Mohawk Dave

Hi all, I'm still saving up for a Cowboy or Cobra 25", but this Mitsubishi DN-260 just popped up on CL for $75 so I googled it real quick with little results and decided to grab it. I paid the guy tonight and will pick it up tomorrow. He is the owner/user of it and did vinyl banners. He stated it does not have reverse. So, what did I get myself into? What weight of leather can I do with this? Dos and Don'ts of this machine? Its capabilities and pros/cons? Thank you all, Dave

Hi Troy, Yes, I meant setting it up to function correctly and learn the machine. Not the actual physical part of setting it up. Mills, lathes, and gantry cranes are a little heavier. lol. I have been researching, reading, and learning as much as I can so I'm not totally flying blind when I get this thing. Just found out fiancee's uncle has been doing upholstery for the last couple years and got to check out his new Juki last night. Hopefully I'll hang out with him more as he is the only one around here that I personally know that sews. Awesome! I'll be stopping there in the next week or two to check them out and meet the company. So, much like some handtools, these are made in 1 factory and slapped with a different paint color and name badge, huh? Fine by me as long as they didn't skimp on it.

Thanks Wiz. I do have loading dock access at my buddies place. So, considering I'm a newb on these, is set-up all that difficult? Reading, YouTube, and the collective knowledge on here would suffice? (I suppose if I could do welders, plasma cutters, lathes and mills, I can figure out a sewing machine)....but as of right now I'm flying blind and have no circle of friends that know a thing about sewing machines. I just don't want to shoot from the hip and make costly mistakes during the learning curve.

Hey everybody, Thank you for the replies. Looks like I have a few more pennies to save to get one. Any recommendations of where to get one in Southern California?

Hi all, Been researching threads like this...http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=54178 and others. I like doing HEAVY leather work, but have mainly been using copper burr rivets. It's time to get a machine. From home and shop furniture to stuff for the 4x4 camping rig, and come next year we'll be in Montana, where all kinds of things will get leather: including tractor seats and big truck interiors etc. I do not want to stair-step on this purchase. I'd rather Buy Once, Cry Once. So, I think the Cowboy CB5500 with the 25" arm could be a lifetime machine. Am I correct in assuming this? If this is a good/great machine should I buy used or new? (Assuming I found a used one). I don't mind spending $3,400 or whatever for a new one IF a used one for $2,500 can bring me hours and hours of headache or chasing problems down a rabbit hole. (I'd love to get what Wizcrafts pointed out in the other thread, the ~$6,000 Campbell Randall needle and awl machines, or the Adler 205-370 (~$6,000), but that's a tad more than I want to spend right now.) What do you guys have to say about these ideas? Link to Cowboy CB5500 http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb5500.html Thanks, Dave

Thanks for the replies, everyone. Any other thoughts on the unidentified creaser? AWHarness. I don't plan on making harnesses so I'll sell the press and clamps. However, shipping is going to be a good chunk. That Press alone weighs probably 175# as stated. But I would definitely love to see it go to someone that would use and care for it.

Art, Thanks for the reply. I've always grabbed what would be better for access as it was. I suppose I will continue to round out the collections and use them accordingly. Thanks!

Picked this up off CL the other day. Hitting a wall on a few of the items as to what they are. I passed on a huge box full of (what I'm pretty sure are) shoe / boot punches. I did not buy from the original owner, but research tells me a lot of this was probably used in Saddle making. List of what I know and don't know. Can you guys help me with the unknowns? Thanks! 1. JD Randall 18" Creaser (Known) 2. Landis Model 30 Leather Splitter / skiver (Known) 3. JD Randall Press. THIS THING IS A MONSTER! 29" handle, 24" height, 10" x 9" base, 1.75" screw, weighs about 175# (UNKNOWN) (Name? What is this used for?) 4. 14" Creaser (UNKNOWN make? Import?) 5. Heritage 8" Splitter / Skiver (Known) 6. CS Osborne 84 Splitter / Skiver (Known) 7. JD Randall. Mill Vise looking thing? Has removable steel and brass bars with curved cutouts (UNKNOWN) (Name? What is this used for?) 8. CS Osborne 86 Splitter / skiver (Known) 9. Tubular Rivet & Stud CO Model 19 P (Known) 10. JD Randall. Square base approx. 7" x 8" Two clamp type things on it. (UNKNOWN) (Name? What is this used for?) Link to my photo album below with lots of detailed pics of each machine in order. http://imgur.com/a/br51I Thanks everyone! .

