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Joon1911

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    111
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Joon1911

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 04/01/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Peoples Republik of New York
  • Interests
    Gunleather, handsewing, stitcher maintenance.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    gunleather
  • Interested in learning about
    handstitching, bookbinding, basically anything new
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    A friend in the business

Recent Profile Visitors

7,966 profile views
  1. Bob, thanks for sharing, that’s so unfortunate. I’ve always enjoyed the input Gregg has always added to the conversations here at LW.net
  2. I’ve never used it so I don’t have personal experience but in nearly a decade of using my Class 4, I’ve only run into a couple occasions where I thought the EPS would make my life easier...
  3. Of the half dozen or so I’ve used, these made by Touro are the best that I’ve used. I bought mine on eBay, but this is a US source: https://www.goldstartool.com/4-1-2-straight-ball-bearing-thread-nippers-touro-tesoura.htm No affiliation.
  4. 1.) after awhile you tend to get a sense of how soon your bobbin needs to be replaced before starting a long run. 2.) if you want to use the remainder of your bobbin, pull out enough of the stitches so you have a decent tail to pull the stitches taut and back up several stitches and start stitching with a full bobbin. This will effectively “lock” the old and new stitches in place. The only downside of this is doubled stitches in that area. Cut the ends and burn them like the beginning and end and all set. 3.) if appearance is critical, pull the stitches and start over in the same holes.
  5. Uwe also sells an edge guide that comes with both the roller and flat edge guide. It’s the same one I use made by Kwok Hing https://uwe.store/collections/edge-guides/products/ug441k-edge-guide-kit
  6. Welcome, my experiences have generally lined up with Jason Ingle’s presentation done on learnleather.com website. He does things a bit different from what I’ve figured out on my own, but I learned a lot of nuance from this video. Jason puts it pretty succinctly. As far as the reinforcement panel, I do feel the benefits outweigh any negatives. The added layer of glue & leather combine with the wet moulding to give more definition to the mouth opening.
  7. Such a simple solution Uwe, thank you for sharing. If I hadn’t already machined a custom extension on the lathe at work, I would be doing this for sure.
  8. I know of at least one leather sewing machine dealer in Toronto. Probably at least a couple in the metropolitan area. To be clear, I’ve never dealt with them, just found their sight on the interwebs while searching for a Lucris press. Good luck on the move. http://www.tools4leather.com/12_used_machines_available.htm
  9. I picked up my Cobra C4 during the Sheridan show several years ago. Steve offered a show discount at that time. He might still offer that. Don’t really know. Then again I think that is a Spring show so it might not help much Frankly if one seller is closer to your location regionally then I would choose them over any savings as the service could get very expensive if you can’t figure it out yourself
  10. Thanks for clearing up my mistake... I wish I knew more about all these machines, but at this point in life, things have to leave my brain to stuff more in.
  11. Uwe Grosse makes a version of his flatbed table for the 69 series machines. I have one for the 441 and it is great.
  12. I have a Cobra C4 and I think it has the same setup. I use a classic 4 leg round stool and place it so two legs straddle the base. With my heel on the foot ring it lets me use my toe to control the pedal and still be close to the work. I’ll try to take a photo later today and post it to give you a visual.
  13. I think you have to play it by ear. If the bobbin runs out in the middle of the strap, I’d say the overstitch is a good practice. But if it’s in an area that I think could see high wear, I’ll pull the stitches back to a better location for the overstitch. Sure it takes a bit of efficiency away, but I can’t knowingly sell an item that is in my perception not as functional as possible.
  14. Most holster manufacturers use something similar to strapping used for shipping pallets. It’s spring steel so it had some natural resistance to bending. I’ve dissected a bunch of mainstream holsters and that’s what I’ve seen inside just about every holster I’ve taken apart. I could be mistaken but I think that galvanized steel would be corrosive over time with sandwiching it in the leather.
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