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ljk

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Everything posted by ljk

  1. I have limited need to hand stitch, however I'm a amateur shoemaker and I inseam my insoles and and saddle stitch my outsoles. I have noticed many Euro and Oriental leather workers use a grooved awl. If you google rasche awls you will find a awl that handstitchers might like. You insert the awl, leave in position while passing both thread thru the groove.
  2. You have been provided great info. There is more than one type of snap. DOT and Fastsnaps have a more domed head than chinese line 24 snaps. They will work on either style tool but may disrupt the top of the domed head.
  3. Cheap ideas. Shim ladder gears, 1mm brass shim stock cheap at NAPA. Adjust the needle distance to hook,seen just above the foot. The eccentric can be adjusted by moving the revolving carrier on shaft at top of machine. There is a Y Tube video on this.Trim a needle and adjust up and down see if this works. Keep looking. I have owned a bunch of 29s from a $25 29-4 to a $800 29k71 got them all to work. Review" ken's life" on needlebar.org. great video on 29k13.
  4. For awning, boatwork, auto trim and upholstery, you can;t beat a 20" Consew 206or equivalent. You will like the space.
  5. A sewing machine usually has more than one tensioner, the first is called a pretensioner. The purpose to create enough tension to keep main tensioner thread uniformally seated. On front mounted machine with a dial or a lever without reverse you can simply go to zero stitch length and make 4 or 5 stitches to lock stitich. This is the way embroidery machine does jump stitches and they also drag the top thread to the bottom. I use this method for leatherwork because appearance is important. My 44 and 31 old black Singer have a stitch length lever but no reverse, so you simply go to zero and make a few stitches. You can usually pull top thread through to the bottom and trim. On my 280l has a dial and reverse, for stitch quality I go to zero and lock the stitch This won't work on 111 and clone machines. Also Singer and Adler shoe patchers. It will work on CLSP.
  6. The 29k51 has a hole in front of the base just at the top of the stencil. Inside is a eccentric at the junction of the horizontal and vertical arm. You may be able to adjust the hook with this eccentric. If this doesn't work check y tube videos.
  7. Very good explanation from Mablung. The chemistry should allow for heat treating to a high hardness. The tempering process will dictate the final hardness. Producers play that game of hardness over 60rc vs.toughness 55-60rc. Go through the sharpening process as described by Mablung than use the green stuff for touch-up. The only way to check hardness is using RockwellC tester. I think some of the boutique steels are nothing but a hustle. What they sometimes do is use a bunch of letters and numbers to confuse the customer. Plain old cheap 1095 high carbon steel heat treated properly will make a great knife, albeit poor corrosion resistance.
  8. My choice 241. huge selection of chinese and japanese parts. How about a 1/2" welt foot for windlass on a vintage car. Or a 1/8" piping foot for seat welting. Most machines are non sewing factory having less hours. Horizontal axis hook less tendency to thread jam. ADLER Has drive belt $50 plus labor $50 to $100 per hour to install. Takes about a hour unless upper bushing is stuck $$$$. Some machines so worn sprockets need to be replaced $$$
  9. I'm near 80 and having trouble de-hairing with knife any suggestions? Also do you have a good source for tanning bark, especially that tans in light tan color.
  10. On 206 rb5 I have tried valve grinding compound. I have tried moving hook closer to needle and moving needle up and down helps some. I bought a new 206 rb5 20 years ago no problem. Next try Dremel buffing wheels worked great on clearing and buffing CLSP (chinese shoe patcher) hook, shuttle carrier. and shuttle. These parts are heat treated but not buffed. Adjusting the needle positioner might be also needed
  11. My 206rb is well worn and will sew 207. I've had two dealers in the past have asked me to repair new 206rb5 because of thread jams. Tight clearances. I have never replaced a hook on 206rb's for almost 50 years. Used may be good. My as new 280l will sew 138 never tried 207 on that machine.
  12. I wold buy a used consew 206 or Sieko or variant used in good working condition. I would also buy a chinese shoe patcher from Bantam Saddle and Tack. This machine has a higher lift and longer stitch than Singer or Adler. Used because the clearances are bigger allowing larger thread. The CLSP has a larger bobbin than most Singers. Do not buy a European machine parts are high and feet are propriety. You should be in business for less than $1000. I would not buy a machine with a belt drive, it can be expensive to replace. Belt drive can be a little stiff to turn. You may score a machine with a clutch motor cheaper and in rare occasions have very good control. Singer variants 144 w We called ours T Rex our go to machine for heavy thickness. Your final step would be a freearm 45K clones Many choices not many used.
