trash treasure

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  1. trash treasure

    Adler k204-370 issues

    Uwe had links to the manuals here :
  2. trash treasure

    Long shot...Siruba machines?

    Hi again - I'm still thinking that it might be something with the take up - That mechanism is very important for stitch formation on these machines. There are several external and internal adjustments there - The height and orientation of those guides is just one of them. But I don't think I should give you the Kansai specs for them, unless you totally strike out with Siruba. Like I said before, it could be very wrong for your machine. Speaking of that - What's with Siruba? It seems they're just dribbling out partial info, when you beg for it - I mean, if they have the manual for one of their old machines, why don't they just give it (Or sell it) to you complete, and be done? OTOH, if they don't have it, they should say so. As far as relying on what someone else's machine has for a take up adjustment, I wouldn't count on that at all, just because they say "It sews fine" - I've bought more than one used machine that was described that way, and found that it was FAR from the truth. It may be, that with the person's crazy binder set up, that's the only way they could get it to sew at all - You just don't know. The order to set up the machine for different fabric / thread would be tension first, then maybe foot pressure, if the thickness or texture was much different, and then differential last, after observing the test seams for lengthwise puckering, etc. You may be jumping around too much, in an effort to get it sewing As to it feeding at an angle, it could be a couple things - Needle bar straight? Foot straight ( These also have a sort of hinged compensating arrangement, and a forward / back adjustment)? Correct foot? There is a special, short, binder foot for these machines, that could have been swapped in at some point. Feed dogs level and square with the needle plate? I don't think just increasing the foot pressure is necessarily the correct way to fix it, unless it was VERY light to begin with - That always just makes a machine work harder, if it's not really needed. A last thought - Something like Supplex, being a "flatter" woven, vs. a softer knit, is always going to amplify any stitch irregularity - Just sayin'.
  3. trash treasure

    Long shot...Siruba machines?

    Fascinating, as Wiz (and Mr Spock) would say ....... It's hard for me to tell anything from your videos - I can't get them to play clearly enough on my computer OK, I think you may want to check the thread take up guides (second to last of your machine photos) - They need to be set very specifically , and I've found that they make a BIG difference in stitch quality - The Kansai went from randomly skipping stitches, to perfect, just by adjusting them. One very curious thing - On your machine, the take up guides (the 3 bent rods with holes at top), are set oddly, to my thinking - I have instructions for 2 of these machines, the Kansai, and a Pegasus (somewhat similar), and on both of them, the guides are set exactly OPPOSITE from yours - IE. height progression is from high outer to low inner - Opposite yours. Is your set up what Siruba calls for, or is that just the way it came? I attached a photo of the Kansai set up, so you can see what I'm talking about. I suggest you go through the adjustment for the whole take-up mechanism, and see what's what - And as you might guess, there's also an internal TIMING adjustment for it, as well as the external ones As to initial tension set up, my wife (Who is the master at this machine - I'm only the mechanic), says that you don't set EITHER upper or lower tension first - Back everything off, and then start tensioning it all up gradually - Tensions should be increased EVENLY, for the most part - If you have to tension one thread much more, then something else is most always wrong - And none of the tensions should need to be really tight - If so, look elsewhere for the problem.
  4. trash treasure

    Long shot...Siruba machines?

    Hi, again - The spreader hitting the needle thread ( I assume the right needle?) on the back stroke doesn't sound right, and especially plucking it like a guitar string - How tight do you have the needle tensions set? at any rate, I think the spreader should miss the threads, as it moves left to right. Have you checked the needle bar height? When you buy a machine like this, you have to assume it's passed through a number of hands, some of whom may have poked around in it's innards, with little understanding of what they were doing - You need to check everything........... The puckering you experienced is most likely a differential issue - Puckering ACROSS the stitch, look at tension, puckering ALONG the stitch, look at differential adjustment - We use the machine mostly for stretch knits (spandex) . Supplex (Taslan), is a nylon woven - Very different fabric, with nowhere near the stretch of spandex - The differential adjustment will be thus be quite different. Experiment, and be willing to adjust. When I go through the adjustments on an unfamiliar machine, I usually do them in the order they're printed in the manual, unless I know something particular about it. I'll be honest with you, we paid more than 3 times the price of your Siruba, for the Kansai we have, but the price and condition was not the only reasons why I chose that machine - It was that I was able to get a complete adjusters manual for the exact machine, that was the deciding factor - In fact, I had the manual in hand before we even got the machine - That alone was so important to me, that I would have passed on the Kansai, if I couldn't have that resource........ This should tell you something. And, yeah, dikman, it's a crazy stitch, and a crazy machine - The engineers that figured out how to do it must also have been crazy, or maybe, they just were driven to promote the production of tight women's leggings, and stretchy swimsuits, for some reason - Go figure
  5. trash treasure

    Long shot...Siruba machines?

