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CampbellRandall

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Posts posted by CampbellRandall


  1. 3 hours ago, Singermania said:

     

    I guess we are always going to have some elitest sales talk on this site, as far as I can see the Chinese machines are straight copies of the Fortuna

     

    Singermania - I'm not trying to be an elitist or cause contention. I was simply stating that the only parts directly interchangeable are the feet and feed stones, as you noted. The mechanics on the Asian skivers are different and not interchangeable with Fortuna. The Asian skivers also have different feed system than the Fortuna / FAV machines (independent clutch or variable speed from the knife).

    From a distance a KIA might look like a BWM, but that does not make them the same. The Asian machines are a fine solution for many people - our customers are mostly high production / high demand industries so we have different needs. No insult intended. 


  2. On 10/30/2016 at 4:11 AM, Singermania said:

    Yes another fairly standard Fortuna style skiver, I'd be surprised of the bell knife and other main components aren't interchangeable with Fortuna and other clone bottom feed skivers.

    The only parts that remain somewhat interchangeable in the skiving world are blades and accessories (feet, feed wheels etc). Grind stones, belts, general replacement parts differ across the brands.The Asian skivers, in my opinion, are copies of copies - more imitations than clones. FAV follows the Fortuna design (the industry benchmark) better than any other machine on the market. FAV is still made in Italy, 60 years under the same family, with most parts directly interchangeable with the classic Fortuna skivers (current generation Fortunas are on a different platform). We sell and support both FAV and Fortuna brands. Fortuna is a fantastic machine, but few can afford the new cost. FAV is a strong contender in factory production and a good value. 


  3. Two motors are necessary!

    With two motors mounted under the table, yes. A constant speed motor for the bell knife shaft and a servo motor connected to the feed roller shaft. The feed roller shaft and the bell knife shaft are connected with a V belt inside the back side of the machine. With a creative placement of the motors (under the table) and the belt slots cut in the table, you can achieve this setup. However, not with a one motor setup only, like some new Fortuna and Italian made skiving machines offers. I would use a small servo motor/ gear motor etc. for the feed roller shaft. You have to do some modefications, like replacing the motor position and cut new belt slots in the table for a start. It's not only to bolt on an extra motor.

    Tor

    I agree. Most the machines we sell have a feed system independent of the knife because they do a much better job when trying to control the work.

    The basic machines can be adapted to use more than one motor, but it can get messy fitting the table with all the extra slots, belts and motors. The OEM machines are already designed for multi-motor setups.


  4. Thanks, for explaining this in the forum, I know there have been other topics with the same question before.

    Another question,

    Just bought bought an older Fortuna band knife splitting machine (rebuilt once). Getting it in the workshop this week. Should be in working order with a new knife. Bought from a recently closed down furniture factory here in Norway. (Do not know the model number yet). However, I think it is a 320 mm. splitting width and bottom feed. If I should need any parts for it later, are you supporting/supplying these machines?

    Thanks

    Tor

    Yes - we are a stocking distributor for Fortuna and other original machine manufacturers. Sounds like this could be an AV/AS320?


  5. I see this is an old topic, did you buy that Fortuna copy. There are many different models of the Fortuna skiving machines, same goes for Italian, Japanese and Chinese machines. There is an Fortuna model with inbuilt clutch for the roller speed. I belive that can be set up with one motor only. Myself I have an Italian machine with three motors in its set up. One for the constant speed of the bell knife, a small inbuilt servo motor for the roller and one motor for the exhaust fan. This machine do not look like a regular Fortuna model either. For those regular Chinese Fortuna clones with bottom feed, I do believe you need two motors. I could be possible to change the belt gear inside them to get a lower feed roller speed related to the bell knife. It looks like some of them have three different pulley sizes inside. You could contact Dan Naegle in Campbell Randall leather machine company http://www.campbell-randall.com/about/contact/ and ask him. I knows all there is about setting up such machines. He sells and service Fortuna and Italian skiving machines. He will tell you what's possible to set up and not.

    Good luck

    Tor

    As Trox explained, there's a wide variety of options with OEM European skiving machines.

    • The Fortuna 50S includes a mechanical clutch in the head, allowing the knife to operate as high speed, and the clutch controlling the feed independently.
    • The Fortuna V50S is the basic models designed to use a clutch motor. The knife and feed are connected into one drive, so as you slow the feed, the knife slows, reducing the cut quality
    • We also sell the Italian made FAV skivers, available in a variety of systems.

    The Asian skivers offer only the most basic feed system. Nippy was one of the original companies to copy "build a machine inspired by" an old Fortuna design (later copied by the Chinese). You will find the only parts compatible with a Fortuna are the knives, feet and feed wheels. Everything else is different.

    Your local vendor would have to be creative in mounting the motors, because there is simply not enough room to put everything under the table using generic motors. You either need a mechanical clutch system (only found on the OEM machines) or a small gear head motor with a modified machine head.


  6. If you look at their belts, it looks like they are making impressions at the stitch holes. It gives an interesting look.

    The heating element has two wires (I believe). There might be a coaxial system to deliver electricity to the heating element like the filiteuse manuelle.

    Like BigMatt said, this is strictly for decorative stitching, invented for a different look but no real function

    Kind of like the old harness feet with overstitch points, but coarser and with heat.

    Here is a close up where you can see the heater cartridge inserted into the side of the foot and the dark indentions around the stitch hole.

    zamac-marca-punto.jpg

    cucire-marca-punto.jpg

    cintura-marca-punto.jpg


  7. I have checked for months, Randall-Campbell are out of stock on all Schmetz 794 system leather point needles. The "Out of Stock" appears at checkout. Just FYI.

    jr

    JREESER1 - We discovered a problem with our website link to store inventory. All should be updating now.

