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alpha2

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Everything posted by alpha2

  1. The manufacturer is full of it. I've never heard of such a thing. What manufacturer are we talking about? Some wouldn't surprise me, some would.
  2. This was closer to the back than belly. I always advise customers that these belts are stretchier than other leathers, but they continue to be my best sellers by far, with many ordering multiple belts. The natural is more elastic than the brown. Stitching doesn't seem to alter the stretch, either. (They're actually the only belts I wear anymore, with the exception of gunbelts). As I said, the longer the belt, the more pronounced the stretch. I get the 12oz. when available from Horween. They have to be doing a special run of the thicker leather, so they ship it when available. I think it's more of a pull-up leather thing, more than Chrome tan. You pump a leather full of oils and greases, it's going to soften the leather!
  3. One, and only one, of the videos I've watched, recommended angling the airbrush INTO the piece, instead of away, or off the edge of the piece. I can't say I'm comfortable with that. I'm trying to control the over spray, not accentuate it. Other than that, the amount of dye applied is up to you. One heavy coat, (NOT recommended), two or more light coats, the dye equals the amount applied. It will be more even, that I know. If you're seeing the application circles or strokes with mechanically applied dye, this may be for you. I heartily recommend spraying resoline, cut 50/50. Whatever you do...PRACTICE FIRST! If there's a secret to success, that's it.
  4. I say "again", because I'd discovered this before, some time ago. I was making a wallet for myself, and split a thick piece to get a nice thin one for the wallet. It stretched a lot during the splitting process. Fortunately, I'd split it before cutting any major pieces out. BTW, I do realize that it stretches in the course of time, or under pressure. Or strain in the case of belts or dog collars. I always tell my clients with "higher" length numbers that the belt will stretch a bit. I recommend against Chromexcel for clients with hard-pulling dogs. This time, years later, I was splitting a piece the proper length, but not cut to template yet, for a rolled handle. It being a rather thick piece for Chromexcel, I was splitting a good amount of the thickness off. Pulling for all I was worth, I got the piece split. Then I laid the template on it. Whoa! It had grown over a half inch in length! I let it sit overnight, thinking maybe it'd shrink back over time. Next day when I saw that it hadn't, I recalled it didn't last time, either. Good news is that it was longer, not shorter. Apparently I need to do something more than once in 6 or 7 years to really retain the info. This is new, and I'm not happy about it!
  5. If a Tandy employee knew something that was true, that would be new in my neck of the woods. There have been exceptions, I have to admit.
  6. The tote is interesting. Considering the sheer number of different "styles" of totes being made and sold today, I would think that something quite similar to Saddleback's has already been patented. Maybe not, but for cryin' out loud, it's a tote! I don't know what it costs to patent something like that, but I hope it was worth it.
  7. Keep digging! There's likely the rest of that tractor in there somewhere. Can't wait to see the finished painting.
  8. House and contents are different unions.
  9. I stand corrected! Thanks for the reply. So few things these days meet expectations, or descriptions, I've gotten a little jaded. Jeff
  10. That Japanese one does have a long learning curve for ease of use and precision. That one says high end, and affordable. I'm not sure that's possible. Check out pics of high end ones, and compare to that one. The Tandy one that cuts on the draw stroke is the easiest to use while maintaining control. It too uses replaceable blades, for those who are sharpening challenged. Search for Tandy Super Skiver #3025-00. There's a video online too.
  11. I knew that was off topic when I sent that last one, sorry. I didn't realize Ireland had that kind of negative number area! We've got Death Valley out west, at 282 feet below.

     I'm not surprised to hear of the whirlpools.

    The lowest I've had to set my altimeter was at Sacramento, California. And that was above MSL at 25'. My flight training was in the East, primarily Michigan, 865'. You could fly anywhere in Michigan at 300' ASL and not hit anything. Most lately at Ft. Collins, Co. field elevation about 5000'. Not to far from here is Leadville, Colorado, at 9934', highest paved airport in the U.S. Most private aircraft can't even take off there on a warm day.

    My plane at Leadville:

     

    rv4.JPG

  12. That would work. Mine is in a second floor shop, sending it out through the window would be interesting. I wish I knew what the thread was in the body housing. Any idea?
  13. Irish Sea Level? If Irish Sea Level is 19 feet lower than the rest of the sea, It seems that there would a pretty good infow from north/south or both ends to level it out. It would seem that it should be fairly close to the mean sea level. Jeff
  14. It appears that the mfgr. didn't break the edges properly on the machine. Those marks were made by a pretty sharp edge. Maybe file and polish those to a slight round?
  15. I've made them out of thin, and thick leather. The thick worked better. Either thicker leather, or JLS' idea with cork.
  16. I have that pump also, how do you handle the oil mist from the exhaust side of the pump? I'll ask you what I asked Chuck123Wapiti, how do you handle the oil mist from the exhaust side of the pump? Jeff
  17. Plan B, or A, your choice. With these, you only need to make one straight hole for each size of strap. After that, just set your punch in the template and mark the leather.
  18. I scribed lines 1/8" apart to the edge of a Craftool template. (The printed lines didn't go all the way to the edge). Find the area you want the oblong to lie, place the punch there as close to proper alignment as you can by eye, align a line (or close, but parallel) on the template to the edge of the leather, rest the punch against the edge of the template, and go for it. You will need to check the ground surfaces on your punch to make sure the area that is resting against the template, is actually parallel to the cut opening! My cheap-ass Tandy punches are close, but one side is closer than the other. Let's just say I didn't find them to be "precision ground". Scribing the lines at 1/8" spacing allows me to use a line that's close enough I can eyeball parallel between the lines.
  19. I guess what I'm asking, is whether the oblong is aligned with the long axis if the piece. I'm going to take a couple of pics and post them with an idea for you. I've had the same issue that you are experiencing. Give a me a few minutes.
  20. Warhauk, are you talking about on strap goods, like belts etc.?
  21. Update, I got an advert from Ohio Travel Bag just now. It turns out it was Ohio Travel Bag that I got the bad blanks from. I can't apologize enough for this. I couldn't remember this at the time, apparently. They're running a sale on those straps again. Hard to believe they're still trying to get rid of them. The ones I tried were the water buffalo in the middle of the pic below. They were absolutely atrocious. Makes the others suspect in my book. I've never had any problems with anything I got from Buckleguy.
  22. Shame, 'cause that is one nice holster!
  23. That kind of leather work, though, will give him a leg up on the competition. I'm sorry! But Sheilajeanne started it with "quivering in my boots"!!! THIS is not a crowd that can just let that go!
  24. alpha2

    Hello from CO

    Welcome from Fort Collins! -Jeff
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