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Everything posted by scooby

  1. rather than strips of tape (which as Winterbear says is a pain to remove) you can use 'sticky backed plastic' that way it (generally) pulls off in one long spiral just like your lace. Once again a SHARP blade is required and I find it helps to cut the start with a knife to get it started.
  2. scooby

    Back Stitching

    I'm in no way shape or form an expert but I also backstitch start and end of stitch...... at least I think I do...... in fact I often double the ends quite a lot if it is a high stress area (ie the top of a knife sheath). I'm not sure how to explain myself but I'll do my best. Imagine a line of stitching with each hole numbered - 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 etc I start and finis the same so just reverse the steps at the other end. I start by threading my start at hole 5 and work my way saddle stitching with a twist to lock back to hole 1. Here I either go back to hole 2, back to hole 1 then back to 2 and then continue up the hole numbers to the other end of the stitch line or if the end is an open end I will do the extra one or two loops out and round the piece through hole 1 (hope that makes sense) so essentially in numbers it would be 5 4 3 2 1 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9........ or 5 4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9....... I've just read and reread that and even I get a little confused however I cant think of an easier way to explain it
  3. yup pretty much - or use as it is for a thick chunky thread
  4. could you not lay a number of lengths together to get the thickness you require? do you require it to have loads of strength........ we have what's known as 'anchor silk' (first link I could find) over here that comes in a myriad of colours and you can separate it into individual strands to get the thickness you require. I'm sure there is a similar thing over the pond that may fit the bill. Waxed up I would think it would work fine - if you are worried about strength could you not double stitch it over your 'sinew'?
  5. Wow! I'd like to ask how you put the ipad in though? - the corners looks so snug and neat!!!
  6. I mailed Tandy earlier and I wasn't going mad!!!! - this was the reply from Jim their customer Service Manager.... Good morning Graham, The video was taken off the website because some of the products have been discontinued. I will ask R & D to have George possibly make a new one. so fingers crossed for a remake and top marks for customer service.
  7. Am I going mad? I'm sure I found a youtube video by Tandy / George Hurst showing the various tandy adhesives that were available a while ago but can't seem to find one now. Is there one (was there one) and if so where?
  8. Is it possible to modify a standard flat edge beveller to a curved one - could I attack it with a small round needle file or will I just end up killing it forever?
  9. I have been asked to tool a name. Not rocket science I'm sure but I have never tooled a thing in my life (bar embossing a makers stamp or two) Can anyone recommend me a simple font / style to try?
  10. Good idea! - will do thanks I think it is more an issue of poor photo skills to be honest - it seems to cut well and dosn't drift as far as I can tell Well the Tandy tool is £17 plus delivery here and the mortice tool was £4 - I thought if it didn't work I could always I could always chop off the end and add the pin back again and have another (albeit slightly shorter) mortice tool thanks for the kind comments peeps!
  11. I have toyed with buying a strap cutter to cut belts blanks for some time but have always baulked at the cost. I was thinking about making one from scratch but then I had one of those sparks of inspiration… Take one mortise marking tool from the local market tool store I removed the marking pin by knocking through and then used a claw hammer to remove it being careful not to mark the main 'bar' as this is what the leather will eventually ride on. With a very fine blade (junior hacksaw) I cut a slot for the blade from the left hand side as I am right handed – this means that when cutting you will be pushing the blade into the body. I then drilled a pilot hole to take my locking screw (the smallest I had) of which once I had screwed it in once to cut a thread I removed an files the point off to give a flat end to bite into the blade better. The blade is one from my skiver / thong cutting tool but you could use a Stanley blade snapped in half. With the blade in place the screw is tightened to hold it in place And finally a shot of it in use… - you must be wary of the exposed blade but that is the same as a number of models in Stohlmans book So there you have it! - a strap cutter on a budget!
  12. I measured as 8 1/2" which was a loose comfy fit - voted for 9" as requested though! and 34" waist if you are interested!
  13. Thanks for the comments Chuck and i'm not in the least offended - after all i'm just a newbee to this game after all! I have no idea about the rustyness - i read that is what it should be like so that is what I have always done..... also I understand re 'changing the leather' its just that It was the best way I could think of to describe the fact it isn't a stain to people to be honest I wondered re rusting too - i'll try a batch without somewhen and see if there is a differance.
