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veritasleather

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Everything posted by veritasleather

  1. Ok, so looks like the double sided tape and a good solid flat board is going to be key. I will have to get some MDF instead of ply just to be safe and order some double sided tape. I am also hoping once I stitch it down to a heavy layer of leather it will flatten as well. thanks again for your tips and advise fredk.
  2. Fredk, so the Chessboard is a 22" x 22" square of veg. tan leather. (b) yes, I still want to put a backing or liner under the 5-6 oz. to stabilize it? but would still want it to roll. (c) doubling it up the thickness with a liner (d) I have 1/4 inch. thick plywood, would that work? don't have double sided tape, but maybe cement it to the plywood since I will cover the glued area with backing leather? Do you think this will straighten the leather or flatten it back?? thanks for your help.
  3. Hey guys, I am in need of some advice, I have been working on a 22 x 22 chessboard for a buddy of mine. I am using Chahin Weaver veg. tan 5-6 oz. leather. I went ahead and used clear packing tape on the back and now I have cut all my lines and cut a 1 1/2 rose border. but now all of the edges and borders are beginning to warp or curl up. Honestly, its beginning to look like a giant valet tray lol. I still have a lot of stamping to go, should I just continue with tooling or should I remove tape and glue it to cardboard? I would appreciate the help? What would you guys do in my situation? Frank
  4. @Stetson912 @JKHelms Great, yes thanks fellas, I will definitely try this, interesting on your pic @JKHelms, yours is stitched, i thought of that, but the customers current wheel is not stitched at all, he said they have had it for years but its begining to crack along the side.
  5. Hey guys, I am making a 1" thick x 12" diameter veg. tan (sole leather) wheel with a 3/4 ID. for a knife co. they use it to knock off burrs after sharpening. I glued up 4 layers with Master's cement. My issue is that wheel is not very true or flat on the OD, I guess i didn't mate some of the edges that well. So, in some areas there is about 1/16th or less off on the edge. What would be a good way to flatten or even out the area? thanks! Frank
  6. I think I can get their water stains, I am going to have try them out. And also dipping.
  7. ok, I did my own test, I know most of you don't have to deal with this problem because you're not in CA. But i did test out the LOW VOC black Fiebings dye and I gotta say it was a pretty bad experience. I dyed a strap, let it dry 24 hours. I came back and it ended up pretty blotchy. And when I went to buff the cotton shirt I used ended up black with dye. I had to re-dye with pro oil black dye (Fiebings) again. After this, I had no problem, like night and day. Well, hope this helps someone.
  8. Hey guys! I don't know if this has already been a topic. Has anyone compared Fiebing's Low VOC vs. their pro dye? I KNOW pro is the best! but here in Cali. its getting harder to get the pro dye. Just wondering if anyone has experienced the pros and cons when compared? Other than the harmful fumes of course. I guess I am asking performance wise. thank you all!
  9. Since you have experience making leather pick guards with no backing, So far none have curled or lifted when left with no backing?
  10. Ah yes! thanks for all the advise, I have some good options now to try. I am going to experiment with all of the above.
  11. I totally missed the Formica part of your last post. Yes, looks like Formica might just work! I will have to go check some out, thanks!
  12. Yeah bikermutt07 and HorsehairBraider, I thought about that, but it would be too tall. He gave me a .090 inch max height in total which is about 3/32nds and roughly around 6 oz. leather. I would like to keep the leather the thickest possible and backing be the thinner. Maybe if I find a cheap paper thin sticker type of pick guard?
  13. Hey guys! I need some options and opinions on what to use as a stiffener/backing for some Tele style guitar pick guards. My customer wants me to make him a sample and I want to use the right type of backing to prevent shrinkage (if any) and of course to stiffen the leather? Do I even need a backing? is there just a finishing technic I can use? My customer wants a batch of these...so I better make it right the first time, know what I mean? thanks for your time!
  14. Yes, definitely, I believe I am at about 5 per inch. I like the look so far. My "LL" needles are ordered, I am checking to see if they have the "LR" available as well. I didn't find any in the Cutex store. Lets see what they say....
  15. Yes, and thank you for making the video with that purpose. It works, its functional, minimal gap under the roller, it goes away when you don't need it, comes right back, boom! I want! Simple as that, And I have definitely gotten about 90% of my C4 questions answered here and on YouTube, so thanks again! I am ordering the needles as well, hopefully they will send the right ones.
  16. Great! This definitely points me in the right direction with needle selection. Thanks for clearing this stuff up. Also, side note: I recently discovered your holster downloads and edge guide video. cool stuff, and definitely going to try one of your holster patterns soon, and definitely order that edge guide from eBay. Thanks again sir!
  17. JLSleather, I have had my Cobra4 for just a couple of months and I finally got it to stitch correctly, thanks to many of the pros on this forum. Your pick above shows what I would like my stitches to look like. I want to continue to use 277 nylon on both top and bottom. Can you give me a specific model number of needles for the "LR" and "LL" and maybe the vendor to order from? I have been reading a lot about needles but I get thrown off by all the 7x3, 7x4, 200/xxx etc. I think I know the series for my machine is 794. I would really appreciate your help, or any of you guys that can help me out. thank you!
  18. My machine is also in a hot spot, I will definitely check the behavior of the thread and go from there , thanks!
  19. MADMAXX22, I noticed when looking at my spool of thread that I had it set on the stand that the Leather Machine co. recommends for the bobbin thread spool. I don't know if this matters? So, this would be the stand farthest from the thread path. I will definitely check my spool of thread and see if it sticks anywhere, or if it pulls. mikesc, I will definitely clean out the tension assembly areas and look for dust and dirt. This all makes a lot of sense now. My machine is definitely in an area that can accumulate much dust. I will definitely look for snags. thanks guys!
  20. Thanks Darren, so what you mean is that it could also be that there is a problem with the top spool itself? Or tension is causing the un even feed?
  21. Thank you Wizcrafts, I am still using the bobbin that was loaded with the machine when I picked it up from the leather machine co. I think I will attempt to wind a bobbin myself per your comments. I hope this fixes things, again, am still learning. Trying to follow what all the leather machine co. videos suggest. The long leads of thread before starting to stitch also makes sense. I do notice the knots up first at the beginning of stitching then they might go back down for a couple of more stitches. Thanks guys!
  22. Hey guys! Im a noob here, first post. I recently acquired a Cobra 4 from the leather machine co. picked up from Dave about a month ago. Now my problem is that when I sew my knots pop up on top for about 4-5 stitches then they disappear for another 4-5 then they reappear. Please understand I am just learning how to drive this thing. Never used one before. is it me pushing or pulling the leather? or is this a tension problem? thank you guys! Frank
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