LatigoAmigo
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Posts posted by LatigoAmigo
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8 hours ago, K5HEP said:Whlie we each have our own concerns and feelings and I respect that. I do not understand your need to post a farewell to the group. You could have just left without mention and no one would have been the wiser.
I understand why @Squilchuck posted what he did.
Several internet trolls, like Frodo and Chuck, polluted what used to be a wonderful leatherworking site that had been filled with positive energy and good leatherworking information, and turned it into a site peppered with disruptive and negative energy.. For the most part I have quit this site, because it has really gone downhill.
For example, look at what Frodo posted, showcasing his very sophisticated leather working skills... NOT. Absolute garbage. He has no idea what he is doing, or why. I think that it's important to let the moderators and the advertisers know how we feel about the state of affairs here, so I'm glad to see someone speaking up about it.
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@Davm Braiding and stitching are completely different as you probably already know.
- Braiding uses lace, which calls for punching a hole, leaving an opening that the lace can "go through the hole a couple of times."
- Stitching uses thread and that is what your Tandy chisels are for.
- The diamond stitching chisels don't make a hole, but cut a slot, and are also for thread.
- Correct me if I'm wrong, but nothing that I know of will give you a diamond shaped "hole" big enough that you can lace through more than once.
- There is also buck stitching, which uses lace and chisels.
Here is a book on braiding that you might enjoy, it's one of my favorites.
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1 hour ago, Frodo said:unless the mods have changed rules. . Yes You DO need to ask permission to enter Adults only
I hear what you're sayin', but dumb ol' me, I never asked permission, I just clicked on through without a hitch.
Maybe I have special privileges because I'm a Contributing Member. Donno.
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Just to be clear, this thread did not originate in the Adults Only section of this forum, so the early commentators could not have seen that warning.
And it may not be a surprise to everyone, but neither permission nor adulthood are required to enter the adult section... it is open to anyone who has signed in.
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5 hours ago, Tugadude said:It is a shame. I suppose if enough complaints are made, the moderators will take action. Other than leaving I guess that's the best recourse.
In today's environment it seems inevitable, as you can see who chimed in on this thread and how they twisted the conversation. I've discovered that there's a name for these folks...
Internet Troll
An Internet troll, or simply troll in Internet slang, is someone who posts controversial, inflammatory, irrelevant or off-topic messages in an online community, such as an online discussion forum or chat room, with the primary intent of provoking other users into an emotional response or to generally disrupt normal on-topic discussion. -
1 hour ago, Tugadude said:I working harder to determine when to say when.
@Squilchuck has a good point. The people he is referring to, and we all know who they are, have decimated what was once a wonderful site for leatherworkers to share their work and their knowledge, and in my view have ruined this site. It now seems to attract the angry and ignorant. Many very talented members have not posted here in years because of the responses from said members. It is worthy of note that the most members online date is January 7, 2021.
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1 hour ago, Davm said:The fid holes I've seen are diamond shaped and this tool has a flat top and bottom and 90 degree sides.
A fid is for working lace, not cutting diamond shaped holes. Could you be thinking of something like this?
Weaver Leather Supply Diamond Stitching Chisel Set, 4mm, stainless steel for Leather Craft DIY
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13 hours ago, fredk said:for pulling lace up tight or to loosen I use a hooked dental probe
I'm sure that works great. I had to reform one of my fids to accomplish the same task.
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1 hour ago, Davm said:you use the same tool to loosen or tighten lace as you braid
That is all I use this for. I've never used a fid to make a hole... that is what a punch is for.
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5 hours ago, nbutterfield186 said:Would include pictures, but can't figure it out.
Won't get much of a response without some pics. Your photos have to be fairly small and in .jpg format.
Easiest way is to take the photos with your phone and email them to yourself. You will be prompted to select a size, select "small." This will provide you with images you should be able to post here without a problem. Sorry if that is not your problem. but is a common issue for new people on this site.
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1 hour ago, Davm said:what would be a good fid?
I would say that the best fid is one designed specifically as a fid such as this one available on Amazon. for less than $9. You will find a fid like this is invaluable if you ever get into the various knots that are in the Bruce Grant Encyclopedia.
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1 hour ago, Davm said:what book was it from
From this book, the "Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding." A classic, this is considered to be "the" book by "the" master of leather braiding.
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11 hours ago, Mocivnik said:what type of leather this would be?
It strikes me as bison (American buffalo). I buy it at the Hide House in Napa, California. They ship world-wide.
Here are some examples from their website.
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13 hours ago, Dwight said:Kinda thinking about "maybe" getting into laser engraving of leather.
Then maybe stepping up to laser cutting out of parts.
Would definitely appreciate any first hand good news on both.
I have software experience, so I saw the laser as an opportunity to produce perfect edges and hole alignment.
At first I rented a laser at a maker-space. The 100 watt Epilog did a very fine job of engraving, but with a purchase price of $35,000, it was somewhat out of my range. I picked up a 100 watt CO2 laser for $4,500, but the trade-off is that the engraving on my machine is not very refined, so I do very little of it. As far as cutting, it does a great job, but on some heavier leathers I might have to "go over it" a few times to get it to cut all the way through. The trick that I learned is that because the focal point of the laser is what does the cutting and because the leather does not always want to lay flat, using a light adhesive, I glue what I'm cutting to a sheet of stiff "oil board" or "stencil board" that's available from a local art supply store. Then I use weights and /or tape to hold the oil board flat. I must add that I am cutting mostly somewhat stiff heavier leather in the 4-5-6 oz. range. Also, I not only cut out the pieces, I also cut in the lacing holes, as I only hand-sew my bags.
