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About HondoMan

  • Rank
  • Birthday 06/10/1964

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Oberallgäu, Bavaria, Germany
  • Interests
    Medieval Fests, Concerts, fests in general, working on me 25years old VW T3 bus, Whisky, and the Mountains

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Bags, belts, armbands, key fobs, sheaths

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  1. HondoMan

    installing ornament nails

    I do appreciate the input folks. I spoke with the client and explained this would no work. Rivets simply won't as I explained to her, using a rivet is going to look poor. Reason being, one of the holes is in the horse's head. A rivet of more than 2mm in diameter is going to cover the head. Bending the nails back is a non starter as they could potentially catch onto fabric or other items. Have a nice weekend. Cheers!
  2. HondoMan

    installing ornament nails

    fredk, the holes are ca. 1,8mm. I checked with my suppliers this morning and the smallest is 2,2mm. A 4mm head is just too large. Grand idea though, I must say mate. This does truly seem a non starter. The washer idea is no a bad one. Might be worth considering if the client won't consider another idea. For the ornament you added to your mug, it looks good. For these horse ornament, no so much. It would have an unprofessional appearence as there are only for holes. Good idea should I have something like yours above.
  3. HondoMan

    installing ornament nails

    Good morning folks, looking for a solution. A client has requested the below ornaments be added to an item. No promises made, but an offer to experiment. Seems a non starter. The brass nails are 15mm long and need to be cut down to 5,5 mm. The issue is having the nails peen (mushroomed or domed) in order to be held in place in the leather. I've tried various hammers to include a ball peen, each time the nail bends. The only means to hold or support the wee nails is within the leather (4mm harness). Heating the nails slightly did FA. It would seem a press would be in order to slowly put pressure down directly. Perhaps there is another means. Anyone have experience or ideas on this? Would be truly appreciated. Cheers!
  4. HondoMan

    Finishing Edges

  5. HondoMan

    Leather basics - understanding

    Seems this is non-starter. The idea here is to provide a one-stop place for beginners where they can better make a decision on leather purchase. A concise webpage where one can decide on the correct leather to project. If we all went back in time, we'd do right to recall the frustration of sorting this out. There are videos, books, magazines, etc. But again, not concise. Not an issue? Go to any FB group and read the comments and posts by beginners. All are near the same. The cannot work through the myriad of information to make an informed decision. Well, seems I'll take another approach to this.
  6. I am in several Facebook groups for leather working in the UK and Germany (where I live). There is one question that is posted most often: 'Hi everyone. I'm new to leather work and I want to make a bag, wallet, knife sheath, etc., and I don't know what leather to use' or something similar to that. We've all seen and read these. Here in this forum as well. More importantly, we've all been there! Why is that? I feel after doing some research, that no website or book exists that really breaks this down to assist the beginner. So, they all end up doing what we did when we began. Go back in time. Do you recall the first piece of leather you bought for a project only to discover after giving up what little money you had, that is was not the correct leather? I do! Imagine the beginner who wants to make a wallet and orders 3mm (7-8oz) bridle leather, has no splitting machine most like, or the one who wants to make a knife sheath and orders chrome tanned leather or belly. While there are feelings towards each type of leather (back, belly, sides, neck, shoulder) nothing is 100% off limits. Except chrome. I really dislike chrome. Ok, not bad for a wee tobacco pouch. But I refuse to use my good knives to cut it. So, I am considering building a proper webpage that goes into depth on this to assist not just the beginner, but everyone. To do that, I would like input from as many people as possible. Johanna has a great post that, while 12 years old, has some great info and should be included (with her permission of course). There is also the Tandy photo most of us have seen: HewlpHelpful, but does not provide enough information for a beginner. I can well imagine a beginner buying a piece of bridle leather thinking they can tool it with a swivel knife. In the UK, there is Le Prevo that also assists in this endeavor, but again falls short. http://www.leprevo.co.uk/hides.htm There are, however, numerous books and websites that breakdown the sections of an animal (bend, shoulder, sides, belly, etc). But falls short of indicating what each section is best for (project or item). And therein is my goal. With the information provided by Le Prevo, Johanna, Tandy and others, having a site where a beginner can look and make an intelligent determination on what leather to order from a tannery or shop. Leaving it to the salesperson to determine for you is not wise, as we all know. There will always be that one salesperson that might take advantage of a beginner and sell them the wrong leather, just to get it off their shelf. 99,99% of leather sales people are brilliant! There's always that one odd duck. Of course, if there is a tannery nearby or a proper shop, going there to learn is brilliant. I live in a rather remote part of Germany at the foot of the alps. While there are cows everywhere, no tanneries and no shops. I have never made a saddle, harness, bridle, etc. I can't mostly due to German guild laws. I also cannot make clothing. So, my knowledge is centered on accessories - bags, wallets, belts, key fobs, armbands, knife sheaths, medieval and allgäu items, etc. So, what is needed? What do you normally make from: Belly: Sides: Neck: Shoulder: Croupon / Butt: Back: I, like most, don't care for belly. However, I do make medieval belt-bags from belly. The leather is very malleable and looks aged or used. To better state this, if one was to make a biker wallet, what leather do you normally use? Do you use butt for the outside and shoulder for the inside? We are all different. Adding to this, we know that bridle and harness leathers are a tanning process. As are russet, latigo, skirting. etc. But let's break these down. What do you normally use these for: Bridle: Harness: Russet: Latigo: Skirting: Tooling: Others? I've little to no knowledge on russet, latigo and skirting. I've never ordered them, so have no idea. What are they best for and does anyone have knowledge on the tanning process of these? The information on russet is inconsistent. Once I've gathered enough ideas and opinions on this, I'll build a webpage and have everyone look it over. When done, I'll put it online. I appreciate everyone's willingness to participate in this. When done, this might also be worthy of a permanent place in this forum. Cheers!
  7. HondoMan

