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trash treasure

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About trash treasure

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    nw florida

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    sewing machines
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  1. Singer 7 class? Interesting stand - Looks like something for some kind of machine tool ....
  2. Auto parts stores might not have a belt of that small a cross section, but any industrial supplier will have one - I use McMaster Carr. The belt size you need is called a "3L" - Just measure the length of the old one, or around the outside of the pulleys.
  3. What's been said before - A rotary phase converter large enough run both machines, or change over to individual single phase servo motors. A VFD won't work here. Just changing over to single phase motors probably makes the most sense economically.
  4. As it's a used machine, check to make sure the timing stays the same in reverse - There's an adjustment for it, but check to be sure. It's visually obvious, if it's out, by watching the needle / hook relationship in forward and reverse - It drove me crazy on my 167, before I figured out how to fix it.
  5. Someone sawed off your toe : https://www.cutexsewingsupplies.com/search?variant=32221836935221
  6. I don't know if I can help, as I'm not familiar with that model - Does your machine have a differential feed, and if so, have you tried adjusting it to see if it changes the issue? Are the knives sharp and set right (Lower one even with the needle plate)? Feed dogs tight & level with needle plate? Presser foot down all the way and set correctly? Are the loopers clear, and not jammed up with trimmings ? One or more tensions way out of whack ? A lot of things to cause problems with a serger - Start with fresh sharp knives, first, and a different color thread in every spool.
  7. I just checked an Adler 167, a Singer 111, a Singer 153, and a Singer 211, and the outer foot contacts the feed dog on all of them - When you look at the feeding action, the outer foot is lifting as the inner foot and feed dog are moving, so it's all good :~)
  8. Success ! I followed Michiel's suggestion to adjust the upper arm eccentric, and it worked 100% - The timing now stays exactly the same, forward and reverse. I did find that I also had to adjust the feed dog lift eccentric under the bed, to bring the feed dog back up to proper level, after the stitch timing was correct, but now the machine sews PERFECTLY, forward, reverse, at any speed, with any material thickness - Thanks again !
  9. Thank you, Michiel ! I have the same problem with a 167 (Timing changes in reverse) , and it's been driving me nuts - Now maybe I have the answer :~)
  10. That's very interesting - What kind of lathe? Do you use it in the bearings (and if so, are they plain or ball / roller?), or just on the ways? I use tractor type hydraulic oil for my lathes, for the same reasons - I hate the smell of the Mobil Vactra way oil, that you're "supposed' to use. Tom, apologizing, for going off topic......
  11. HA ! Just goes to show - You can't believe everything you read ;~)
  12. One other thing about the 20U - They were never really factory machines, being sold mainly for tailoring use, so you usually find them in pretty nice shape, and not worn out from 3 shift, 24 / 7 type use and abuse.
  13. As Wiz said, the 20U is an all purpose machine - The one we have has proved excellent for many years.
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