Dan Miller
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Posts posted by Dan Miller
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Well, I use the number two mallet to chop mortises in heavy timbers for buildings with a 1-1/2” framing chisel so it is probably overkill for most leatherwork. I do use it for larger round punches, key fob punches and so on.
The no. 4 is really a persuader. I generally only find use for mine while timber framing - knocking joints together, riving hardwood pins with the froe and so on.
Don’t think I own a no. 3.
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A 16oz hammer should be plenty of weight for setting rivets, etc. Probably what you need is something not rubber. The attached photo shows three of my go-hammers. The middle one, the Garland No. 1 with rawhide faces, is my main hammer for any striking of metal - rivet sets, snap sets, stitching irons, smaller punches, etc. The one on the right is a weighted rawhide mallet of about the same weight, and could be used in place.
The hammer on the left is for peening copper rivets, for those times when I choose not to use a rivet set.
You should be able to pick up a Garland No. 1 or similar from Ebay for about $15
For larger punches, and other general woodworking projects I have a Garland No. 2 with rawhide faces that is the bee's knees.
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Looks like you are off to a good start! I am just north of you - drive north until you hit the border, then take three steps back.
Dan
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Here is mine. It belonged to my great-grandfather who was a harnessmaker in Westport, NY. I really enjoy using it.
Dan
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I'm relatively new to all this, but I have been really happy with my Barry King medium awl handle (http://www.barrykingtools.com/handtools.htm).
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22 hours ago, cradom said:I'm not qualified to recommend a brand but it doesn't have to be expensive. I use a Barry King with a Tandy blade (after much sharpening, will try another brand next time).
My awl-work was jumpstarted, IMO, by starting with Barry King awl blades. They cost $25, but come polished, sharp, and ready to use out of the box.
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6 minutes ago, bristolbrandedleatherco said:Oh ok! Is the leather work glove MADE of leather or specifically FOR leatherwork?
No, Just the usual work glove you get at a hardware store for doing yard work, etc.
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I just started doing this. I use a heat gun, and monitor temperature with one of those temperature "guns" (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NM73DX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
I take it to 150 degrees F per the Ian Atkinson video, then transferred it using a leather work glove.
Dan
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I'm just learning hand-stitching myself, so can't really help you with your questions. I just wanted to say that I really like your tool pouches.
I've also done a bit of timber framing myself.
Cheers,
Dan -
39 minutes ago, Tugadude said:Why do you say the grommet does not fit the loop? Do you know the actual width outside to outside of the strap loop? I would ask OTB if the two fit together.
I don't for sure, but if the loop is to fit a 1" strap, it stands to reason that the outside measurement of the loop has to be more than 1"
Good point though, and an email to OTB has been sent.
Dan
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I did ask Nigel, and he suggested these links. Note that the grommet linked does not fit the loop.
https://ohiotravelbag.com/products/item/1ef8241d-2d39-4f67-89d8-e93e074d3cad/P-2742-NIC
Lots of good suggestions in this thread (Thanks everyone!). Still, not finding anything that grabs me.
Dan
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2 hours ago, zuludog said:I use Veritas Honing compound #05M08.01.
And when you order this, or anything else, from Lee Valley, you get free brown kraft paper to lay on your bench when dying leather.
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Thanks, Tugadude, you've given me some leads, albeit all in chrome. I'd like antique brass/bronze or nickel matte.
Billybopp, yes I was was surprised, they don't, as far as I can tell.
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Yes, have tried Tandy, Buckleguy, Ohio Bag, Springfield, etc...
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See below starting at 16:38 - any help identifying the two bits of flap closure hardware and where to purchase will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Dan -
Sold, pending payment.
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For sale, Leather Secrets by F.O Baird in original box from Tandy. Large format book with 86 pages, many of which fold out one or more times. Instructions and patterns. Selling because the styles aren't really up my alley.
Asking $85 including USPS Media Mail shipping to US addresses. Paypal accepted.
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On September 6, 2016 at 8:21 PM, venator said:I desperately need to find some craft sales or something to sell at that don't cost $1500 for a booth.
Look around for various shows - the one I was at when I took the photo that started this thread was under $200 for a two-day show. It was in a small town in a touristic region.
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Bump with more photos. Anyone?
A couple more
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Here is a photo of the first arts show I did last weekend featuring my leatherwork. There are the chairs, leather boat bailing scoops and camera straps (neck and wrist). Didn't sell much, but lots of interest in the chairs.
Dan
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This tool accompanied a box lot of leather working tools (stamps, punches, edgers, etc.). Is it a leatherworking tool, and if so, what is it for?
Thanks!
Dan
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Thank you for this.
Dan
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Ah, right you are. Live and learn.
Am I correct, though, in thinking I might be able to split 1/2" to 3/4" straps with it?
Thanks!
Dan -
Received my new splitting machine today. I need to break it down, clean it up, lubricate and sharpen the knife.
I would appreciate anyone with knowledge of these things to help me identify the model (it was made by American in St. Louis). Also pointers to instructions or hints for operating would be most helpful.
Also, if possible, I plan to replace the upper feed wheel with one made of maple to avoid marring the show face of the leather.
Thanks!
Dan
new here, I'm a tool collector
in Member Gallery
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Hi Skip,
I am also a tool collector and user (both wood and leather). I normally live in upstate NY, in the Thousand Islands north of Watertown, though I am in Australia at the moment.
Whereabouts in Upstate NY are you?
Cheers,
Dan