CowboyBob
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Posts posted by CowboyBob
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@groundyThe correct # for the cloth type is #235003(which is hard to find) or #224195 like Constabulary said for the rubber one.
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14 hours ago, AlZilla said:Interesting. I would have thought the Singer 111W series would be pretty comparable to the Consew 205's and 206's. Yet the 111W is nowhere on the chart. Maybe they're considered obsolete?
They sew similar materials but the parts don't interchange between them.
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On 4/14/2024 at 8:49 PM, ValJ said:I am going to attempt to attach a picture here. Could someone please tell me if it looks like I need to adjust the needle bar height so that the hook is coming more in the middle of the scarf or not? Am I correct in thinking I need to do this? Would this be my first step to getting it to have the hook pick up the thread again? Does it look like the hook is close enough to the needle? If not, should I adjust that before the needle bar height please tell me the order in which I should proceed. Is there anything else in this picture that looks wrong or out of place? Does the needle guard need to be moved?
please let me know if you need additional photos or video. thank you so very much for your time and knowledge! Valery
If you loosen the needle set screw how far does the needle move left to right?
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Thought some of you might like to see which machines compare to each other.
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On 3/29/2024 at 7:13 PM, ValleyLeather said:Hello. Does anyone know what leather weight/thickness a Mitsubishi LU2-4710 machine can work with?
Thank you for any information you can help with on this!
On this machine with #92 thread approx 5/16" or 20 oz of leather.
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19 hours ago, AA3JW said:Due to health reasons, I am getting rid of a lot of my stuff. I have a Techsew 3650 HD I want to sell and am wondering the best way to sell it. Any advice appreciated.
There's a free classified section for used machines on this site that works good.
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We have this screw in stock Singer#200006 17/64 x 24tpi.It's 3/4" long
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1 hour ago, DieselTech said:Guys & gals is a #25 needle going to be best for the 277 thread I plan on using.
Lmao I finally was able to afford the machine & cant afford the needles. I did not realize the needles would cost $25/10needles.
Thanks.
We sell the same needle for $16.00 a pack of 10
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2 hours ago, jsfarm said:Is it the button you push for stitch length?
No that is the same,the 156 has another button on top.Like I wrote on FB either the belt is on wrong or the cams aren't in the slot on the bottom shafts.
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2 minutes ago, jsfarm said:My machine is a 155, not a 156
Still adjusts the same,the only difference is the 156 has a push button to adjust the height of the foot walk on the top.
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@jsfarm 211g165 manual.pdf There's 2 -ways to adjust the machine to feed in reverse,first check that the timing belt is installed correctly as shown on page #24 in this manual.If not when you adjust it so it is you'll have to re-time the hook.
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@shazbaz There's a service info on the 111w in this file,you have to scroll some to find it.
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Are you holding onto the needle thread for the first 3 stitches?
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1 hour ago, SingerDad said:Yes. I adjusted that yesterday. I think I will need a larger surface area feed dog to make contact with the kick foot. The main problem is the lack of feet available. Current feet are around 50$. Way too much for this fun project. I will try a different feed dog and plate combo first. Btw. I did look at the manual and all adjustments are correct.
If your sure that's correct you can rotate the cam on the top shaft(there's 2 screws,one might be in a slot on the shaft),the one in the back where the rod comes out.IDK which way you'll need to turn it but try one way & if it gets better you got lucky if not go the other way.
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Are you sure the feed timing is correct?You want the feed dog all the way back & starting to go down as the needle enters the material.
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Looks like the feed cam slipped 180,this is the cam on the rightside on the top shaft underneath the oblong plate.It have 2-screws,loosen both & put the screwdriver in one screw to hold the cam & turn the handwheel half way around,snug one screw & check the feed it should be close,adjust one way or the other as needed.
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6 minutes ago, SingerDad said:Thanks Cowboy! Thats what I needed to know.
I guess you can just dremel down the full gib to allow thicker thread then?
Sure can.
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54 minutes ago, SingerDad said:That’s my question. Pfaff list multiple numbers for hooks and gibs on the 145 parts list. I am questioning is it only the gib that’s really different?
Yes,the only difference is the raised gib (for thinner threads) otherwise they are the same.
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@Ken2 Here's a couple pics.You can lay a piece of cardboard on top of the arm & make a pattern.If I made this one I would of used some thin angle iron & 2 screws for the mounting tabs.
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Yes good machine,parts from the 29K71 will fit it,so it's better then a 29-4 which take different parts many which are not made anymore.
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15 hours ago, alainbriot said:The bobbin case on the Cobra Class 26 and the Juki LS-1341 are different. On the Cobra class 26 the bobbin case stays on the machine; the user only removes the bobbin itself. On the Juki LS-1341 both the bobbin case and the bobbin are removed to replace the bobbin. So, which machine is the Cobra Class 26 bobbin a clone of? It is not a clone of the Juki LS-1341 since the bobbin assembly is different.
Older model Juki 341
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Wrong needle,these are home machine needles & are approx 1/4" too short,you need to buy 135x16 needles.You shouldn't have any problem finding them,but if you do we have them in stock.
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20 hours ago, BrickCityBeasts said:Bob, do you know what screw I need to order before this thing comes loose again?
Looks like screw #1365.See attached parts list. 226R-1.pdf (consew.com)
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11 minutes ago, Jayzimmerman3 said:Hi all,
I recently purchased a singer 111w154. I used to have a 114w and loved it, reupholstering an old boat I had. Fast forward to today, my new boat needs the best bases redone, and I’ve opted to get an old singer again and have at it.
this machine was out in almost every regard, I’m guessing someone tried to fix it and gave up. I went through, timed the upper shaft to the lower, timed the hook and set all adjustments there per the manual.
The issue I am having is that the upper thread gets caught in the tension disks, and won’t budge. Doesn’t matter if I set the machine to no tension or full tension on the disks. The top thread lays flat, and then the machine will stop feeding altogether and start pulling the slack through. If I continue, it will pull the top thread through from old stitches.
I’ve gone through a bunch of Uwe’s videos (super helpful), and went through this forum a bit but could not find anything yet on this specific issue. Even with the thumb nut all the way backed off, it’ll have really loose stitches for a bit, till the thread goes through the tension disks, then gets to the same point as listed above. No grooves in the tension disks.
happy to provide any needed photos or info, but can anyone point me in the right direction? Using 135/17 needles, size 20( I believe), 12wt (Tex 69) thread, sewing vinyl.
located in Denver, PA 17517
Once in a while the lower disc behind the check spring splits & can pinch the thread.You also want to make sure it isn't getting caught on the thread stand?
Help with timing hook (Juki Lu563)
in Leather Sewing Machines
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In the pic above it looks like the point of the hook isn't close enough to the needle.And once in a while the needle hole in the needlebar gets elongated (on the leftside)from repetitive tightening of the needle . I've seen where the needle actually looks crooked when tightened if that's not the case here you should loosen the hook saddle & move it to the left..