    Hi again - Your stitch "looks" like there might not be enough tension on the spreader thread - The little tension unit is very similar to the one on the Kansai, and the the thread absolutely needs to feed through it , but with just a relatively light tension - Is that how you have it ? In fact, the Kansai unit does not even adjust, the way yours does, just a fixed screw holding the discs - At any rate, the tension there should be light The spreader thread should lay flat, with the back-and-forth runs lying next to each other, not being rolled over by the middle needle thread (maybe the center needle tension is also a bit tight ?), so be patient, and double check everything. Are you using the same size thread for all 5 threads ? Hard to tell from your macro photos, but they need to be the same, for most uses - I believe you can set these machines up to use different threads for certain effects, but you shouldn't worry about that at this point. One more thing - For starting out, you might check that the differential feed adjustment is set to "neutral" - Get it to sew reliably like that, before adjusting it for different fabrics - It's there to control seam stretch. If it's set way out, one way or the other, it might affect the sewing speed capability. Also - On the spreader adjustments - Is there a spreader TIMING adjustment on your Siruba ? - There is on the Kansai, but it's an internal one, and you access it from inside the arm cover - Match marks on an eccentric, that you shift one way or the other. If someone in the past has messed with that, it could really frustrate you, trying to get it right with the external adjustments. So see if your manual covers that. If you do find the adjustment off, set it to the original factory setting, and then you'll have to go BACK, and re-set all the external adjustments again . Aren't these machines FUN ? Just endless hours of entertainment ................
  6. trash treasure

    Long shot...Siruba machines?

    What I showed is close to a perfect stitch with one of these machines - The threads should lay flat across the stitch, without pulling the sides together, and with no loops outside the outer stitch lines - That's what you should aim for. Like I suggested, set it up with different colors, to see what each tension does - And, BTW, make sure you're using overlock-type thread - These machines don't like to sew with regular twist thread - It doesn't need to be expensive stuff - The cheap "Maxi-Lock" brand works fine.
  7. trash treasure

    Long shot...Siruba machines?

    I really do hope someone with more knowledge than I, can weigh in on this - I feel like I'm getting a little out of my depth here - Thanks, Wiz. The spreader could be a couple different issues - Are you actually placing the thread in the spreader before you start ? You have to do that, as it often won't pick it up the first time, without a little help. It could also be the spreader being a little out of time. Also, it looks like the machine still has a lot of lint in places - You should really blow it out with the air, pull it out with your tweezers, etc - Try and get it clean as possible. On the tensions, the best advice I can give is to start with all tensions CLEAN and working properly, set them to a minimum tension to start with, and thread each one with a DIFFERENT COLOR thread, and then practice and experiment, to see what each tension does. The machine SHOULD be able to sew off the sample, like in the video, if it's set up right - Our Kansai does it perfectly. That itself could be affected by tension - I attached a couple photos of the stitch we get from the Kansai - Keep in mind, that it took some adjustment and tweaking, and experimentation to get there - Patience, Grasshopper .............
  8. trash treasure

    Long shot...Siruba machines?

    OK - Nothing really holds the thread in the spreader - The point is shaped that way, so the spreader can pick up the thread and push it across the stitch on each pass. The thread is not actually, permanently held in the spreader. It's possible the deal with the looper is that the orbit may or may not be set up correctly - It should pass very close to the needles both front and back, but I don't think it should deflect them that much. The "orbit" describes the actual path the point of the looper takes around the needles in it's travel - It's sort of a oval-shaped path, and the orientation and timing of this path should be adjustable, with an eccentric timing crank, inside the machine - It should have match marks, that are shifted a tiny amount, forward or back, to change this timing.............. The thing is, that I can't tell you where it is on your Siruba - Probably in the upper arm, but more than that, I don't know - Sorry The "point" of the looper is just the forward-most point of the thing, and the "needle center" is the center line of the needle shank - I don't know how else to describe it............. But, as I said, those numbers (and ALL the numbers I've quoted) are for the Kansai WX series, so beware, YMMV. I think you have it threaded correctly, and the extra holes in the plate above the tensions may just be there so you can have the option of using them for certain thread types, or just to have a place to tie off different colors, so they'd be handy to change, or ...........? I don't think you'd use more than one hole of each set, normally. I wish I could help more, but I'm not a factory mechanic, and can only reference the relatively few machines I've worked on - There was a guy on here that IS a professional factory mechanic, with a lot of experience with many machine types, but he hasn't posted for a while now. I'm just afraid of leading you in the wrong direction, so PLEASE just be sure that any adjustments you make are SMALL ones, and check every time by turning the machine over by hand, to see what is happening, before putting power to it.
  9. trash treasure

    Long shot...Siruba machines?

