shoepatcher
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Status Updates posted by shoepatcher
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You get your clicker up and running?
glenn
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I have been busy keeping all the plates spinning on their sticks. The clicker is very close. We got it all cleaned up, resurfaced the cutting board and I have a new 1/2" aluminum plate to go under the beam. I just need to rewire the motor control switch and plug it in. I have some cordura projects coming and it will be great to have it working. Cutting material is a real pain on production work. I'll post an update with photos when I get it finished. Hopefully before January. I have to get a table set up for the 'new old stock' Juki 563 I found. That machine is a real gem. No time to get bored. Always something to do. I hope you are doing well.
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Al,
what parts you looking for your on your Claes?
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Hi,I havé dismantled à 200-3 and have New bobbin case and many other parts ready.
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ok so how can I help you?
glenn
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Do you need any of the parts considering the fact that İ live in İstanbul,TURKEY.
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bartug1,
since you are not going after the Adler 267-373, can you tell me where it was Advertised?
glenn
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Is that a 205-370? Is so, the owner should have been shot leaving it in that condition!!~!! . Any questions, contact Allen at Weaver. He is the foremost expert on that machine having worked on them for over 20 years.
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Shaggs,
The person to call on this machine is Allen Burkholder at Weaver Leather. He has worked on these machines for over 20 years and I consider him the best on that machine in the US. I have 4 205-370 machines at work and one of my own at home.
It sounds like the machine is out of time, i.e. shuttle moved on the main bottom shaft. Allen can walk you thru the timing of the hook. You can reach him at 1-800 weaver1 ext. 223. Tell him I sent you.
glenn miller
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Jeff,
Did you end up selling the lot that was posted in March or did you piece meal it?
glenn
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Al,
No real reason to separate the head form the arm, even for painting. Those bolts are usually very tight, almost like lock tight. As to paint, you might try a heat lamp on the machine after you have painted it. Cheaper than sending it out.
I would just spray can it with black lacquer once you have primed it real good with a sandable heavy primer. Make sure if you use black lacquer after you prime it that the lacquer will not lift or bubble your primer. test it on something. If it does, use black gloss enamel , then clear coat over it after you have applied any decals
glenn
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Thanks Glenn, I appreciate your support and advise. Your help has been invaluable.. I'm going to do what you say if I can't perfect the japanning. I've been experimenting with a couple of recipes, and actually I'm baking two small cast iron parts as I type, want to see how hard the japanning is when it cools. Thanks again Glenn.
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