TomBanwell

I too would like to know the ideal rpm for sanding veg tan edges on shoes. Anyone?

Thanks!

Thanks, yeah, I've been thinking about that too. I can slow my drill press way down with the pulleys. Maybe I'll set up a sanding drum there. Can anyone tell me what the rpm of a Landis line finisher is?

Thanks for your reply. Since I am retired and it is just a hobby I'm trying to do this without having to buy a finishing machine. I do have a good dust system set up.

I've been doing leatherwork for 50 years, but am new to shoemaking. After cementing the outer sole to the midsole, I am sanding the edge flush on my Grizzly buffer/grinder drum sander. It runs at 3450 rpm, and I'm using a 100 grit belt on a 4" drum. The problem I'm having is burning and buildup. How do the pro shoemakers do this? Is the 3450 too fast?

I have been making veg tan notebook covers and antiquing them with Tandy's Eco-Flo Gel Antique. I can get a very nice look with lots of color variation. However I have found that the water-based antique is extremely susceptible to damage from water, even days after it is made. I looked on the board to find recommendations for a non-shiny top coat sealer, and couldn't find a good comparison of different products, so I went ahead and did my own testing on raw grain-side veg tan. I compared Fiebings Acrylic Resolene, Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax, Fiebings Leather Sheen Acrylic Finish, and Angelus Matte Acrylic Finish. I used all at 100%, lightly shakened, with a small wool dauber dipped into the finish and wiped back and forth across a 3" x 3" square, starting wet and ending up dry, in a single coat. After drying for 20 minutes I spritzed water over them to check water resistance. Here are my findings: Resolene was the shiniest and the least absorbent of water. For my purpose it is too shiny. Angelus Matte was the second shiniest and tied with least absorbent of water. Leather Balm was the third shiniest, and the second most absorbent. Leather Sheen was least shiny, and most absorbent. There is an obvious direct correlation between shiny and water absorbency. I suspect that if I used the Leather Sheen in two or three coats it would perform better in water resistance and also become shinier, but I just did the single coat for comparison. Since I'd prefer to apply only one coat of finish I am going to use the Angelus Matte. It has the additional quality of being thin enough to easily airbrush.

I am fortunate in that I did a trade with Tony several years ago and am now the proud owner of one of his pilot helmets. Really top-notch work.

I am located about one hour outside of Sacramento in the foothills of the Sierra. Sorry that I left that out.

Just to be clear, I am selling the servo motor that came with the Juki, not the sewing machine.

I have just purchased a Juki DU-1181-N industrial sewing machine from Meissner Sewing in Sacramento. I have replaced the servo motor that it came with and replaced it with another that I already had. I am offering it for sale for $100 plus freight. Brand new. FSM-550 Servo Motor, POW 550W, 110V. RPM 0-3300 See all three photos here: http://tombanwell.com/servo-motor

They are wet-formed. If I oiled them first I don't think the paint would stick.

I make veg tan masks and paint them with Angelus leather paint. Occasionally I get a customer who asks how to treat the mask to keep it from drying out and cracking, etc. I don't know what to tell them. Is there a product that can penetrate the paint and keep the mask supple and extend the life of it? Thanks for any help.

Thank you both. I owned a Juki many years ago, but it was too large for what I'm looking for now. I will look at the 1181N.

I use a Cobra class 4 for sewing leather, but occasionally I need to sew a couple of layers of lambskin or deerskin. The Cobra doesn't like that thin a material. Can anyone suggest a sewing machine that is best for that thin a material? Should I be looking for a walking foot or not?