chasman52

Thanks all! Alligator is hard to works the edges unless its thin. I used edge paint after burnishing.

Black Alligator for my CSX S&W pistol. Veg tan lined inside. The reviews on this pistol were way too harsh. .

Got the skin from a local tanner on Instagram. Marcos_josiah_arroyo

THANK YOU ALL . I'm almost out of python now but I'll post again soon.

I don't have the time. The tanneries in Florida charge a lot to properly tan the hides.

I've done a few of those, but I'm low on the Python now. too expensive

here's another Python colt ....er it might be a Kimber. LOL

Here's a customer photo of a shoulder rig I made for him. C3Leatherworks

"Oil is cheap compared to replacing parts!" and the two hours production I lost. BoB are those parts available? The screw/pin? the assembly? cost.? Bob, thanks for the advise .!!

I got rid of the squeak for now by disassembling & cleaning these areas up and polishing the screw/pins. highlighted by the arrow. there was some galling in one of the pins. I smoothed it very lightly with white rough and crossed my fingers. AFTER AN HOUR, The squeak is gone for now, but i will look into replacing these parts if it comes back. In the future I will not overlook the required maintenance these area requires. REMOVE THE COVER AND OIL AS RECOMMENDED!!

Yes I did. I was able to lessen the rub by loosening the screw 1/4 turn. ( the screw left and below the one in the pic with an arrow

Oiled holes in the assemble and all next to it. it helped but the galling sound persists. can I disassemble and clean ,polish? Will that help. Machine still runs excellent . NOTE: correction- arrow in picture pointed to wrong joint. the joint to the lower left is the noisy one. I have disassembled , cleaned and reoiled, but slight noise still heard if run slow.

I will do that and be right back

I know the cause is poor maintenance, or time, or both, but what can I do before it gets worse? This bearing is bad. I know it because if I loosen this 1/2 turn the squeek stops. Anyone familiar with this assembly that can advise much appreciated!!!!!! Charles C3leatherworks Miami Fl.

WOW

JLS: & Wiz Great pic JLS!!! it worth more than 2000 word. You assumed correct. I removed the spring before I took the picture. Those springs seem so brittle. So I called the manufacturer The Leathemachine company sent me a new spring and the translucent sticker. Now,I have a little more upper tension adjustment with 207 thread, I sent them(leathermachineCo) the picture of the bobbin and they said it can be run like that. I've been using it at 6 SPI. I haven't experimented with a longer stitch yet. I'm still feeling my way along. I thinks I've viewed every cowboy, , cobra , juki 441 video I could find. I need to check out Techsew It does very well with 277 and 207 at 6 spi. Thanks for the replys you guys rock Charles C3leatherworks Miami FL.

Good call, I checked the spring without thread and there's no tension left in the spring. I'll, replace that first. Thank you

I picked up a new to me cobra 4 with EPS. I've spent a lot of my free time going over all the info here and on the web. At first, it cycled smooth, but the stitch was inconsistent. I went through the adjustments . The help you get from the leather co. website, here, youtube is awesome. Now I'm stitching 277 and 207 in 1/4 to 3/8" very nice I still have some issues . 1. My bobbin holder has a nick/gouge( see photo ) 2. My motor (TN422B ) was never modified to go slow. How do I tell if this gouge is going to cause me problems? I have heard that the Leathercompany has a modification for my motor to improve the speed control. I want to tell you how much I've enjoyed this Forum . You all helped me so much on my machines

Offer accepted , deal pending

sent u a message

THanks UWE, my hook has way over double that much play. I'll closed up the play to about .060. It's not stiff or tight, but it's not loose

It's been awhile since I last posted about my machine. Thanks again to everyone. My main concern is in the hook there is aleast 3/16" play. By that I mean if I hold the main shaft still the hook"s point can travel 3/16' before the slack in the bevel gears stops it. I could move the bevel gear on the main shaft closer if needed, but only if there is to much play. Since the manual is not specific about how much play is required I'm seeking you all's input The manual only says" not to close ,not to far". It is running ok, but gets very slack when in a curve with 138 or larger thread.. I suppose that could be me. I'm not sure if I'm operating it that well. Although with 69 thread it's much easier to turn.

Mike and Ryan are correct. I should have looked in the manual too. Sorry for my post.