  13. I use bellies for shoe sole construction. I case a belly for insoles. While tacking the insole on the last I hammer the areas that conform to the foot. The midsole uses a tougher stronger leather that will not stretch because the edge will be used as a welt. The insole and midsole using a inseam stitch. A ancient method. I sometimes use belly for outsoles, wear is not important as I put on sole savers. Near 80 my eyes and hand work good, but my feet not so good.
  14. Try $300 Machine has speed reduction pulley. The machine has large bobbin. Both servo;s and clutch have start issues. My wife has a clutch motor on her 206 with great control. I have a 280l with Enduro with needle position I love it. My shop machine a 206rb-It has a servo just ok. The speed reducer is valuable may help pay for that servo. Unless you are a nit picker a pc. of heavy fabric will worker just fine under that machine. I regret I didn't learn to backtack to lock stitches If you learn that"s what operators did for 100 years. My wife as a teenager worked in a garment factory and you would not get hired if you could not backtack. Be aware that non-reverse machines for sale are factory machines and have been sold off either because they are fully depreciated are because of auction of a closed plant so sad.
  15. Here is my slow go setup. A 280l with Enduro servo with needle positioner. It is set to stop with needle down. This way I can go around sharp curves a stitch at a time. With pedal down I can sew a whatever speed I want. I would never travel as a stitcher with a servo not reliable. Or you should carry a spare. Reason for spare unreliable power from promoter or sketchy electronics. Broken servo's make great belt sanders.
  16. I'm a embroidery digitizer as well as a leather worker. I pull a image into my embroidery software sized it which can be done multiple ways. I then print to size and then use as a pattern. If the product sells well I will then use the pattern to make a clicker die and cut product. The image shows a center oval which can be difficult to cut cleanly, the clicker makes it easy to do precision work. coin purse.gen
  17. The circled in red is the adjustment screw. Back out tension assembly by loosening screw. Some times I have had to loosen the screw at top of assembly and insert a washer. Other choices would be to shorten the pin that inter acts with release mechanism.
  18. Many machines release tension while lifting. Most can be adjusted so thread releases at the top of lift. Usually the tension can be adjusted by the screw holding the the mechanism. Many such as Singer 45k and 144w don't even have this feature.
  19. One more thing you may have what I call vertical axis thread break phenomenon. That is when thread particles get built up under the hook. Last resort. Do use posted advice first.
  20. With a 2" motor pulley you could expect 4-900rpm tops with great control. I have seen some with a multiple pulleys on the motor so you could change speeds. On your machine the table and clutch is probably worth more than the machine. I could see a 111w or 211 for a real cool vintage look.
  21. This is usually called a line shaft clutch. Still used in places like Amish communities. I saw one in a machine shop in Wisconsin. I used one on my machine as a vendor on the bike circuit. Glad I did had a motor blow at Sturgis and went to the farm store picked up a 110v 1/4 horse and was back in business. The clutch uses a 3/8" leather round belt. If it gets sticky simple slip a pc. of sand paper while running. Great control. For production work making chaps and vest I used clutch or servo.
  22. I bought all my stuff in the 90's when the big move west and south. Things are different now there is a proliferation of off shore equip. now available. Here''s what you need. Helmond or clone bender with dies. Die stock 2 point and 3 point preferable .937 in height. A saw preferentially a band saw anything to cut shapes. A MIG welder. A hole punch that will cut die stock to screw to wood stock. I use 3/4" wood flooring. This works well because 1/4" rejection foam works well with this combination. You can buy online a box of small shapes that is .937. Now""class" read all you can, "steel rule die" on you tube. Harry Rogers has a good video on a cheap bender. Many videos on technique. AmeriKen is good source for materials. With many mechanical clicker hand operated machines available get one that rotates. You can position the die on the leather better. Now clickers. Schwabe is a beast not much on adjustment. Fipii 20 or various versions. Good choice because it reads height and pressure can be adjusted. If you buy factory machine you will have to deal with a phase converter. If you buy a euro. machine you will have to deal with euro wiring. Finally the bad. You need real computer and marketing skills.
  23. I only use steel rule 2 and 3 point. My model C will not bend these dies, not enough tonnage. I dress the outside edge with a belt sander and finish with a carbide.
  24. "ken's life singer 29k13" google or needlebar. Good article with images. If it sews but has short spi or foot not lifting high this will help. Shimming ladder gears can improve hook rotation. Make sure the bushing on the cam rotates smooth. I would think the experts will post. You can buy 1mm shimstock at NAPA
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