    Thank You, Wiz !
  10. trash treasure

    Long shot...Siruba machines?

    Hi again - I hope the moderators tolerate all this, as it really has nothing to do with leather sewing....... That part in your little video is called a "looper", and I think it's set too close to the needles - It should just barely touch the right hand needle, and maybe clear the left one by 0.2mm or so - There are really 3 adjustments for this part - FRONT & BACK, HEIGHT (On the Kansai, the point should be about 1.5mm above the LEFT needle eye, when it's at the needle center), and the looper ORBIT, BUT I'm not going there on that one, as I really don't have a clue about the orbit adjustment on a Siruba, and describing the Kansai adjustments might lead you far astray - I may have done so already . And, good luck fixing your leak :~)
  11. trash treasure

    Long shot...Siruba machines?

    OK - Yes that's the inner point - The little point closest to the needles, that actually catches the thread - That's the one you measure from. Yes, you have to use both screws to adjust it - On the Kansai, the bottom of the spreader needs to be 9-11mm above the needle plate, to start with. Loosen both screws to get it in the orientation I described above - The spreader should NOT contact anything but thread, anywhere in it's travel. I didn't see that you said your manual had no info on it - I told you I need magnifying glasses ;~) Now, your real assignment is to go find yourself a proper service manual for that thing, really - If you have to pay for it, it'll still be well worth it.
  12. trash treasure

    Decision time for me.

    Buy the Consew - The Consew is a compound feed walking foot machine, and the sailrite has what's called a "jump foot" - Very different machines. The low re-sale value on the Sailrite should tell you something ...........
  13. trash treasure

    Long shot...Siruba machines?

    I just looked at your photos again, and it looks like you HAVE a manual - Doesn't it have the spreader adjustment in there? Why did I just type all that?
  14. trash treasure

    Long shot...Siruba machines?

    Bob is right - That arm is called the spreader, and it mounts where your circle is, and travels back and forth to "spread" the upper thread across the stitch. You do know, that on these machines, the handwheel rotation is CLOCKWISE - REVERSE, like a serger, right ? Now keep in mind, I have a Kansai, but it's a similar machine, making a similar stitch - On the Kansai, the spreader is adjusted so the right, inner point clears the LEFT needle by about 0.5 - 0.8mm, as it travels past from right to left on the needle downstroke. At the end of it's leftward travel, the same inner point should wind up 4.5 - 5.5mm to the left of the left needle, just before it reverses travel. I keep editing this, as I remember stuff - You have to make sure the spreader clears the thread guides - For the guide with the curved hole - At it's RIGHT travel end, the point should be approx. centered under the curved slot - So adjust the guide accordingly. For the upper, small moving guide, at the end of it's downstroke, make sure it clears the lower guide by about 1mm and is centered, or a little bit to the left of the center of the slot on the lower one. WHEW ! I've done these adjustments, and it's really not hard to do, if you have good eyes (or magnifying glasses, like I do), and some metric Allen wrenches (I see yours are just regular screws), so if you can't find more specifics for your Siruba, this will probably get you in the ballpark, hopefully. But I'd really urge you to try and get an adjuster's manual for that series, if at all possible - It'll save you a lot of grief :~) The actual TIMING of the spreader is done internally, and is supposed to be adjusted depending on the thread used. But I don't have a Siruba, and I'll not pretend to tell you about adjusting that! These machines, being self-oilers, are unfortunately going to be oily, especially as they are used and a little worn - There MAY be an adjustment for the oil feed, but I don't know on your machine - You'll just have to keep ahead of the lint, by blowing it out with compressed air - It could get messy! Just use "Lilly White" type sewing machine oil - Buy a gallon! Good Luck!
  15. trash treasure

    Do you like this presser foot?

    This is actually pretty interesting - If the modification results in that much less tension needed, then there might be a real benefit with pucker reduction for seaming some fabrics - I may have to do some experiments on my own ...........