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Dan Miller

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About Dan Miller

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  • Birthday April 24

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Thousand Islands, New York
  • Interests
    leatherworking, woodworking, wood canoes, photography

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
  • Interested in learning about
    Contemporary and historical leatherwork

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  1. Hi Skip, I am also a tool collector and user (both wood and leather). I normally live in upstate NY, in the Thousand Islands north of Watertown, though I am in Australia at the moment. Whereabouts in Upstate NY are you? Cheers, Dan
  2. Well, I use the number two mallet to chop mortises in heavy timbers for buildings with a 1-1/2” framing chisel so it is probably overkill for most leatherwork. I do use it for larger round punches, key fob punches and so on. The no. 4 is really a persuader. I generally only find use for mine while timber framing - knocking joints together, riving hardwood pins with the froe and so on. Don’t think I own a no. 3.
  3. A 16oz hammer should be plenty of weight for setting rivets, etc. Probably what you need is something not rubber. The attached photo shows three of my go-hammers. The middle one, the Garland No. 1 with rawhide faces, is my main hammer for any striking of metal - rivet sets, snap sets, stitching irons, smaller punches, etc. The one on the right is a weighted rawhide mallet of about the same weight, and could be used in place. The hammer on the left is for peening copper rivets, for those times when I choose not to use a rivet set. You should be able to pick up a Garland No. 1 or similar from Ebay for about $15 For larger punches, and other general woodworking projects I have a Garland No. 2 with rawhide faces that is the bee's knees.
  4. Looks like you are off to a good start! I am just north of you - drive north until you hit the border, then take three steps back. Dan
  5. Here is mine. It belonged to my great-grandfather who was a harnessmaker in Westport, NY. I really enjoy using it. Dan
  6. I'm relatively new to all this, but I have been really happy with my Barry King medium awl handle (http://www.barrykingtools.com/handtools.htm).
  7. My awl-work was jumpstarted, IMO, by starting with Barry King awl blades. They cost $25, but come polished, sharp, and ready to use out of the box.
  8. No, Just the usual work glove you get at a hardware store for doing yard work, etc.
  9. I just started doing this. I use a heat gun, and monitor temperature with one of those temperature "guns" (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NM73DX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I take it to 150 degrees F per the Ian Atkinson video, then transferred it using a leather work glove. Dan
  10. I'm just learning hand-stitching myself, so can't really help you with your questions. I just wanted to say that I really like your tool pouches. I've also done a bit of timber framing myself. Cheers, Dan
  11. I don't for sure, but if the loop is to fit a 1" strap, it stands to reason that the outside measurement of the loop has to be more than 1" Good point though, and an email to OTB has been sent. Dan
  12. I did ask Nigel, and he suggested these links. Note that the grommet linked does not fit the loop. https://ohiotravelbag.com/products/item/1ef8241d-2d39-4f67-89d8-e93e074d3cad/P-2742-NIC https://ohiotravelbag.com/products/item/06764edb-7899-49ba-8685-0d56c528eb78/1in+Screw+Together+Eyelet+Nickel Lots of good suggestions in this thread (Thanks everyone!). Still, not finding anything that grabs me. Dan
  13. And when you order this, or anything else, from Lee Valley, you get free brown kraft paper to lay on your bench when dying leather.
  14. Thanks, Tugadude, you've given me some leads, albeit all in chrome. I'd like antique brass/bronze or nickel matte. Billybopp, yes I was was surprised, they don't, as far as I can tell.
  15. Yes, have tried Tandy, Buckleguy, Ohio Bag, Springfield, etc...
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