RockyAussie

There are 2 different machines in use on them. The one with the binding tape is an Elizabeth TK-335 which is basically a copy of the Pfaff 335. The machine came with the binding parts already on it and the tape folding part came from the dealer but they are pretty common to get over the net. The Cowboy one is a CB246 which is basically a copy of a Juki machine. I believe they don't stock them in the States but Techsew have a version which is 2600 if you want to check them out. This video I did awhile back shows some of the features I think are important -

I am no expert at doing piping either but for what it is worth I do the front or back panel first with the piping marked out glued on the stitched around the edge to hold it firm as shown in these pictures - This one shows the piping glued to attach to the back piece The corners have to be clipped to allow the piping to go around the tight curve The join overlap I do as shown I then stitch around the outer edge I then attach with clips the panel to the gusset as shown - This video shows the next step sewing the pieces together After that I run a binder tape around on the inside as shown in this video - The finished bag which is only a prototype at this stage hence a bit ordinary. Hope that is of some help.

Intriguing idea. If you want to be able to do it on a regular basis I would suggest making a mold the diameter of the rope in the shape of handle then using a series of clamps around the outer edge let it go until nearly dry. Then remove it and lay flat to stamp where you want the name. Next trim the surplus and do your stitching or do a simpler stitch and remove the excess after.

There are a lot of things that can cause mis stitching on these machines. I would like to see a close up picture of your thread path around the top tension discs and how you have the thread up to the take up lever. I can not see any adjuster for the thread take up lever on your machine but that may be just the picture.

Most of these things can be done pretty easily if the base machine is strong enough for the work. Many times if you check back on the machine manufactures models you will find that the same base model can be for fabrics or leather etc. Things like the thread return springs and needle hole size etc all need to be considered. That pointy thing that catches the thread loop can generally be moved to allow for a larger than spec needle. If you have something in mind you want to do well lets hear it.

Sounds good. Thanks for correcting me on the LS 1342 as against the LS 1341. Just check the sump, it should for some reason have a bung which has a washer that can get to leak easily. I checked mine the other day and all of the oil has seeped out. Ruined the edge of the stuck on table strip.

What I found works best for me is to give the leather a couple of light coats of sealer before I do the engraving or cutting. This stops any charcoal rubbing showing up and I then either use a high blast of air to remove some or sometimes I just hold it under the tap and scrub with a toothbrush. Once dry I generally give it another coat to seal the engraved part.

This video shows what we here in OZ call a Cowboy CB6900 and I believe in the states it's called a CB1341. Note what I am saying in it about getting the right table. The normal table that most supply is just plain BS.

Sorry mate I missed this post, I have been real busy lately. I have to say the 341 and the 1341 are way different machines. Both good machine copies of Juki models but the 1341 has the knob on top for quick presser foot height adjustments, has 2 tension dials for the thicker type threads and work and a full on oil feed system that works too well for some. With them you will always get surplus oil that needs soaking up around the needle area when left for awhile. Main thing of difference is that the top feet feed and needle system on the 1341 has a rectangular setup that allows the stitches to remain evenly spaced whether thick or thin leather is fed through. It does not go with a pendulum type motion as many of the other machines do which mean shorter stitches as the material gets thicker.

Good to hear you found it. We would have been guessing for any good answers on that one.

If you want to do any serious sort of production making leather goods you need 3 main tools. The right type sewing machine for your work. The right sort of clicker press and a bottom feed skiving machine. If you have a look at my web page at the wide variety of products shown there I can say that more than 90% of the products use these 3 machines. A look through my YouTube channel will show some videos of us using these machines. Wild Harry YT

Nice thought there old mate. I am sure they will love them heaps.

The knife may need to come forward a little but see what happens when you reduce the feed stone pressure about1/2 turn first. The adjuster right at the rear back.

Nice looking work there @TomE

Its not too bad. I would bone slicker some pressure over the whole area and heavily redo the crease line as that should be able to pull the leather tighter into the groove area.

A picture would help maybe. A double crease line possible?

WOW that is a bargain. For anyone needing some pointers on how to set up one of these from the start check this video I made awhile back - If you check some of the other videos on my channel you might find a few more related ones that could help.

I came across a servo that looks like that one recently doing the same thing. We ordered in a new motor to replace it but before doing that we took the motor off to see if we could find anything. I think there must be a magnet thing inside because when we gave it a shake to start with there was a rattle noise but then it stopped rattling. We thought well lets give it another try on the machine and it then went fine. Its been going strong now for maybe 3 months without any noise. Maybe the sudden stop they do sometimes shook the magnet loose, I don't know. He now has a backup motor if needed now but means he would have to drill some new table mounting holes etc which is why we tried the other old one first.

There are several reasons that could cause this problem unfortunately. Sometimes even high quality leathers to start with can age and deteriorate in time and the wrong conditions. Some leather are tanned poorly and if the finishing is not done well it can crack easily. Generally I test a strip of leather before I make it up by bending it over fairly tightly to see how the grain is running and if it looks likely to crack. There are a couple of places over here that sell cheap veg under different names so if you want to give me a call feel welcome to do so through my Wild Harry contact phone Wild Harry Regards Brian

For anyone interested I can vouch that the Narrow presser foot set made by Patric are a very useful addition to have for any of the 441 clones. I have been making and selling molds for wet casting a lot of different pouches which can be seen on my YouTube channel and most of these get stitched using this foot set. You can see on this video where I am using one of Patric's sets stitching up a Leatherman pouch which I have made using the mold I make and sell.

Nice deep forming and the edge finish looks good as well. Like the formed belt holder part and the one piece pattern.

I think @kgg pretty well answered that for me. Possibly if I had the printer he has I would be better off speed wise but either way not having a printer backup leaves me nervous at times. I hate not being able to get people what they pay for as quick as I say. If one of these parts go bang and I am left waiting for a replacement I would not sleep well. So far no body has had to wait more than a week luckily. I have looked a little at the Bambu printer but I as yet nervous about the operating system not being open source exactly. I could do a lot more improvements on the one I have yet and with another new one I may be able to get time to do some of these changes.

Looks like you have them set alright which makes me think the snaps are too week. As you already have them installed I would suggest some light tapping around the rim on the side that holds the clip ring. A little resistance there should make it harder to open but too much and you may have trouble getting it closed. Good move

Thanks @kgg I am quickly learning over the last couple of months how long parts don't last in a 3d printer. Its a Tronxy x5sa pro and I can get it to do good quality but the power supply fan, the parts cooling fan the extruder bearings amongst a few other parts have all needed replacing in this time. I will have to get another one pretty soon cause people just keep on ordering and I just can not get stock ready ahead let alone keeping up with my normal customer orders.

Could you show a picture of how you have installed the snaps? I would have thought that the snaps you show would have had too long a length for that thickness leather and that may be stopping the snaps from fully closing as they should.