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  1. any ideas as to what the skiver blade rpm should be?
  2. Jeannie there is one other detail. some skivers have a built in clutch. so, instead of using a sewing machine motor, they use a motor that runs constantly, and has a belt that goes over to the feed drive pulley. there is where the clutch will be found. but, i think a lot of the consew skivers don't have that. it comes down to two choices then - either two motors, or a built in clutch. LD
  3. repainting a pfaff - in my book, that is a bad idea. or, at least, if were going to buy one, i'd be wary of one that has been repainted. with the original paint, the story of the machine is told through the paint. for instance, the machine you show in the photo has low miles. very low miles. if it were painted, that fact would be obscured. a repainted machine - i would assume the worst.
  4. Jeannie you will have to add a second motor to run the blade separately. it won't have to be huge. 1/4 hp, maybe 1/8. bolt it under the table. then use the servo motor to run the feed. the reason these skivers don't come with two motors - cost. LD
  5. i have both the service manual and the parts list - see attached pfaff 335 old casting parts.pdf pfaff 335 parts.pdf the service manual is too large to attach. if you send me a message with your email address enclosed, i can send the service manual peter
  6. leatherdog

    Pfaff 545 H3

    Pfaff 545 H3. Walking foot. This is the classic leather working machine. Easy to use, easy to keep running. Lasts for years and years. With clutch motor. $1200. Located in San Francisco area. photos to follow.
  7. leatherdog

    Pfaff 141

    Pfaff 141, with table stand and clutch motor. The 141 is a needle feed machine, with a roller foot instead of a sewing foot. This machine is for fancy decorative stitching, like you see on cowboy boots. $800. Located in San Francisco area. Local pickup, i'd rather not get involved in shipping. Also available, Pfaff 545. See other ad.
  8. is the needle in the center of the needle plate hole? if yes, then move the hook ever so slightly to the right. if not, then align the needle bar.
  9. i couldn't see the video, but the handle....most likely it has shaped foam rubber type product inside. kind of a dense foam thing, light weight. probably about 5 inches long, whatever width, that is, less wide than the leather, and with a curved profile. what you see on the outside is describing what is on the inside. makes sense? you won't find this kind of product laying around, so you will have to improvise. good old backyard technology to be put into action............
  10. noted. thanks for the effort....... i'll dig into that . thank you......
  11. gee, would it be possible to get copies of those? even though the 64 is different from the 370, there would be a lot in common. gotta make do with what i can get my hands on, as they say. ??
  12. i see. is it the service manual or the user's manual?
  13. Tor the 169 - yes, low miles. but, that's a lot of work to trade machines across a continent and an ocean. plus all the boxing up, and wouldn't there be electricity issues? you are on 50 cycles, we are on 60. ? anyway, the 345 i'd like to have would not be set up for binding. just handling the leather. the omac. the red light is on-off. no heat. it has a foot bar to press to make the thing go. it is a strap edge folder. you can see the opening, and it is adjustable, opens equally from the center. it is on a threaded shaft, with different threads on each side, so when you turn the black knob at the lower left, the gap either opens or closes a bit. the silver knob above it moves the folders forward or back, in or away from the roller, depending on leather thickness, preferences. you can see it is set up for center fold. there is another finger thing, with the black knob, sitting off to the side, it can be put in the chute, with the other one, and you can fold to whatever width of fold you want. makes sense? it takes stiff leather with a skived edge, or soft leather with an insert. something to fold against. great idea, we just don't use it. when we got it, it had a 50 cyl ac motor. made a nice burning smell till it died. i had it rewound to 60 cyl. very happy now.
  14. PcCowboy gee, that would be great. i just sent you an email....... Peter
  15. planing, i used to take the pad to a wood guy. block planer. but, he decided no more. you can do a crude job with a router, knocking down the high spots, which will be around the edges, the corners. the board does not have to be totally flat. but, at the beginning, the wood under it should be totally flat, and stay that way. if you let the plastic pad get too much like a bowl, it will bend the dies. all this is not the end of the world, but flat is best. the machine i use is a custom thing a machinist made for me. fly cutter on an electric motor, on a swinging arm. you won't find one like it anywhere. you can also use a belt sander, but taking a lot of plastic down with that is ugly and messy. oh, and cut evenly all over the pad. not just in your favorite spot, right in the middle. plastic in cars. well, you can stay with the cars pre mid 60s. lots of nice things there.
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