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  1. As a follow up to this, I looked up the website of the pub that it has become and under the ‘History’ tab it has pages from the May 1842 edition of the Penny Magazine. It has a fascinating article on leather processing and the trade in Bermondsey. You can find it at the following: https://www.theleatherexchange.co.uk/
  2. I recently thought I would have a go at designing a template or two using software. I downloaded the free version of Sketchup and found it relatively easy to use (quite a bit quicker than using a pencil and ruler). The problem I have is that when I export my design as a .pdf and print it, it is coming out quite a bit bigger than my design. I have checked my printer settings and I am printing off at 'actual size'. Anyone got any ideas?
  3. Could I please ask what programme do you use for drawing your templates and how do you do the stitching lines?
  4. I was out walking and passed the old London Leather Hide and Wool Exchange in Bermondsey (it’s now a pub). These reliefs, showing how leather was processed, were on the walls. It must have been the centre of the leather trade at one time as there are lots of streets, pubs, gardens etc with leather or tanner in the name. Thought people might like to see them. kn the
  5. Never really see it mentioned but I have always bought Leading Edge from the Identity Store in the UK and have found it good. You can't use heat with it, but then I have never really found the need. I have a couple of key pouches that I did several years ago. They are in my pocket every day and have had some abuse over that time but the edge paint is still fine.
  6. Gents, wallet made and a couple of photos below. I’m happy with the way it turned out but I feel it is too thick. The cover is Buttero @ 1.2-1.4mm, pigskin for the linings @ 0.6mm and goatskin @ 1.1 mm for the pockets. What thicknesses do you use?
  7. Thanks battlemunky. I had something similar in mind so it’s good to see that it works for you. I think I will try the same. Danne, I have seen the photos you posted of assembling a wallet and could see you pricked only the exterior cover first. I was wondering how you lined it up. I think that takes more precision than I have planned at present.
  8. Due to various reasons I really didn’t get a whole lot done on the leathercraft front last year. I’m getting back in and have started with a couple of wallets and it has brought up a question I have thought about before. When punching the leather with a pricking iron do you punch from the front to the inside or the inside to the front? I am thinking in particular if you punch from the front how do you line up your stitches with the card pockets inside i.e. how do you ensure the pricking iron doesn’t cut the lip of the pocket.
  9. Looks to me like Webber’s is the cheapest from the comparisons I have looked at. You can order form the US but by the time you take in to account postage and import tax it works out about the same.
  10. Thanks. I think the 86 or 86 a might be what I want.
  11. Anyone know if the Osborne splitter can be used to split leather down to about 0.5 - 0.6 mm to make piping for seams?
  12. I have used a variation similar to this for quite a while. I usually add a couple of drops of Citronella essential oil as it is said to have anti-sceptic properties. And it makes the conditioner smell nice!
  13. I am thinking about getting a leather creasing machine which can be quite an investment once you take into account the cost of tips. I have see a couple of companies selling their machines with a box of around 20 mini tips for the same cost as 6 or 7 normal tips. Has anybody used these? Is there any difference in performance and use?
  14. More names I have never heard of. I will have to look these up as well!
  15. Danne, again thanks for the info. I will have to try some of the tips you have given. Here is my latest attempt. Alran caviar goat 1.2mm, some soft read leather 1.2mm (not sure what it is) with some 0.45mm Texan reinforcement.
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