    3D printer recommendations

    This seems like more effort than I was hoping. I appreciate your insights. Perhaps I'll wait a few years and revisit this idea. Cheers!
  8. HondoMan

    3D printer recommendations

    Had a thought last weekend regarding a 3d printer. Since then, been watching YouTube videos and trying to learn about 3d printing as I know FA about them. Is this idea feasible? I thought it nice when a customer arrives in me shop with, for example, a knife or a pen set and rather than leave these with me for weeks, I scan and print them to use for a custom sheath or case? The customer takes their item along with them. It would seem that I could theoretically print patterns as well. I generally use poster board, but the smaller pieces either get lost or tear and the larger pieces wear after time. A plastic 3d printed pattern would last longer and it's additional weight would offer less chance of moving or sliding and hold the leather down as well, albeit a wee more than poster board. I do worry that with a knife, the 3d printed blade would be to slim or flimsy to work with and essentially break whilst working with it for a proper fit into the leather. Is this idea really doable or is this really as complicated as some of the videos I've watched indicate? I am truly interested. One other thing is all the printer upgrades that seem to be needed. Seems one buys the printer, scanner, and programme, but the printer seems to warrant upgrades to make them better. Is that true as well? Thank you all in advance for the thoughts. Cheers!
  9. HondoMan

    Maths equation circle and stamps

    @Instinctive, I know neither the number of stamps nor a diameter. All me to explain it this way. If I have a stamp with a length of 5mm or 10mm, I know that straight lines with a length divisible by 5 or 10 (20cm, 40cm, 100cm, etc.), will allow me to stamp along this line with no gaps at the beginning or end. With that said, mate, I have the same 10mm stamp and I want to use it around a circle. I need a mathematical formulae to determine possible circumferences so there is no gap between stamps around the end of the circle. If I wanted to put circles inside circles with a stamp along the edge or between circles, I would need to know several circumferences. This is what I am on about.
  10. HondoMan

    Maths equation circle and stamps

    Apologies for the late response.... the responses are truly appreciated. As an example, I want the stamp below to fit properly around a circle. I have yet to make the circle on leather. I know the stamp has a length of 13mm, and I would like to know what diameter or circumference would be feasible so the stamp fits properly. Imagine one makes the second to last stamp and there is an 9mm or 10mm gap. That last stamp won't fit. What mathematical equation would assist? Cheers!
  11. Odd title. Odd indeed. I must be getting old and my maths were a very long time ago. Seems there is an equation to solve this wee riddle. Let's say I have a stamp that is 0,8mm long. I need a circle in which the stamp will fit nicely without a gap between the first and last. In order to figure out possible diameters, what would the equation be? I can't for the bloody life of me recall. Anyone? Cheers and have a nice start to the coming week, ~ Hondo
  12. HondoMan

    Slippery Needles Makes Hard Hand Stitching

    A two-years old thread, but people do come back to read.... me two-cents.... had a student with me the other day and she was having this issue. I clarified the issue she was having and it made me look here. There can be numerous issues if one is having to tug on the needle and fingers are not gripping the needle 1. Most like, the holes are not large enough. Either the stitching irons are too small for the thread or the awl is not sharp or large enough. 2. Has the thread 'knotted' behind the eye? A loop behind the eye assist in this and if it has knotted, that comes from tension while pulling on the thread. I refer to this as a small fist. One is attempting to pull a fist through the hole. Mind the loop. 3. If using a stitching iron, when were the holes made? I've seen countless times, people make the holes on a Thursday and won't stitch until Friday. Bad practice indeed. Not long after the holes are made, they are starting to close. Don't make your holes at 4pm, knowing you're going to call it quits at 5pm. 4. Needles and thread need to be paired with the stitching or pricking iron and awl. If the holes are too small, one will struggle to get the needle and thread through if they are too large for the holes made. 5. From what point is one stitching in regards to the stitching clam? If the hole to be stitched is 3cm above the jaws, the leather is too flexible. Move it down closer to the jaws of the clam. It's more stable and the needles will not struggle through the hole. 6. Pliers are nice to have, especially when back-stitching. Best ones to have are dental pliers. The metal is softer, without grooves or teeth in the jaws and some don't fully close. They won't mark the needles and they are relatively inexpensive.
  13. HondoMan

    Anyone talked to Terry att Knipknifes?

    I have heard nothing from him either. I ordered knives back in November and have nothing since. I too emailed last week...*crickets*. I too live in Europe and a phone call to the US is not cheap and there is the time difference.
  14. Something I learned from Nigel Armitage last year. The yellow page was done quickly, but the process is simple. The more straight lines you cut, the smoother and rounder your circle or rounded edge will become. I use heavy washers as seen in the photo. Enough weight to keep it from moving, then drawing the knife in straight lines using the washer as a guide, my edges are round and smooth.
  15. Have a request from a lass for a 5cm wide belt...in white! Wonderful. I did me best to have her change her change her mind, but no. I think the only company left with white is Tarrago. I've used Tarrago once before and found them ok. I'll see how white fares and leave a note here. Would anyone have an idea on who to achieve...an antique look in white? The lass asked, if possible, to have the effect of 'shabby chic' if possible. The things I do for customers! Cheers,