    If you see any other issues, please let me know... thanks for checking the website!


  8. On actual projects I am using saddle soap, water, and a bit of quick slick from Sheridan before applying the paint. I wipe that down before applying the paint

    Your process is the problem.

    Don't approach edge paint with the same technique as you would for burnishing raw veg-tan leather. If you are using saddle soap, waxes, oils, or gum, this will not only seal the pores of the leather (which will not give the paint something to hold onto), but the oils and waxes will repel the water based paint. Alcohol and oil dyes are designed to penetrate. Edge paints are designed to cover.

    With this in mind, I have found the best process would be...

    • STEP 1 - Base Coat
      • You need to build up a smooth sealed surface, so the first step would be apply the primer (AR6250) or color coat to the raw leather edge and let it dry.
      • Think of this as a primer coat on a car paint job.
    • STEP 2 - Burnish / Smooth the Edge (i.e. sanding the primer)
      • You can use a burnishing machine (or sand by hand with fine paper) or hot glazing process, depending on the type of leather.
      • Burnishing is recommended for firm leathers such as veg tan, while hot glazing (with hot irons) is better for soft leathers like chrome tan.
    • STEP 3 - Color Coat
      • Build up your layers, paint & burnish until you are happy with the finish.
    • FINAL STEP
      • Apply a final color layer and let dry - or -
      • Use the AR6350P or UW series clear coat to seal if desired

    Our company imports and distributes Fenice Edge paints (since 2006) as well as the machines for factory use.

    We have a wider variety of colors and options than Tandy, and our prices are even better.

    Since we haven't been advertising on the site I try not to jump in with self promotions.

    With interest in this paint picking up maybe its time I get in touch Johanna.


  9. Barbour's is now owned by Coats, which is an international company "with manufacturing plants in over 70 locations and sales and distribution in many more."

    Original Barbour's used Irish linen, but the plant closed in 2006 (LINK). Current production is multi-national from harvesting the flax to finished thread.

    The "Red Hand" is a North American trademark, sold SOFT (untreated). This is what we get from Coats today, in the same red box but made in USA.

    Coats also offers "Yellow Label", but I have not seen it offered in North America. I assume this is common in Europe.


    • 1000H system

      • measures 73 mm from the top of the eye to the back of the shank, with 2.5 mm dia shank

    • for Singer 7B, Seiko SLH, Adler 120-17 or -37....

    1001 system

    • measures ??? don't know. It's so old it's not in my charts

    for all other Adler 120 series

    331 system

    • measures 82.5 mm from the top of the eye to the back of the shank, with 2.3+ mm dia shank

    for Pearson, Landis 1 etc... now obsolete


  10. Needle and awl machines were developed long before synthetic threads (pre WWII) and therefore were originally used with natural threads like cotton or linen. Natural fiber threads should be waxed using the machine wax pot, but they should never be ordered pre-waxed if intended for use in any machine - that creates a mess and more problems. The quality of the thread is also important for consistent stitches.

    Nylon is more common, as it's slightly cheaper, but a good polyester is preferred in needle and awl machines. Its not so much the feel of the the thread but the stretch. If you were to pull on a few feet of both nylon and polyester, you'll find the nylon stretches much more. This will cause problems in heavy stitchers. The needle and awl machines pull much tighter stitches than modern single needles (a thread break system vs tension disks), and the stretch eventually causes backlash and twists that will result in skipped stitches, knots and breaks. Nylon also retains its shape more the polyester, so as you get to the bottom of the spool, this problem is magnified as the coils feed through the machine. This is why we developed a side feed thread rack fro the Campbell.

    Also important to note, always use left twist threads in straight needle machines, both single needle and needle & awl versions. Right twist is primarily for curved needle (shoe) machines. Braided thread will work in any machine.


  11. I would recommend moving the blade back a hair. You can use the the alignment groove - simply roll the groove to top center, then slightly back. Push the roll up to the blade and lock the blade in position parallel with the groove. The offset will allow you to bite into the material better.

    It sounds as like a little bit of honing is all you need. These large splits are not the easiest as it is pushing the limits of the machine.

    Thank you for bringing the condition to my attention. We will have a discussion about this with both the shop and shipping department. Let me know if we can help with anything else.


  12. Anyway I'm not asking for anything in return or refund, just tell me how to get it to split 7 inch so that I don't regret this hefty purchase.

    Pull through machines are widely used for strap work. The blade size does not always equate to splitting potential as this is contingent more on the firmness of the leather as well as the strength and steady hand of the operator. It will take a great deal of force to pull 7" of leather through any machine. We have continued to make the Keystone with the 8" blade as they have been made for over 100 years, with the main purpose being the user can continue to work across new sections of the blade as it dulls without the need to remove and sharpen as often. You can split wide pieces, but be prepared to constantly hone the blade edge and increase your forearm strength. Parts of this size should really be split in a power splitter, but not everyone can afford such a machine. Please consider that workmanship and quality of the materials can take you so far, but we are fighting the physics and pressure of a large split. It is hard to do on a manually pulled machine.

    In regards to the blade position, I would recommend pulling the blade back off center (toward the pull side) to allow a better bite. You will also need to take the large pieces in multiple passes.

    post-6741-0-66497700-1373346556_thumb.jp

    For the example below, I split a piece of 10 oz to 1.5 oz (4 to .06 mm). The leather width varied from the full 8" down to 7". It was not easy and I had to take 4 splits. I used the sister to your machine, which was built by the same person and the same day as yours, with the same blade edge.

    post-6741-0-42881500-1373346567_thumb.jp

    post-6741-0-28034700-1373346576_thumb.jp

    We do take pride in our work. Customer satisfaction is important which is why we offer a 30-day return policy. If the machine will not work for your needs, we will take it back.

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