I know the design and shape are different obviously. But when/where/why do you use one vs the other? ...Maybe my Google-Fu was weak with this one? (Over the years I have made almost complete sets of both with mostly CS Osborne, and some Kraeuter and Elizabeth mixed in.)

Hi all, Thanks for the comments. I should have clarified. I oiled them prior to the water log as they were extremely dry and rock hard....to the point I did not know if they were salvageable. I wanted the oil to loosen the leather up and bring it back to its natural state. Also, I was worried about super dry thread "popping" when and if I just watered and wore them. The water will allow the leather to stretch around the tight parts of my feet and when it dries it will shrink and tighten up where it's loose. I buy leather gloves that I have to force on, get wet, and work in until dry. I can grab my chalk line with them on now when working. Same type of deal with these boots. I know I will have to oil after the water treatment, and that is fine. Neatsfoot and mink are cheap. Even with the boots oiled now, the water still does the trick. I keep my Danners and RedWings oiled, and after working in wet conditions, if I take them off and let them dry overnight, they are slightly shrunken and tight the next day. But they have "memory" if you will. My main concern was/is that I did all the necessary prep to a pair of formerly neglected/forgot about boots before I water log. Thanks!

Monica, Thanks for the kind words. I did not seal the antiquing...I used the white conditioner. Is that sealing? IDK... Good call on the tips for getting a better stamp. I was smashing pretty hard and wondering why they were more faint than others I've seen. And I know just the man to ask for a marble slab.

I've always loved leather, so after I had found some nice CS Osborne punches and what not at yard sales, I decided to try my hand at leather. I built the purse in my mind first. FIgured a small ammo can was a good size, so that's where the dimensions came from. I used a very heavy weight leather from Tandy. It was "cheap" in price as it showed knicks and wear, which is exactly what her and I like, as it shows Mother Nature in perfection. I thoroughly enjoy using rivets on metal, so I chose rivets for the purse. I used copper burr rivets (very time consuming but enjoyable), and supplemented them with Buffalo Nickels and Indian Head Pennies. (My girl is part Mohawk BTW). We're dog people, so the Puppy Paw stamp was awesome. (I kinda goofed and have them going opposite ways). I didn't use the ??? tool that removes a small section of material where the bend would be. (What's that tool called?) - I still have to buy one....So, folding the edges actually made it very stiff on the bottom, which turned out to be a plus. The layout took the longest because I wanted to measure twice and cut once. lol. I have about 30 hours into this. The purse has broken in nicely. Now, she asked if I can surprise her with another one of different style for her next birthday. The girls at her work want one as well, but this is definitely a labor of love. I'm much faster at welding. Feel free to critique and give advice as I'm a newb and eager to learn. Thanks, Mohawk Dave Couple more photos....

Hi all! New to the forum. I'm a tool hound and love quality tools, gear, cast iron cookware, you name it. Anyway, I have a question concerning used boots that I bought. (I wear USA Danners and Red Wings that I bought new, but these used boots intrigued me). So, I'll C&P my post from the tool forum I'm on: Ok, stand in a bucket of water until saturated then work in new boots until dry. No problem. HOWEVER, these are USED boots. And boy, were they DRY when I got them. 10 bux at the thrift store. They are Pivetta, Handmade in Italy probably in 1970s. All leather insole..all leather everything. Screwed on soles. Scream quality. Anyway, I cleaned with saddle soap, and it soaked in and then used what felt like 2 gallons of neatsfoot oil over the last 1.5 weeks. They are now nice and full of oil and super soft. Am I ready to stand in water now? I was concerned about the threads a little, but they seem strong, and now they are oiled obviously. Any other prep I need to do before I get water logged and change socks all day? I'm new to the forum, so let me know if I'm doing everything right on here. Thanks! -Mohawk Dave