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About HondoMan

  • Rank
  • Birthday 06/10/1964

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Oberallgäu, Bavaria, Germany
  • Interests
    Medieval Fests, Concerts, fests in general, working on me 25years old VW T3 bus, Whisky, and the Mountains

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Bags, belts, armbands, key fobs, sheaths

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  1. Aye.... mah gran referred to our cousins in the colonies as gummies. Never knew why, til she passed. Mah auntie told me it was due to the chewing gum. As a wee bairn I was rather daft. I would make a wee remark about the deep fried, but FFS, in my homeland, we're known to deep fry chocolate bars. Never had one and never will. Bawbaggery!
  2. This is one of those leather mysteries that will stay such I think. Much like the ever mystical left-handed leather tools.... Stockists have on offer, what they think sells. I suppose. They offer a wee press, but few fittings. No one carries a complete set of fittings for poppers, all types of rivets and eyelets. But in studying this, I discovered most, but not all presses have a base size of 12mm and the upper threaded part, 6,3mm. Seems I'll have to work with that. Found a stunning old Rodus Spindle Press, completely refurbished for 100€. I do love old tools. Now it will be a matter of finding proper fittings and these are scattered around the Interwebs, all over the EU. Will take time, but such is life. At least I have a solution. Cheers!
  3. How interesting to read on the posting matters.... gave me a wee laugh. Germany is no different folks. I ordered something from Kempten, Germany, about 20min north of me. It was mailed, if I recall on the Monday. I was sent an email with the tracking number. A few hours after the email was sent, I looked at the DHL website to see where it was. It traveled 70km north of Kempten. Had a wee nighttime pause, then made the 90km trip south to me - the same bloody day! Aye, I did have it the day after it was posted, but FFS, why did it need to travel north, just to come back south? One might think the postal service here is still run by the government.... disorganised and senseless!
  4. A wee update on Yangtools. In a leather-working FB group, a lad posted a photo of his recent purchase. A lefty plough gauge! That's extremely rare. Indeed. It arrived yesterday, so I asked him to let me know how he gets on with it in the following weeks. He doesn't have a proper website - only Instagram. That concerns me, greatly. Also, the gauge only goes to 8cm, I believe. No easy to see from the few photos. But a lefty gauge is interesting. No one else makes one.
  5. The don't have machines on offer. Only rivets and poppers.
  6. A wee look at their website looks promising. I'll send them an email in the morning. Cheers!
  7. Right then, over the past few years I've been searching for a proper press. I think I've physically seen one, but never used. I've been doing so by hand. Aye, with brass rivets and cheap poppers one must use caution. I keep in stock rivets size 4mm through 11mm and poppers size 8, 10, 12, 14, 15 and 17mm. In my search I'll find a company who has a press on offer but offers fittings for half of what I need. I would image fittings that suit one press, won't suit another. Do any firms in the US carry a spindle or handle-down press that would suit my needs? Thanks in advance and happy Easter.
  8. Servus Marco und herzlich Willkommen, I hope that if you are wanting to make 'authentic' items for the Mittelaltermärkte and fests, that you are not using that sewing machine from the cellar. Just a week bit of humour. Welcome to the website.
  9. @Rahere, have an idea what you're on about and I appreciate your input, but would rather no do that. It puts stitch holes in the leather before tooling and dyeing, which can be problematic. Cheers!
  10. Right then, have the odd (to me at least) order for a man's bag. The request is for the back and cover (only and one piece) to be basketweave stamped. The length or height of the front piece is 27,5cm. Three gussets on this bag for a combined 20cm. The length of the cover need be half down the front (13,5cm). Including the leather thickness, I've calulated 62,5cm. A length of 62,5cm will fall short. The problem I'm on about is the wee curve across the top of the gussets. That is an additional length to the piece and my maths seem to be not aiding me at present. I get the very rare request for a tooled bag (more belts than anything). Normally I simply cut the back-cover piece long and trim off the excess. That's a non-starter this time. It need be spot on or as exact as possible. One centimeter short or long will be fine. Suggestions on a solution to this? Cheers!
  11. This is a very subjective matter. Only you can honestly answer such a question based on numerous factors. The first being the most important. What do you honestly think your skill level is and is worth? Compare what you make to others. Is your stitching, skiving, pattern making, dying, tooling, etc...stunning or does it need wee tuning and improvement? Is it consistent - always. What is your cost of living or overhead? What are others in your area charging per hour? There are simply too many factors and only you can be the end decider of what your time is worth.
  12. @Chris623 Tooling and stamping. Get yourself some tape. I use a double-sided carpet tape. Tape the leather and fix it to a piece of cardboard. This will stop the stretch. You can leave it when dyeing the leather. Dyeing can change the size of the leather as well and the tape stops the dye from showing on the flesh side, if one does no plan to dye the flesh side. The cardboard will also allow one to hammer a wee harder to make a better imprint from the stamp, beveler, etc. This is handy with thicker leathers. Corium? Google leather grains and corium. It's a layer of the leather. Corium is the looser fibres closer to the flesh. When your budget allows, buy full grain only. Good on protecting the blade. Well done!
  13. Your Camo stamps are huge, but it's no bad for your first sheath. Chris, Don Gonzales uploaded a video about serpentine borders. Give it a wee watch and you'll see what I'm on about with starting at the corners and working towards each. On the other matter, what I was on about and what would have given an easier go on the camo stamps in the corner. Looking at the back of the sheath, your maker's mark is in the center with a 'half circle' down and up. My suggestion was to switch them. This would offer easier corners, perhaps. Another few suggestions. The front: Your stitch line.... start at the corner and top and work towards the middle. Seems you cut one hole in half (at the top). Also, don't tool to the edge (top). It's no asthetically pleasing. That edge should have a border of some type. Do you have a welt between the front and back? Next, this is a personal thing to me, but I do no put screw rivets or press snaps on top of the blade unless the sheath is to be lined. It will scratch the blade and if the metal in that wee screw is poor quality, it could rust. The back: It appears you have top grain or the junction with corium. See how the flesh side looks rough and loose? Use some saddle soap to press those fibres down. That or use oil dye to dye the entire thing and use a good top coat. Lastly, a wee trick on your tooling window: If you bevel the edge to be tooled and then....use the camo stamp, it will look stunning. More importantly, your camo stamps will be straighter and deeper. Again, you did well for your first go.
  14. Chris, start in those corners first. You can overlap the camo stamps in corners. Once your corners are done, work from one corner to the other. As always, get some wee scrap pieces and practice before you start on the actual sheath. As a suggestion, what might suit and be a wee easier for you. Rather than have your mark between ( mark ) try.... ) Mark ( You might find your camo stamps have a proper fit and look.
  15. All I've ever done as well mate. Done in no time and no involvement of using a computer. Just a wee coffee and give it a go.
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