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About rickybobby

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  • Birthday 03/05/1960

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    Phoenix, Arizona
  • Interests
    Holsters, Helping others build Holsters

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
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    Perfecting production methods and marketing
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    internet search

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  1. Thank you These are "Driving Holsters" not "Concealed Carry all over the place" or "Hiking in the desert Holsters" they are best used while in a seated position. FWIW With that said, the one in these photos (WORN vs. "laying in the weeds") the Holster does stay in position. I admit, probably not permanently but, if it hits the ground it is in a Holster. "Does it stay upright like that (that's rhetorical and deliberately silly - it DOES NOT stay in that position, except perhaps when brand new and empty" BTW it is not "new or empty". This is my personal that I have worn while working all day in the shop, also while in the grocery store, etc. (all day and part of the night) for weeks for the last 2 1/2 or 3 years. I posted this to share. It's ok you don't want to build anything like this. I do, and people like them. No gun has been harmed, no one has been "shot in the guts" Thanks for looking!
  2. Wrong, that IS velcro. The North American Arms Revolvers weigh from 3oz to 7oz loaded. That is a lot less than the Bond Arms. The last Bond Arms Driving Holster I saw they had a 3/4" round circle of Hook & Loop material (Velcro) holding a much heavier gun. Mine have 1" X 1 3/4" of Hook & Loop (velcro) holding the strap. I also use a "block" of leather that locks the strap on the belt. You can unhook the velcro and with the belt block the Holster won't drop off the belt. (even a Bond Arms) On that little Holster I just didn't stitch the short run under the barrel. The stitch to the left is holding the strap on.
  3. This is my version of a "Driving Holster" for a North American Arms Long Rifle model with a 1 1/8" Barrel There is not much room to work with as far as molding the leather but I do make sure there is adequate room for the sight. Using a Thumb Break helps keep it from dropping out the back and the little molding I can do around the cylinder and barrel holds it steady so its not "flopping around" in the Holster. The Leather is #1 W&C 8oz Brown, Back (belly removed), Leveled from 10/12oz, Backside is refinished and pasted by W&C After drying from wet molding the Holster is dipped in Resolene/Water mixture 50%/50% and the edges are dyed brown with Fiebings Oil Dye then Fiebings Neutral Edge Kote applied Final operation after making sure of the fit is a light rubdown with Fiebings Aussie Conditioner Questions, Comments, Constructive Criticism are always welcome! Thanks for looking! Rick
  4. I do like my Seecamp. Once you become familiar with the little critter they are a nifty little gun. Mine is the .32acp several have told me that is the preferred caliber for that gun. Here is my version of the Pancake for the Seecamp it has a little more "style" to the lines ... Thank you! Thank you, no one wants their little gun popping out of their Holster! The ratio of leather to gun is very close! lol! Thank you
  5. These short and stubby little guns are a challenge to build sometimes. There is little on the gun body to mold leather to for "friction only" retention so I normally suggest a Thumb Break. The Leather is Wickett & Craig 8oz Russet on the main body and W&C Mahogany on the front overlay. Thread is 207 top 138 bottom in Henna from Weaver Leather. The finish is 50/50 Resolene & Water, holster was dipped to coat completely. After drying we rubbed some Fiebings Aussie Conditioner on the surface. Questions, Comments, Constructive Criticism are always welcome! Thanks for looking! Rick
  6. No trouble, thank you... I buy Leather from Wickett & Craig in PA. Leveling is done at no charge, I think refinishing the backside and pasting is .20 cents extra per foot.
  7. Thank you, it does have a different look to it. Thank you! There is an old Al Stohlman book that shows tooling rough out side of leather, I don't recall the name but I'm sure it's still in print. The Leather is from Wickett & Craig #1 Back, Russet Color. I buy 12/13oz and have it leveled to 8oz then have the back finished and pasted. The retention is very positive due to molding I would not trust it for riding Horseback or ATV's but for working in the shop and training at the Range it's fine. The back is a simple stitched belt loop. (see photos) Thank you! I've found Rough Out looks better if the hide has been split, finished & pasted. There is no hope of real hairy/fuzzy uneven rough out ever looking good!
  8. This is a style of Holster I like for using at the Gun Range. I made one Rough Out and one Smooth Out. Many Makers don't know or or don't choose to do any tooling on Rough Out, I like the look of it. I gave a friend that has a 1911 a choice of which one he wanted and he picked the smooth leather (I was happy about that, I like the Rough Out) Questions, Comments, Constructive Criticism are always welcome! Thanks for looking! Rick
  9. @MrLentz The Springfield Operator (with a rail) will work fine for molding a Holster for the Ruger SR1911 (with a rail)
  10. I have dummy guns from every maker including aluminum ones from Duncans and Boise Foundry The most consistent in size and durability are Rings Blue Guns. Of the 300 or so I have 90% are Blue Guns. Lately I've been expanding my Revolver selection all have been Blueguns Hope this helps
  11. You have done a great job on that! Each one will get a little better and a little easier. Know when to challenge yourself and also know when to keep doing a task until perfected then move on.
  12. I've done rigs with built in suspenders! For those that no longer have a waist or hips! lol!! They're shaped like an upside down pear. Nothing for a belt to tighten up on, but everything else is pushing it down!
  13. You did great saving the tooling! You can "mold" the back some to help get some retention spots.
  14. Nice work! Great job on the whole thing. The "Basket Arrow" pattern is a favorite of mine as well.
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