The biggest headache I've had is aligning the laser beam. I replaced the laser tube, all the mirrors and the lens, and it took quite a few tries to get the beam back into play. If the laser is not aligned correctly it will not cut as expected. If you do get a laser and end up needing align the beam, here is a site that you might found helpful.
https://smokeandmirrors.store/pages/laser-beam-alignment-guide
With the laser, I can cut patterns that are almost impossible with a knife, and the edges are cut perfectly (albeit soot covered). The trade-off with laser-cutting the lacing holes is that they are soot-filled, so I can only use dark thread.
Although there are a few trade-offs, I sure hope that is the good news you were looking for, I wouldn't be doing leather if not for my laser. Here is one of my recent bags.
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1 hour ago, MtlBiker said:Any idea what the clear product and final milky products might be? And would you agree that's the right way of finishing edges...
Good questions. I don't know what the first gel-like product is (maybe a primer), but the second two products are Tokonole, a burnishing gum that comes in black, brown and clear. As implied, it is not an edge paint that's painted onto the leather's surface, but something that is rubbed into and absorbed by the leather, in this case by use of a slicker. Tokonole is my "go to" product for finishing edges, and sometimes to finish the flesh side of leather.
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15 hours ago, midwestwelder said:That leads me to the question in the title. Does anyone know what type of leather this is? What types of projects would it be good for?
It doesn't look like leather at all, as leather comes in hides, sides, shoulders, etc., not in 3'x4' rectangles. This looks more like bonded leather and probably used for insoles. It is real leather, but is much like particle board and has no grain. I use bonded leather all the time, but in a much thinner weight, for stiffening bags. Sorry, but I have no idea what this would be good for.
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2 hours ago, TomG said:it needs to be an odd number of strands.
@Frodo This may not be what you're looking for, but here is how Bruce Grant does a 5-strand (and 7 & 9-strand).
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@Bert03241 You are asking a legitimate question to which there is no simple answer.
When I started working leather about a half-century ago the choice seemed to be either "oil-tanned" or "oak-tanned". Tanning techniques and terminology have certainly changed over the years resulting in more leather choices. Here is an excerpt from the website of The Horween Leather Company, my favorite source of leather that you might find interesting:
"Specific and proprietary mixes of bark extracts and natural agents are used to give Chromexcel, and many of our leathers, its heavy vegetable re-tannage. The benefit of combination tanning comes from the specific attributes that both chrome and vegetable tanning impart. Generally, chrome tanned leathers yield soft, supple, and durable leathers, while vegetable tanned leathers are round and full feeling, patina well, and are easy to coax into shapes using heat and moisture.
"The next step is "hot stuffing" – that is, the impregnation of the hides with oils, waxes, and greases that are solid at room temperature. Stuffing is achieved through the use of steamed mills and is the process that is responsible for the "pull-up" of this leather. Pull-up is the temporary displacement of these oil and wax blends that cause a lightening of the leather."
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@MtlBiker Found this on Rocky Mountain Leather's website regarding Seiwa, a water based glue. Looks like it might be worth considering:
"This Seiwa water-based glue is some of the best glue for almost all leathercraft demands.
"It is water-based, non-toxic, and has no foul smells like many of the glues out there. The largest benefit is in its bonding strength to leather and the fact that it goes on white but dries completely clear. Because this is not a contact cement, you will want to put glue on both pieces of leather and then secure together right away. The leather allows for some time to work with it (2-3 minutes) yet dries fully in only 5-10 minutes allowing you to move on to the next steps in your project
"The glue has a nice balance of drying strong, yet is pliable and able to move/flex with your leather. Because it is water-based any excess on the edges cleans up with a damp rag in the natural process of burnishing your leather edges."
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36 minutes ago, Hairic said:what you would do.
Here are some pics of what I did as I had limited space. I needed a bigger bench for laying out my materials, so I made the bench U-shaped with a sort of convertible table insert, and hung my tools on the walls.
Please excuse the clutter.
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6 hours ago, hickok55 said:i'd like to know if they would be any significant different between these two bison leather made by the hide house that would make one better for making working step in shotgun chaps.
You should order their Sample Book so you can see the differences for yourself. I know the people at The Hide House, and I'm sure they'd be glad to talk with you about their products.
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3 hours ago, benfanman said:Do you find that it's easier or harder to cut into latigo than veg tan? What makes you choose latigo over other kinds of leather for your pieces?
I don't use veg tan, only chrome tan and latigo leathers (along with a laser cutter). The reason I selected Hide House's California Latigo for these bags is because the temper is very firm, unlike most latigos, and because the flesh side requires no finishing so I didn't have to line the bags.
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I have worked with latigo for quite a few years. It comes in many forms, with some hides very supple and others very firm. These days I buy mine from The Hide House in Napa, CA, but have made purchases of latigo from Maverick Leather in Bend, OR.
The Tannery Row has offers this description of latigo on their website:
Latigo is a combination tanned leather with a full vegetable re-tan; well nourished with a rich proprietary blended oil emulsion. Characterized by beautiful tight grain, Latigo has come a long way from its cowboy origins— the old days of saddle straps and hand staining. Modern Latigo retains its toughness while showing a rich look that improves with age and use. This leather blends the durability of a chrome tan base with a heavy veg re-tan to create an unfinished, natural look that’s excellent for molding. It holds embosses well, retains molded shapes and has both full and corrected grain versions.
California Latigo 4/5 ounce from The Hide House.
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@Frodo You can't handle the TRUTH!