would say you should focus on your brand, and what it is you do and how you do it in each product. I have made everything from jeans and shirts to toll rolls and woman's bags but they all look like I did it, my style, people come to me because they like my style. Starting out, you should try different techniques and styles and methods, but once you start seeing a cohesiveness across your items in style and construction build on that. You want to have something to go back to, a mantra, or mission statement, something more than "quality made blah blah". Something more specific. When someone wants something custom done stick to it. Say ok, I can make that for you, let me sketch it out, show it to them, and stick to your guns, don't let them change it all around, this is what you do and how you do it and they came to you because they liked what you did in the past. You will find what items you really like working on and by then have a your own take to it. And looking back at the things you made you will see it all make sense. It's not about making a leather item, it's about the leather item YOU made.

what about a making a leather washer instead of using metal eyelets

Table top edge rollers work really well, I don't use one cause I just don't do enough inventory, but I know of a lot of small batch guys that swear by it, it looks like the thing restaurants use to butter bread, like this one, can't speak to if the Tandy one is crap... or if you should look to another brand. http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/product/table-top-edge-dyeing-roller-3010-00.aspx

I don't think your sewing technique is the issue. I always wet the leather with water before bending. Never had an issue with cracking or wrinkling. Of course if you bend in the opposite direction of the finished side, it will wrinkle. I don't machine leather much, but when I do I use a walking foot, seems to work well for me. try the water, that should help you out.

I really like that inside pocket too, what distance holes were you running for stitching? Also, if you don't mind me asking, what brand hole chisel punch did you use? Looks really nice, great work.

this is pretty cool, seems like the smaller something is the harder it is to work on, you did a nice job with it.

Thoroughbred and Springfield leathers carry pull ups. Thoroughbred has a few really nice pull ups now

Thanks @windrider30 for the kind words. I could see with 2/3oz total weight a saddle stitch could pull through. But the bag has several layers sewn together most with veg tan on each side like the top or the inside canvas being penetrated. I figure that's 6-8 oz total sewn together conservatively.

Just finished up this bag for a customer. My first women item. She wanted a tote style business bag but she may need it as a carry-all. I built this one differently than other bags. This one is lined with a horsehair canvas and top layered with a beautiful purple Japanese Bemberg. The Bemberg is stronger than silk and breathes better than cotton allowing the leather air. This was a steal from how custom handmade men's suit jackets are made. I borrowed this technique from my clothing days and it really worked out nice. The bag has a nice structure to it with out using heavy or stiff leather. I tried bag stiffener inserts before, but tore them out, I didn't like the feel. The outer shell is an Italian pull-up leather 2/3 oz. those of you that have used pull-ups before know how soft that is. The other pieces are constructed with Herrmann Oak veg-tan. Like the corner bumps, helps give the bag more protection from scraps and added structure. I'm most proud of the handles. I think the style and structure came out great. I also like the belted top, keeps the bag from fully opening if you hold it by one handle. Finally, she wanted a "Coach" style plaque on the front of the bag. After calling every trophy shop in town, no one wanted to make me one... they would make me 100 but not one since I needed "not the standard plaque". I found an old nerd technique online how tech folks would make their own PCB boards. I used this method on solid brass with some metal stain and it came out awesome. All the leather is hand sewn saddle stitched with Tiger Thread. I went down to the smallest I could find. 0.6mm. Has I nice feminine look. Kind of a mix between a doctor bag, hunter bag, in a tote style. Dimensions are 18" wide x 15" tall x 4" depth

@thoughtcrimes yes. The leather is glued and then saddle stitched to the canvas

http://www.horsenharness.com/SINGER.html These guys sell parts but they also have PDF's with operation manuals / owners manuals that work for the 29-4, the 29k-51 isn't much different so pick one up from them. They have been a huge help to me.

Plenty of online youtube videos for making your own wax, I just finished up a tool roll, will be posting that soon. Good luck!

I typically do dye canvas myself. This way I can stock just one type of canvas, and I just like to get colors perfect, I tend to like 'warm' colors because leather is natural, and is 'alive' quote unquote so I like red based colors. It just pairs better. Most commercial dyers use sulphur or acid dyes, which tend to run 'cold' in cast IE blueish and it just looks off to me against the reddish tones of leather when I pair the two together, just my opinion. Plus I was an art major so there's that. I use 2 types of fiber reactive dyes. 1. Is the Procion MX dyes found here > http://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-fiber-reactive-procion-dyes.html. Consistent color replication with this stuff if you measure properly. You can mix color powders to get other colors, or just buy their premixed from the color wheel, they have hundreds of colors. 2. And when Im in a pinch or just need a basic "red" or "black" I use Dylon found at pretty much any craft store, here is a link to Joann's Fabrics > http://www.joann.com/dylon-permanent-fabric-dye-/6608335.html?mkwid=rOeXSNwS%7Cdc&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping+-+Crafts&CS_003=10131488&CS_010=%5BProductId%5D&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4fCqBRDM1ZKhk5jfo6IBEiQAZQ97OHEbyP0OZx15qV0DA6T_I_0rvx3if26corkH7MqMhGwaAgBY8P8HAQ Dylon is great for small batch in a bucket, or they make a larger washing machine version too, just needs salt, but I add in soda ash and Calsolene oil also found at Dharma just for evenness and saturation. Make sure you get Dylon Permeant. They do make a multi-purpose, but that is a union dye and will not last. PS, you don't need to buy soda ash online, just go to the grocery store and buy Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda, same stuff much cheaper. Use it when I just wash clothes too. And for the love of everything holy, don't use Rit or other union dyes, they will fade and won't come out with the nice saturation you see with the pros.

Its under 'selvage' here > about half way down http://pacificbluedenims.com/index.php?p=catgp&id=16. Its the cone mills premium selvage natural canvas. email Omid@pacificbluedenims.com, he will take care of you, you have to email to order by the way. I'm not sure how much more the pre-waxed canvas would be, but I preferred to wax just the outside of the canvas and my machine would "gum" up with other pre-waxed canvas. Took a quarter bar of otter wax for me. Order some swatches of a few different things and see what you like. I dyed and waxed mine, but there are plenty of really cool materials to use. The canvas I used was 11.50 oz, plenty heavy, like standard denim heavy. Then the wax about doubles the weight. PBD has stuff all the way up to like 30 oz waxed duck or something crazy like that. There is no minimum purchase, but anything under 100 yards is a 20 cut fee per order. sucks but the cost of their 'by the yard' is MUCH cheaper than other places. they range about 40 to 60% less than from the big NYC fabric houses. I typically order like 10-20 yards of one thing, then 4 or 5 different 2 and 3 yard cuts of other stuff, I make a lot of menswear stuff too. Like I said, get a bunch of swatches and see what you like, typically they carry the good stuff, most from very well known mills. They also get some really cool one off and sample rolls that you never see anywhere, like this tri-color basketweave nylon canvas, BOSS. The weave is smaller in real life and looks like the old salt and pepper covert canvas from back in the 30's, making a men's briefcase / workbag with that. I have never worked with a better supplier than these guys, I check their site at least once a week for some neat stuff. Ask as many questions as you like, I love talking shop and that's what we are here on the forum for right?

What about cobblers glue, I know some guys on the forum swear by it, if it can keep the heel of your shoe glued should be good for a small box. Glue the pieces together to build up your leather block, heck you wouldn't need to cut it then because you could just glue a smaller piece for the ridge. I agree with Dirkba, it looks like 1 piece, prob because of good burnishing.