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kseidel

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About kseidel

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 02/25/1965

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  • Website URL
    http://www.seidelsaddlery.com
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    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cody, Wyoming
  • Interests
    Fishing, Hunting, Riding Horses, Shooting, Reloading, Silversmithing, Camping, Traveling, Art,

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddlemaking
  • Interested in learning about
    other leatherworkers
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  1. The technique you are describing is called a blind stitch. It is very common with cutters and show saddles. It can be done very well and holds up well. The swell cover is fitted on the tree and cut so the edges butt together. Then the cover is removed and stitched together from the back side with the threads going thru the leather diagonally and not breaking the surface. Things to be aware of when covering a swell this way.... 1) do not fit the swell cover too tight to the tree. The leather will shrink when it dries and if too tight it will pull a gap in the seam and the stitches will show. 2) Keep stitches close together. No more than 1/4 inch between stitch holes. 3) use thick swell cover so there is enough thickness for stitches. You don't want the stitches to be closer to the surface than the epidermis layer of the hide. I have made a lot of saddles with blind stitched swells. Good Luck. Keith
  2. This style of rubber hammer is very effective for forming swell covers over undercut swells. It really helps to work out those wrinkles. It works best to pull as much slack into the hand hole and front gullet as possible before trying to sweat the cover over the rest of the swell.
  3. Bruce is correct in his reply. However, this swell cover is not that hard to remove, and if the job warrants, it is easy enough to remove and recover the horn under the swell cover as original. Keith
  4. What version of this measuring system do you have for sale?
  5. You are gettin the idea! Much improvement in your working toward a purpose. Keep practicing. Work on mastering each tool. It is okay (and even preferred) to copy other toolers work until you are able to make yours look like theirs. You will learn to draw your own patterns as you gain experience working with other established patterns. Keep up the GOOD WORK!
  6. Good job! Now you are closer to having a plan and purpose for the look you are trying to make with the tools you are using. Draw in your finish cuts before you cut them in the leather. It is most profitable to practice right and learn the right way. Much harder to un-learn bad practices. As you go forward, try to make each cut and stamp perfect... exactly where and how you want. Practice perfection! Good luck! Keith
  7. You are practicing trying to learn how to carve and stamp the leather, without a good understanding of what you want as a finished look. I would encourage you to draw or trace the pattern on paper, and then shade in all of the details with your pencil. Black out the background, shade, draw all of the veins and mule tracks, etc, and draw in the finish cuts. Be as precise as you can. Then when you stamp in leather, try to duplicate what you have drawn as precisely as possible. What you are doing now is very haphazzard and make-it-up as you go, without a specific plan, and that shows in your finished work.
  8. I highly advise that you try to spend a few days in Sheridan, Wyoming during the Rocky Mountain Leather Trade Show, May 15-20, 2018. There are several classes being taught on the construction of saddles. The information will be invaluable to you at this stage. Keith
  9. Your comment is valid, but not very applicable in today's saddle market. Most of the hides turned into saddle skirting in the US are steer hides. No cow hides are being used for saddle skirting. These steers are young... under two years. No stretch marks and minimal difference between right and left sides.
  10. The books you have listed are good places to start. Also Lucky seven for wallets and lucky eight for belts are good how to books that would be good for beginners. Lucky seven has small projects that you can do in a sitting. All have good pointers and tips. Once you get a good understanding of the principles in these books, Sheridan style will not be so intimidating. The principles of stamping are the same regardless of the style of pattern. Good luck!
  11. I can repair this for you, but I would recommend that you contact John Fallis and have him do the repair for you. He is most familiar with the particular construction of the saddle, and his prices are considerably lower than mine. John's address is 17402 N. Franklin Blvd Nampa, ID 83687 Phone: 208-461-7252
  12. Now I am confused.... Did you stitch your horn and cantle using a "saddle stitch" using two needles crossing the threads in the hole as you progress, or a "lockstitch" using a hook and pulling a loop from one side that the thread from the other side is threaded thru and then pulling the "lock" into the center?
  13. Yes, raising the rear dee would have been the proper adjustment to maintain the shallower, larger radius of the rear jockey to match the skirt.
  14. Nice looking saddle Jon. Clean and neat and well made. May I add a critique...mostly related to design... skirt shape does not match seat and jockey shapes. Skirt should have a fuller rear corner to match jockey (or change jockey shape to match skirt). Side seat jockey is a bit too deep down the side, and a bit too short front to back. Follow the cantle line around the seat jockey and back thru the front of the swell. This is cosmetic, and wont affect the functionality of the saddle.
  15. Interesting to read the replies and hear the "guesses." The proper way to bleed strings is to cut from the bottom up, as shown in your pic labeled "UP". This allows the strings to lay down smoothly and is more attractive.
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