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About rickybobby

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  • Birthday 03/05/1960

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Phoenix, Arizona
  • Interests
    Holsters, Helping others build Holsters

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
  • Interested in learning about
    Perfecting production methods and marketing
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    internet search

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  1. @MrLentz The Springfield Operator (with a rail) will work fine for molding a Holster for the Ruger SR1911 (with a rail)
  2. I have dummy guns from every maker including aluminum ones from Duncans and Boise Foundry The most consistent in size and durability are Rings Blue Guns. Of the 300 or so I have 90% are Blue Guns. Lately I've been expanding my Revolver selection all have been Blueguns Hope this helps
  3. You have done a great job on that! Each one will get a little better and a little easier. Know when to challenge yourself and also know when to keep doing a task until perfected then move on.
  4. I've done rigs with built in suspenders! For those that no longer have a waist or hips! lol!! They're shaped like an upside down pear. Nothing for a belt to tighten up on, but everything else is pushing it down!
  5. You did great saving the tooling! You can "mold" the back some to help get some retention spots.
  6. Nice work! Great job on the whole thing. The "Basket Arrow" pattern is a favorite of mine as well.
  7. John Lamberton at Desert Gun Leather in Phoenix AZ designed this for a customer. The customer runs a scope and the barrel was 12" or 14" (I don't remember exactly) It would be awkward if mounted static like a "drop loop" Holster because of length, if it didn't have a leg tie it would flop around. If you used a leg tie it would interfere with walking comfortably. So John came up with this. The belt loop and "drop" are static on the belt to carry the weight and the "Holster" has a articulating joint to allow the Holster to move with the leg. The "hinge" is a is a nut & bolt (lock washer) and good size leather washers to allow movement (sorry, no photo of that.) The "front" of the Holster was wet molded to fit over the gun first, and allowed to dry. Then sewn to the back piece. Depending on how long your barrel is this might be a consideration of your build.
  8. I line with the same 8oz veg tan used on the front so, "smooth sides out". I've not had any issues. Single layer will eventually soften or stretch. The double layer, glue & stitching is stronger and more durable. JMHO Rick
  9. Thanks for info Chief. I have been asked about the Kahr's quite a few times over the years but no "one gun" is asked for enough to buy the dummy for. I bought a group of dummy guns a year or so ago, a Kahr PM9 was in that bunch. It looks like the size/width looks the nearly the same, the main difference is barrel length. I can "Fake" that! lol!! (I forgot I had the PM9, thats how often I've used it!)
  10. Thanks for the info Dwight. I'm leaning towards this solution! I may try one, I have a band saw, files, sandpaper. Rick
  11. Thanks, I took a look at size specs & photos on their website, they are close but not close enough. I'm afraid it just wouldn't work but thanks for the offer. That is a good deal on the dummy gun! Thanks for the info!
  12. Hi, I have a customer that wants me to build a Holster for a Kahr K-9 I don't have one nor any of my friends so that is out. I have never been asked about this gun before so buying a new dummy for it ($60.00 +) I would rather not do. (I have to many already hanging on the wall not pulling their weight!) lol!! He is not local so using his gun is not an option, he is a great customer so telling him "No" is a last resort. If anyone has a dummy I can Use, Rent, Borrow, Buy..... I'll pay all shipping back and forth. I'll only need it for 2 or 3 days rick@DesertGunLeather.com
  13. To get you sewing holes punched look for "Pricking Irons" They are used in english saddle work. You use them to make the holes and may only need to widen a little with an awl on occasion. My belts are two pieces of 7/8oz. Glued & Stitched (Cobra 4) I have hand stitched belts but that was many years ago and don't anticipate going back to it. To straighten the edge on a hide for belt strips I have a 8' X 1.5" X 1/4" piece of aluminum stock. The edges were all sanded "round-ish" so it doesn't scuff the leather and a piece of Gorilla Duct Tape on the back. I lay it on the hide, put a weight on each end and the middle. Mark the straight edge with a pen. (yep, I use a blue marking pen) Then remove the straight edge and make your cut. No guide, no fence, no training wheels! Use the Force. O.K. that is a bit much. Trust yourself and your sharp knife. A couple tricks about a straight line... Don't try to make a quick correction while cutting, just keep cutting. When done with the knife, Take your draw gauge (strap cutter) and set it for 1/8" that will "clean up" your edge. Set your strap cutter to the strap size you need and go! This is by far the quickest and cleanest way I have found to get straps cut from a new hide or double shoulder. Hope this helps Rick
  14. Like JLSleather said, http://www.usacuttingdie.com Texas Custom Dies Quality Product and quick turn around. The Belt Slot Punch I had made for my holsters works with my 1 1/2" double thick gun belts. I had it done 1 3/4" X 5/16". I use a "dummy belt" when I press and wet mold my holsters so the belt slot molds right to the correct shape & size of the belt. I had it done as a Maul Punch. I think the next one will be a clicker punch... I use a 5 lb. Rawhide maul on a Farrier Anvil. To keep the punch from dinging the anvil I glued a piece of vinyl flooring to the flat surface then a 3/8" piece of hard rubber (like cutting mat) on top of that. It helps save you the time of resharpening your punches when your friends come over and "just need to punch one hole" in something and are not use to the 5 lb maul!
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