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Everything posted by rickybobby

  1. @MrLentz The Springfield Operator (with a rail) will work fine for molding a Holster for the Ruger SR1911 (with a rail)
  2. I have dummy guns from every maker including aluminum ones from Duncans and Boise Foundry The most consistent in size and durability are Rings Blue Guns. Of the 300 or so I have 90% are Blue Guns. Lately I've been expanding my Revolver selection all have been Blueguns Hope this helps
  3. You have done a great job on that! Each one will get a little better and a little easier. Know when to challenge yourself and also know when to keep doing a task until perfected then move on.
  4. I've done rigs with built in suspenders! For those that no longer have a waist or hips! lol!! They're shaped like an upside down pear. Nothing for a belt to tighten up on, but everything else is pushing it down!
  5. You did great saving the tooling! You can "mold" the back some to help get some retention spots.
  6. Nice work! Great job on the whole thing. The "Basket Arrow" pattern is a favorite of mine as well.
  7. John Lamberton at Desert Gun Leather in Phoenix AZ designed this for a customer. The customer runs a scope and the barrel was 12" or 14" (I don't remember exactly) It would be awkward if mounted static like a "drop loop" Holster because of length, if it didn't have a leg tie it would flop around. If you used a leg tie it would interfere with walking comfortably. So John came up with this. The belt loop and "drop" are static on the belt to carry the weight and the "Holster" has a articulating joint to allow the Holster to move with the leg. The "hinge" is a is a nut & bolt (lock washer) and good size leather washers to allow movement (sorry, no photo of that.) The "front" of the Holster was wet molded to fit over the gun first, and allowed to dry. Then sewn to the back piece. Depending on how long your barrel is this might be a consideration of your build.
  8. I line with the same 8oz veg tan used on the front so, "smooth sides out". I've not had any issues. Single layer will eventually soften or stretch. The double layer, glue & stitching is stronger and more durable. JMHO Rick
  9. Thanks for info Chief. I have been asked about the Kahr's quite a few times over the years but no "one gun" is asked for enough to buy the dummy for. I bought a group of dummy guns a year or so ago, a Kahr PM9 was in that bunch. It looks like the size/width looks the nearly the same, the main difference is barrel length. I can "Fake" that! lol!! (I forgot I had the PM9, thats how often I've used it!)
  10. Thanks for the info Dwight. I'm leaning towards this solution! I may try one, I have a band saw, files, sandpaper. Rick
  11. Thanks, I took a look at size specs & photos on their website, they are close but not close enough. I'm afraid it just wouldn't work but thanks for the offer. That is a good deal on the dummy gun! Thanks for the info!
  12. Hi, I have a customer that wants me to build a Holster for a Kahr K-9 I don't have one nor any of my friends so that is out. I have never been asked about this gun before so buying a new dummy for it ($60.00 +) I would rather not do. (I have to many already hanging on the wall not pulling their weight!) lol!! He is not local so using his gun is not an option, he is a great customer so telling him "No" is a last resort. If anyone has a dummy I can Use, Rent, Borrow, Buy..... I'll pay all shipping back and forth. I'll only need it for 2 or 3 days rick@DesertGunLeather.com
  13. To get you sewing holes punched look for "Pricking Irons" They are used in english saddle work. You use them to make the holes and may only need to widen a little with an awl on occasion. My belts are two pieces of 7/8oz. Glued & Stitched (Cobra 4) I have hand stitched belts but that was many years ago and don't anticipate going back to it. To straighten the edge on a hide for belt strips I have a 8' X 1.5" X 1/4" piece of aluminum stock. The edges were all sanded "round-ish" so it doesn't scuff the leather and a piece of Gorilla Duct Tape on the back. I lay it on the hide, put a weight on each end and the middle. Mark the straight edge with a pen. (yep, I use a blue marking pen) Then remove the straight edge and make your cut. No guide, no fence, no training wheels! Use the Force. O.K. that is a bit much. Trust yourself and your sharp knife. A couple tricks about a straight line... Don't try to make a quick correction while cutting, just keep cutting. When done with the knife, Take your draw gauge (strap cutter) and set it for 1/8" that will "clean up" your edge. Set your strap cutter to the strap size you need and go! This is by far the quickest and cleanest way I have found to get straps cut from a new hide or double shoulder. Hope this helps Rick
  14. Like JLSleather said, http://www.usacuttingdie.com Texas Custom Dies Quality Product and quick turn around. The Belt Slot Punch I had made for my holsters works with my 1 1/2" double thick gun belts. I had it done 1 3/4" X 5/16". I use a "dummy belt" when I press and wet mold my holsters so the belt slot molds right to the correct shape & size of the belt. I had it done as a Maul Punch. I think the next one will be a clicker punch... I use a 5 lb. Rawhide maul on a Farrier Anvil. To keep the punch from dinging the anvil I glued a piece of vinyl flooring to the flat surface then a 3/8" piece of hard rubber (like cutting mat) on top of that. It helps save you the time of resharpening your punches when your friends come over and "just need to punch one hole" in something and are not use to the 5 lb maul!