  14. There has been some discussion regarding colouring leather using vinagaroon in the past so here is how I make and use it. Note! - I am certainly no authority on this - It is just how I do it! MAKING VINEGAROON 'Ingredients' – Steel wool & Distilled Vinegar This batch was made using an old brillo pad which was washed till no soap remained then left to rust in a jar. To speed the rusting along I rinse the wool with a little water then pour out the excess to keep it damp for a few days. Fill up your jar with the wool in it with distilled vinegar (this is Tesco value brand!) And give it a good shake – it will look like brown muddy sludge – NOTE – ensure you loosen off the lid aftwards! (it will produce gas and build up pressure while 'brewing' and it can explode if you leave the lid firmly on. After a few days it will look like this – you can see the bubbles still being produced! Lock the lid back on and give it another good shake before loosening off and leaving for another couple of days – repeat this for about a week till the wool is dissolved away. It will probably still be cloudy sludge looking so I filter through a piece of kitchen paper to take out the big bits Once filtered it should look a little like weak back tea – ENSURE you label it well! You can use it straight away but I have found it better to leave it a couple of days to 'mature' – it kinda clears and looks more like a liquid rather than a solution if that makes sense. USING VINEGAROON It's simple - really simple! Either dip your veg tanned leather into the solution or daub / brush it on. It starts to darken almost immediately. You may have to do 2 or 3 applications to get the colour you want although it does darken and look better once it is oiled or waxed (I use mink oil) To neutralize the acid I soak a couple of times in a strong bicarbonate of soda solution then finally rinse in clean water. Here is a before shot of my demo piece of leather beside a white sheet of paper A link to a(poor and out of focus) video of the process to show the speed of the change And finally a pic of the result (before neutralizing and oiling!) Please note this is not a dye - it changes the structure of the leather itself so it will not wear off - however I find it gives a more even effect and is very quick and cheap! FINALLY..... ONE I MADE EARLIER! A sheath I made to show the effect on an actual piece
  15. Excellent! - thanks OutbackP - I knew there was probably something already on here but I would never have found that this side of Christmas! This is just what I was after
  16. Thanks for the Info Mike! I have been around for a while though my post count is low as I haven't felt I have the experience to share yet. I have been making leather sheaths and pouches for a couple of years now but never got round to having a go at tooling (fuelled by the fact I'm not that artistic....) I think what you have said is going to be a great help and I'll pop out to the workshop and make myself a beveller... Would I be correct in guessing that I'd be best off choosing a 'chunky' font and cutting around it's outline then going around it with the beveller.
  17. I'm sure it is covered somewhere else but I can't seem to find it if it is! I need to add some initials to a leather knife sheath for my daughter so when her sister gets an identical knife they don't squabble which is which however..... I have no tools bar a small sharp scalpel Can anyone show me (preferably in simple pictures) how to carve a simple letter J and B I could create a simple stamp if necessary from mild steel bar if you can show me what i need to end up with so all you masters of leather art - can you help me?
  18. Would not mentioning the fact that you can tool 'anything!' and machine embossed work can only produce what the die is cut to! not simply bring home the difference? For example 'you would like your initals in the middle of the design? - no problem!' Then again I've never tooled a thing in my life so what do I know!?
  19. Thanks Tony - received it a sec a go, very interesting and I learnt loads!
  20. I'm no expert for sure but I do live in the UK! - For the limited times I use glue I use either superglue to 'spot weld' things in place or UHU Extra. I got my first from Aldi or Lidl but as they only do limited runs I started to trawl the net to find some more - thankfully they have started to sell it in hobbycraft I like the fact that it works like a glue stick to apply but acts like a contact adhesive and is pretty strong. The majority of my strength comes from the stitching so find it convenient as it is easy to apply and you cant spill it!
  21. apart from ensuring the canvas is wrapped the correct way how do you fix it to the burnisher? I also assume the slight 'step' where the canvas starts / ends doesn't cause a problem.... A pic would be great if possible
  22. We call it Metric and Imperial and even though I was only ever taught metric at school I use a mixture. Temperature - metric - 'C weight - metric length - both - depending on the most appropriate measurement! In fact it drives my wife batty when I mix measurements! - 'it is 20mm by 4 and a half inches'
  23. scooby

    Lace Maker

    There is a pretty good video on youtube - http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=OQ0zkddmM1I but as has been said before - practice practice practice
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