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seagiant

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About seagiant

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  1. Hi, Old sawblades are usually "L6" Steel. As was stated the critical temp for hardening is about 1550 degrees. Temper temp for a knife is about 350 degrees. To make the knife properly without forging, it is usually "normalized", ground or shaped and then quenched and tempered. I won't go into heat cycling, to reduce the grain structure, and other things custom knife makers use to make a better knife. Some people, spend their entire lives, learning about Knifemaking and the Heat Treatment of Steel! Custom shop made knives, are superior to commercial mass produced knives, for a reason! https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/saw-blade-steel-l6.108694/
  2. Hi I go there to get info on old machines or PDF copys of owners manuals. I now have the Delta 6" Jointer apart and I'm cleaning and painting. Replacing the old original bearings (New Departure) with new ones in the cutter head. I have a 1 HP motor to run it which will be plenty.
  3. Hi, Nice jig and looks easy to make. Here is a link to the best vid I have seen on sharpening a round knife. I learned to sharpen knives as a kid, my Father never could figure it out? I was gifted a Tandy Stohlman Knife also and after rounding the back of the handle to get rid of the flat edge... And then sharpening, works very well for me! I use oilstones, instead of the more expensive diamond but the results should be the same.
  4. Hi, This, is like the Jointer I'm rebuilding. I did want a vintage Delta Uni-saw, table saw, but the Craftsman was so close to it anyway... Just upgraded the fence and was done. Everyone wanted a lot of $$$ for their Uni-saws anyway!
  5. Hi, Thanks, Gentlemen! Here is a pic of the old 10" Craftsman, it is such a solid machine, I bought a Delta T2 Fence for it. Only has a 1 HP motor, but with a thin kerf blade does what I need, if I take it easy. The 14" Planer is a RYOBI (made in Japan) 80"s model, but still works great and I can sharpen the blades myself. I'm now rebuilding a, 50's Delta 6" Jointer, so have a few tools to do projects with. That Bama, Red Oak, is so solid and hard, you need tools that will work it!
  6. Hi, Thanks fella's! I thought about leather on the jaws but, I sandwiched sandpaper between the jaws... And, worked it, so the jaws are fit to each other pretty well, meaning, they hold the leather with equal force. This keeps anything from being marked! I had an old 80"s small Craftsman Router Table to round the edges which helped and a old Craftsman 50's table saw. Not really, state of the art, but solid tools made when we actually produced quality in this Country! I'm going to make a sheath for my head knife to try it out!
  7. Hi, Here is a pic of what I was using before. Made it with really no tools, except a hacksaw, using pallet wood. Wanted something better.
  8. Hi, No just finished it. Admittedly it was more work than I thought going in, but? Holds leather well and stays were you set it with the knobs. Hoping if I use it angled forward a little, it will keep the thread from catching on anything.
  9. Hi, Thanks, the cans are probably 25 years old?
  10. Hi, I had some rough cut Alabama Red Oak, and decided to take a board of it and make a real adjustable stitching pony. It will adjust 2 ways and seems to work well. Not really a wood worker but it came out pretty good I think! No plans just looked at pics and went for it!
  11. Hi, I was given the Tandy "Al Stohlman" model round knife. The handle was a nice size but cut flat on the end, I rounded it on my belt sander and finished by hand and it is now comfortable. Sharpened it at about 15 degrees, using the tips from the Leather Wrangler on sharpening head knives. Went coarse, medium fine and finish with a soft Arkansas stone. Then stropped with a rogue impregnated leather board. Seems to work very well and better than my old Osborn? Time will tell!
  12. Hi, I went through all that when I was making (forging knives) I finally just decided to make what I wanted, and never lacked buyers!
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