HVLW

Hello, I really need some sewing machine help and would greatly appreciate it. I've already bought 2 machines that don't work for this purpose: I am having a problem figuring out a good machine and/or foot for a certain problem I am having. For example, when doing a 30mm padded reversible calfskin dress belt where the calfskin is roughly 2 oz each side of the belt and a thicker, but slightly narrower piece of leather for the lining. If the belt is 30mm wide, I'd say the lining is about 18mm and 5-6 oz leather, so there's roughly 6mm wide to walk and stitch on each side. On the only true walking foot machine I have currently (Cowboy CB3200 Juki 441 heavy duty unison feed clone), the stitch is too close to the edge of the belt to use both feet, so I use the left presser foot and the roller attachment on the right side with a max of 138 thread. The problem is, when the left toe presses down, the leather layers, even though they have been glued, shift enough to twist, then when the center foot pushes down on what I'm calling the stitching channel, the leather moves something terrible. So, I figured the machine was just too heavy duty, so I bought a mint condition Singer 15-91 per someone's recommendation. It came with a plastic flat foot with a roller built in horizontally. That worked fine for completely flat projects, but for example for these padded belts, I don't have enough clearance to get it on the stitch line. So, I put a narrow zipper foot on it, which works surprisingly ok...but it doesn't always feed the top layer well and I've ruined a lot of time-consuming projects because of that. Also, the Singer lacks the slow speed crawling capability that I am used to and love with the Cowboy with gear reducer. The 15-91 only seems to like to run fast with leather, so I made a guide with magnets, and that's what I've been making due with until I find the right machine. Now that this has become full-time for me, I want to invest in a nice machine. I was looking at the Pfaff 335 and the Juki LU-1508NS. I know they are different style machines, but those are the ones that caught my eye. The local industrial sewing machine store, Stadham, carries Juki, and I like to buy local, so unless you all recommend a different machine for my purpose, Juki and Pfaff are my preferences, but by no means only options. I want to be able to run up to a 138 thread. I don't always use that thick of thread, but I want the capability. Besides belts, I run into a similar problem with leather billfolds. I use full leather card slots I split to roughly 1.5oz each, and cut the hidden slot pieces narrower than the outer edges and skive to reduce bulk, except for the tab at the top of each layer, to minimize the look of the bulk so that the edges of the wallet sewn are the back of the billfold the lining, the tabs of each credit card slot (usually 3), and the bottom credit card slot. So again, the stitch channel is very narrow, and I'm right next to much thicker leather. The repair guy at the shop who has been doing it for 50 years ground a single right toe foot down on a Juki 1541, with the idea if he raised how high it walks, it would serve as an edge guide (off the leather), and the center foot with the needle would feed. This didn't work. Someone else suggested getting a big old Singer straight stitch machine (forgot the model) and using either a roller wheel on the left and adjust it to the height of the leather it is sitting on to feed, with just the needle in the much shorter/narrower stitch channel/line. I know if I leave room to cut after I stitch it would be easier, but honestly I have so much invested in clicker dies and templates that I really would rather get a machine that would do it. Bob at Toledo is making me some sort of foot to try on the Juki 1508 that walks one foot in front of the other as he described it. I've never seen one, so I don't know anything else. If that works, I'll get the Juki, but if there's some answer to my problem you can think of, especially if it could be solved with my current machines, I'd appreciate any assistance.

B-101 is what I am looking for right now. I've never braided anything before. How do I know what size round leather lace to get so that once braided, it will fit?

Thank you so much Jackie. Yes, I have heard of your company, but honestly the catalog was a bit overwhelming. So, I look forward to seeing the new site! I will definitely be a customer. How do we go ahead in setting up a wholesale account? You can email me at BGA@huntvalleyleatherworks.com Thanks, Brandon

Hello, I recently saw a braided round leather bracelet I really liked and want to duplicate it. Do you know where I can get the ends/clasp?

Thank you for all of your replies to my questions Wizcrafts! I have some brown, black, and white from Toledo, however they do not have the other colors I need (royal blue, bright red, yellow, etc). What would you say is the most popular size for wallets, small purses, accent on 1" dress belts, etc...?

Hello, I was purely a hand stitcher until I got my CB3200 recently. I am very confused about thread for machines. What should I look for? I want highest quality possible in a variety of colors. Also, is there a size sample card anywhere? I have no idea as to size codings I am seeing. Thanks

Hello, I have 2 machines currently. The first is a new Singer "Heavy Duty" crappy machine, and the second is a Cowboy CB3200. I am trying to sew a fold on the edge of a wallet made from a soft thin leather. On the Singer, the piece barely fits under the lifted foot, it skips stitches, and stops completely at about 4 pieces thick. Yes, I am using new leather needles. The Cowboy is setup for thick belts I make, and the dealer said it won't work for the delicate stuff i am talking about, even with a smaller needle and thread. Any recommendations? I'm willing to get a restored old Singer...someone recommended a 15-91 or something like that.

Hello, I am looking to find leather for some jobs I have coming up. First, I need to figure out where to get as close to the leather that Hermes uses on items such as the standard H belt and the Birkin bags. It's not a very soft leather. It actually feels quite durable and has a nice grain. Second, I need to find gray and chocolate nubuck for belts.