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Joon1911

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About Joon1911

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 04/01/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Peoples Republik of New York
  • Interests
    Gunleather, handsewing, stitcher maintenance.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    gunleather
  • Interested in learning about
    handstitching, bookbinding, basically anything new
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    A friend in the business

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  1. Joon1911

    Plough Gauge

    You can hopefully see condition.
  2. Joon1911

    Plough Gauge

    I have a Dixon that I have mostly restored/rebuilt. Full disclosure, the spring has been replaced, I made a new brass block w/ steel dovetailed wearplate(the original part was missing), new brass roller body and cleaned up most of the corrosion. I also had to replace the threaded elevation rod for the roller guide but the top is original. I couldn’t find a good condition one in the US so I imported it from the UK from the son of a 3 generation leatherworking family, so it has some mileage, but it works very well. I do have all the original parts that came with the gauge. The help twine was on it when I received it. I paid too much for it and have too much time in rebuilding it but don’t use it very much since I had Doldokki make me a left-handed version of his plough gauge. I’d sell it for $575 shipped
  3. I’m afraid that’s just the trial and error to figure it all out. When I’m prototyping a new pattern, I buy sheets of 5mm craft foam from Hobby Lobby or Michaels https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Basic-Crafts/Craft-Foam/Foam-Sheet---12-x-18/p/80763167 5mm is between 12-13 oz so just about perfect re: thickness of material. and it will tear along the stitching if your pattern is too tight. A lot cheaper that using leather. I can usually get 2-3 prototypes out of 1 sheet. Err on the side of slightly too loose for the stitch pattern vs. too tight as the foam has more stretch/give than leather. You will still need to fine tune once you translate to leather. Once you have a good pattern in the foam I cut the thread out and pull the glue apart and I can lay it flat on a piece of card stock to have a flat pattern. I’ll post a pic in a day or two when I can drag one out. I’m not currently near my shop space.
  4. That gun pictured has a Gold Cup type slide fitted. There is a sight rib milled into the slide. A standard 1911 Blue Gun will not work without modification. Oh, and based on the picture above the gun is a Colt 1911, with the Randall slide. 70S serial number range puts the frame as from a 1979 Series 70 MK IV Government Model
  5. Bob, thanks for sharing, that’s so unfortunate. I’ve always enjoyed the input Gregg has always added to the conversations here at LW.net
  6. I’ve never used it so I don’t have personal experience but in nearly a decade of using my Class 4, I’ve only run into a couple occasions where I thought the EPS would make my life easier...
  7. Of the half dozen or so I’ve used, these made by Touro are the best that I’ve used. I bought mine on eBay, but this is a US source: https://www.goldstartool.com/4-1-2-straight-ball-bearing-thread-nippers-touro-tesoura.htm No affiliation.
  8. 1.) after awhile you tend to get a sense of how soon your bobbin needs to be replaced before starting a long run. 2.) if you want to use the remainder of your bobbin, pull out enough of the stitches so you have a decent tail to pull the stitches taut and back up several stitches and start stitching with a full bobbin. This will effectively “lock” the old and new stitches in place. The only downside of this is doubled stitches in that area. Cut the ends and burn them like the beginning and end and all set. 3.) if appearance is critical, pull the stitches and start over in the same holes.
  9. Uwe also sells an edge guide that comes with both the roller and flat edge guide. It’s the same one I use made by Kwok Hing https://uwe.store/collections/edge-guides/products/ug441k-edge-guide-kit
  10. Welcome, my experiences have generally lined up with Jason Ingle’s presentation done on learnleather.com website. He does things a bit different from what I’ve figured out on my own, but I learned a lot of nuance from this video. Jason puts it pretty succinctly. As far as the reinforcement panel, I do feel the benefits outweigh any negatives. The added layer of glue & leather combine with the wet moulding to give more definition to the mouth opening.
  11. Such a simple solution Uwe, thank you for sharing. If I hadn’t already machined a custom extension on the lathe at work, I would be doing this for sure.
  12. I know of at least one leather sewing machine dealer in Toronto. Probably at least a couple in the metropolitan area. To be clear, I’ve never dealt with them, just found their sight on the interwebs while searching for a Lucris press. Good luck on the move. http://www.tools4leather.com/12_used_machines_available.htm
  13. I picked up my Cobra C4 during the Sheridan show several years ago. Steve offered a show discount at that time. He might still offer that. Don’t really know. Then again I think that is a Spring show so it might not help much Frankly if one seller is closer to your location regionally then I would choose them over any savings as the service could get very expensive if you can’t figure it out yourself
  14. Thanks for clearing up my mistake... I wish I knew more about all these machines, but at this point in life, things have to leave my brain to stuff more in.
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