vericone

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About vericone

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  1. vericone

    Anyone know that tools ?

    Thank You Black Dog, there is no way I would figure this one out ...
  2. vericone

    Anyone know that tools ?

    Thanks Art for Your reply. As I know now how the knife should look like I will be able to put it in working condition. Those pliers should be used for shoe making, as the rest of tools I've bought are definitely a shoemaker's tools, but I'm not 100% positive about that. Person who was selling them knew only that it was her grandfather's tools, and that he was a shoemaker.
  3. vericone

    Anyone know that tools ?

    Do You know what are those tools, and what they are designed for? They can be broken, the "pliers" probably has one jaw broken off .
  4. vericone

    Adler 69 Reverse Stitch

    Here is an update about reverse stitch adjustment. Some of You know the video from youtube on this operation. But I've noticed that You don't have to disassemble all elements to make the adjustment. I don't know how to name some elements in English, so there is a photo below. 1. Remove the "A" element 2. Loose the lever "D" 3. Unscrew the knob "C" (not totally), 4. Put the reverse stitch lever in maximum reverse position, screw in the knob "C" until inside the machine it will touch the "mechanism" (when machine is set to max. reverse or max forward, the "mechanism" rests on the stitch length screw/knob), 5. Tighten the lever "D". 6. Now You check how forward and reverse stitch matches... It does not match, so... In my machine when I tighten the lever "D" it clamped/binded three parts: Knob "C" + Lever "D" + the hidden screw which adjusts forward/reverse stitch, lets name it "X". Now You do it. 7. Loose the screw "B" and now You can adjust the "X" element. This element looks like the screw with an off center hole. If hole goes up reverse goes longer, if hole goes down, forward goes longer. So You turn the Knob "C" now (with lever "D" and "X" element together) to adjust reverse. Every time You make a change You have to tighten the "B" screw, check point 4. again , check if stitches matches, if they don't unscrew "B" and adjust and screw back "B". 8.When everything is set, tighten "B" and put "A" back again. Done. I know it all would take 5 seconds to show in a video, but I've tried to make it as clear as possible. If the "X" is screw into the iron cast so deep, that the lever "D" is not resting on it, You can screw it out a bit. I've noticed that it does not affect anything if "X" is deeper in cast or not.
  5. vericone

    Adler 69 Reverse Stitch

    I've had no problem at all with the reverse. I also have been wondering why the plate was limiting the reverse stitch... (when calibrating machine I've noticed that I set forward stitch to equal the maximum reverse... this made me look closer to the plate) Mine Adler is 69-372. I didn't have time to investigate it properly, but it seems that 69-372 has 4mm stitch and 69-373 has 5mm stitch, if anyone knows some facts please let me know. It would be strange if only the plate would differ those two models, but who knows...
  6. vericone

    Adler 69 Reverse Stitch

    Good way to set proper reverse stitch is to understand how the mechanism works (it was in my case ) When You open the arm cover You will see that when the stitch length screw is set to max stitch length, the upper side of "funny shape thing" rests on the screw. When You set the machine to reverse, the other side of "funny shape thing" rests or at least gets near the screw. Now You see that the screw is the point where the "thing" achieve its borders - from one side max forward, from the other max reverse. Now the most important - when setting the reverse stitch length You adjust the position of the stitch length screw. It is not about how deep it goes to the iron cast, what matters is that it can be higher or lower. I'm not by the machine now, but I think that if the hole (for stitch length screw) is higher, You get less forward and more reverse, hole goes lower - more forward, less reverse. Hope it helps.
  7. vericone

    Adler 69 Reverse Stitch

    https://youtu.be/0hLbNx3dGkY - this is a good video about reverse stitch calibration.
  8. vericone

    Adler 69 Reverse Stitch

    Mine is 372 and I see the difference. Now mine goes with a stitch length of about 4mm (on about 3mm thick leather)
  9. There is a photo of mechanism that is used to raise both feet. In the photo the height is maxed out, if You unscrew the nut and make the lever go down, then screw it back - the height will be minimal.... not exactly what You are asking, but good thing to know when discovering new machine. Having the problem You do, I would unscrew the top bolt ( pressing foot spring ) so the foot could freely go up... this will give You the clear image if there is something wrong with a foot bar or anything else.
  10. Well, when talking about a clutch motor it works as a speed reducer of some sort (as it make the "ignition margin" bigger ). Also it is easier to make than making the clutch arm longer, as I've seen somewhere. I use this mod with a speed reducer (about 3:1) what makes the machine go smoothly from about 1 stitch per second to the top speed.
  11. When I was adjusting things on my adler 69, I've got problems with reverse stitch. After finding solutions on youtube I've made some adjustments, but I've lost the stitch length.... Two days I was struggling with a reverse mechanism, and I've found something strange - the plate, covering a slot in which the reverse stitch lever was moving, was smaller than the slot in the cast itself... reverse lever was stopping on the plate, while there was a place to travel a bit more. I've cut the plate more, to fit the slot in the cast. Now the machine works fine on reverse with full stitch length. It's quite possible that the plate have been replaced in the past, but maybe this hint can help someone. On the photo there is a mark showing where the slot was ending before cutting it to the bigger size.
  12. I've bought Jack Jk-561A-1 Servo Motor and I'm really happy with it. But there is a nice modification to make, good for a newbies like me, to make the servo motor even more predictive. I've nowhere found similar idea, so I've decided to share. I made this mod with the clutch motor that was previously installed on my machine, and it was running quite good. But as the leather does not like mistakes... I've got a servo. Returning to the point, here are photos of the modification. The cost of it is about $2. Only downsides I've spotted by now are: first - You can not "back" the treadle (that makes the lever on the motor controller go up. And for me this is not a problem), second - when you lift the treadle and then it drops down, it can pull the controller and sew a stitch (changing the lever spring should fix it). The main thing, the mod does is that for the 17mm movement of the controller lever You need to push the treadle by 35mm. Even with motor set to the highest speed there is no problem for a newbie to control the speed from slow to full. ( I hope it's all clear, as English is not my native language )
  13. vericone

    Why This Pfaff 335 Looks Different ?

    I've also found this Adler. Description of the photo says it's an "ADLER-OMAC EOS KL. 69-FA-373" ( Found here: http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/shoe-manufacturing/diverse-machines/details/1665/ ) Then doing some more research found this: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=62222 and straight to this: http://www.omacsrl.com/products/sewing-machines/with-arm/sewing-machine-with-reduced-diameter-arm-69-373-e-o-s/ So the case of Pfaff must be the same. 100% custom work. ( It was mentioned somewhere that the machine is made for sole sewing )
  14. vericone

    Why This Pfaff 335 Looks Different ?

    Thanks Uwe, I think so too... as this would be my first triple-feed machine, buying a custom one is not a good idea... I haven't found any info on this particular machine, so further adjustments or finding spare parts would be nightmare. I will stick to "ordinary looking" Pfaffs and Adlers
  15. Hello, I've found a lot of information on this forum and I appreciate it a lot. But there is a thing that I can't figure out. I've found Pfaff 335 described as H3 17 1B L but the arm looks different then others I've seen. I assume that "other machines" are designed for binding and this precise one is exclusively for leather - but I'm not sure... Normally in the arm there is the dog feed mechanism... What are the differences above just the look of machine? (here are some photos of this machine)