Jump to content

trash treasure

Members
  • Content Count

    126
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About trash treasure

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    nw florida

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    sewing machines
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    google

Recent Profile Visitors

3,218 profile views
  1. HA ! Just goes to show - You can't believe everything you read ;~)
  2. One other thing about the 20U - They were never really factory machines, being sold mainly for tailoring use, so you usually find them in pretty nice shape, and not worn out from 3 shift, 24 / 7 type use and abuse.
  3. As Wiz said, the 20U is an all purpose machine - The one we have has proved excellent for many years.
  4. I see Singer 20U's pop up for sale on FB Marketplace pretty often, and often pretty cheap - A decent machine, if you don't need something really heavy duty. Better to look for a BLUE one, though, as those are made in Japan - The Gold ones are Chinese manufacture, I believe.
  5. I like the brushless servos so much, that I even use a 750w one to power a small metal lathe - It'll take a .030" cut in mild steel without slowing down. Probably voided the warranty, though
  6. Whatever it is, it looks like it would have been very useful for a job or two we've had
  7. Most excellent! That's a fine machine - You'll have many years of use from it.
  8. Here's the parts list: https://www.universalsewing.com/images2/parts_lists/all/aokko5oe.pdf If you mean the little hooks that pin into the rear of the bed, the part number is 91-029 450-15 . They're all the way down on pg. 22
  9. I did exactly that , on a Singer 111 - This is a 6" Browning sheave, made for a 3L belt, so the belt rides on the outer circumference of the pulley - A lot more comfortable to hand wheel, than a belt riding down in the groove. As long as the machine doesn't have a special shaft end for stitch length adjustment, etc, it could probably be done for most any machine, with a little work.
  10. Apologies for being totally OT - My wife used to work for one of them, Gunnar Grabaum of Wingsails, in NY state. We heard some years ago, that he had died in a crash, demo-ing a double that he was selling! Patty always used to say how much it troubled her, seeing the condition of the sails they'd get in for repair or replacement - Held together with duct tape, etc - That people would actually fly an airplane patched up like that bothered her for some reason ....... Speaking of liability, it used to be that the sail cloth suppliers (Challenge, DP, Bainbridge, etc) wouldn't sell to you, if they knew you were making UL wings - Is that still true ? Again, sorry for the thread drift - Good luck with the timing
  11. Many causes of puckering - Not only the machine - A lot of info here : https://coats.com/en/information-hub/Eliminating-Seam-Puckering
  12. Don't know how you could do it without pre-cutting it and seaming it first , and then tricky feeding through the binder. But maybe I'm missing something - I often do....
  13. I looked at the manual for this machine, and the timing instructions seem "odd". It looks like they're telling you to time the machine at the right zig zag position, but having the hook cross the needle while the needle bar is stationary, at the bottom of it's stroke , NOT after the needle has begun upward travel by 2mm, or whatever. I have NO experience with this machine, but I don't understand a timing instruction like that - The slight upward travel of the needle is what forms the loop that the hook catches on any machine I know of - That's just the way it works. But, that's not much help, as like I say, I have no experience with this one - Hopefully someone that does will chime in.......
  14. Interesting Art Deco design on that, but I wouldn't buy it - Hard enough to get parts for "normal" machines ..........
  15. Looks like the Chikon has a needle positioner, if that's a factor for you.
×
×
  • Create New...