  15. I copied the list and deleted the dummies that sold (and verified by buyer on this thread they arrived). I'm only trying to help the thread, contact @Davis for accurate list. Here is the list with verified SOLD items removed as per thread. • ruger Blackhawk 357 6.5" • ruger blackhawk 44 7.5" • fm-hi power 9 • fnx 9 • colt python • steyr m9 • bersa thunder 380 • cz 75b • cz sp01 9 picotiny rail • cz 75 p-07 9 picotiny rail • pw arms p-64 9 • rhino 2" • walter pps 40 • walter pk 380 • walter ppq • walter ppk/s 9 • mp 45 • sw 629 6" • sig p239 • sig p250 • sig p229 • sig p220 • sig p230 • sig p238 • sig 938 • sig p250 4.5" • sig sp 2340 • sig p226 • 1911 colt 5" • 1911 springfield a1 45 5" • 1911 commander 4.25" • glock 36 45 • glock 30 • glock 30 45 • glock 34 9 • glock 17 9 • kahr pm9 • kahr cw9 • Taurus millennium pt 140 pro 40 • Taurus pt 145 pro • Taurus judge laser 2" • Taurus pt 40 • Taurus judge 2" • kahr cw 45 • Taurus judge 3" • smith Wesson gov 2.75" • ruger p95 dao • lc9 • lc9 crimsm trace laser • lcp • lcp laser • ruger sp 101 2.75" • ruger speed six 2.5" • colt single action 6.75" • ruger red hawk 7.5" • sr 9c • lcp • sr40 • ruger gp 100 4" • ruger lcr • xd 40 tatical • sr 45 • ruger p90 • ruger p89 • xd m-9 • xd m-40 • xdm • xds • xd-40 sub compact • ruger vaquero 5.5" • xd-45 acp • xd-40 • hk-usp 45 • hk-45 • hk-usp 9/40 • hk p30 9 • hk usp compact 9 • beretta nano • mp shield 9 • mp 9 • beretta tomcat • mp 40c • smith Wesson 6906
  16. I would think it was the USMC black (I just don't seem to get along with it, It seems to never dry completely) but, that is me. I have found that most black dyes have pigment that is left on the surface after solvents have flashed off. It helps to "Buff" the surface before applying any topcoat finish using any color but especially BLACK. Doing do pulls the extra powder pigment off your leather surface. That may be what we are seeing in your photo, the extra pigments being moved around by the resolene. If you buffed it before resolene application, you may look at the age of the product then as the issue. Hope that helps, Rick
  17. RoperDKC It depends on the "Look" you want your item to age with. If you leave veg-tan totally without anything on it the "patina" will take a "worn leather" body oil, stains from whatever gets on it from life and/or work. It will take a while but some like that. By using only oil, (I only have experience with this using Pure Neat Foot Oil). Using a couple light coats on only the smooth surface will darken it a little, It will patina from handling much like above. If a darker natural brown is wanted, Lay it in the sun for a few hours after oiling. It will get a very rich redish brown if it is "good" leather. If you choose to use the "rough out" side as the outside, use one even coat of NFO and let it be natural. What ever patinas and stains is just part of life. Thats what is cool about rough out ;-) Rick
  18. @Davis All 7 of mine arrived quickly. Thank you for your prompt shipping! Most appeared to be used, a couple looked "Brand New"/Never Used Thanks for the opportunity to buy these. Rick
  19. @Davis Payment sent for these 7 dummy guns FN 40/9 Bersa Thunder Sig Mosquito Kimber Solo Ruger Redhawk 2.5" Kahr P380 FNX 9 Paypal sent Thank you, Rick 623 271-3309
  20. Hi, I would like ... FN 40/9 Bersa Thunder Sig Mosquito Kimber Solo Ruger Redhawk 2.5" Kahr P380 I can pay by PaPal or how would you like to handle Payment??? PM Sent Rick
  21. Just curious, it appears that the only "Blue Gun" available is the .22lr mini. Do they have others available?? I called Duncan's and got their last NAA Black Widow .22 Magnum Dummy a couple months ago. I bought a few of these guns to build holsters with but if there are dummy guns for some of the 4" models I would get those instead. (like I needed a reason to buy guns! lol!!)
  22. Thanks for the info Frank. I checked every place else and forgot about them! Rick
  23. I make quite a few Breast Collars for Team Ropers. Making a piece of leather for the Tap Off the same size as the Breast Collar worked best for my use. This way the ends where the piece folds over is marked as well. Here is some tips for making them. Photos are from one I use for Breast Collars. They can be small for only a flower or leaf or large for a whole Stirrup Fender. The Name stays the same on every one. I left the end open for doing different tooling themes/patterns and the boarder has some open space for different tooling. I'm not very "artsy" so I had to draw out my pattern then reverse it with transparent paper and re-draw it backwards on transfer material (frosted pattern material from Tandy). I cased the piece that is going to be the Tap Off and traced the "Backwards" pattern on. When moisture was perfect for swivel knife I cut out the "reverse" pattern. (doing letters backwards was a challenge!) You always doubt what your doing! After letting the new "Tap Off" dry completely I used Lacquer based clear to seal it (Wyo Sheen). After that dried I used a spray can of Urethane Clear and sprayed a couple light coats on. This seals the piece from moisture that may close the knife cuts. After cutting out the Breast Collar, I case the leather that will be the final piece. While that is wet (pretty wet!) I lay the Tap Off on the piece to be tooled and using a smooth hammer "Tap" the pattern on the wet leather. Using the "raised" lines as your swivel knife cutting then tool as usual. The Tap Off's really help speed work time for repeating patterns that you use a lot.
  24. I'm not sure if you mean to make them? or to cut the piece off of the hide? I use a solid blade box cutter on sheet metal as a cutting base to cut them off of the hide. The Chuck Smith swivel knife to cut the pattern. Cased properly the cut will remain very wide open. Then I use spray can clear urethane to seal the surface (after it was dry from casing) Rick
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