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About Tulsaman

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    New Hampshire
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  • Leatherwork Specialty
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    anything..I like to learn
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  1. It's hard to find if or what brand of servo's with needle positioners will have the heel back function. Or what you call the rock back. Especially with the 750 watt brushless. Can you recommend one that can get me going? I have a Brother B837 it will go on. I run a Juki 1510N-7 for my main functions but the Brother is for backup and certain nasty dirty type repairs.
  2. An update to an old thread. I've owned the 1510N-7 for 14 yrs now. Yes it's expensive but worth every single penny for someone who is a professional and in the trade to make money. It saves much time and does a better job period. I've been sewing 50 yrs now and owned many other machines. 206 ,111w155,211w155, 226RB,B837, 563. I will never never go back to any of those machine types. That goes for Juki's 1510 etc. And against what the poster above said about the 510 juki motor I disagree totally. It has been flawless and so controled it's amazing. One stitch a time with 9 layers of upholtstery leather then jump right to thousands of stitches per minute. I recently tried a Brother B837 with a 3/4 hp Consew server motor and could not get the performance at all like the Juki 510.
  3. Mike Do yourself a favor and get a better machine.... spend a little more money and get a reverse and newer model. They are so much better and had for less then $1000...you can get a larger bobbin,easy to change stitch length dial,presser foot adjustment..not to mention not worn down... take your time and look around... It's an investment and will hold value for when you want to sell. And it will do a good job for you...
  4. My shop's largest machine is a Juki 1510-7 amazing over the 563's 111's etc. I know a large Awing company that won't buy a 1510-7 ..still uses a 563.. Fancy new truck tho... for the amount of sewing inches or miles we do in a year it's a wast to use no less then a lu1510-7 type for our Canvas,Upholstery,Leather Garment type work. I wanted to up to the new M series Adlers ..they are $6000 now.. couldn't see it being my 10 yr old Juki would only be worth $1800 if that... Nice machine thou that M series..
  5. Oh how many hours and days I've spent trying to time these machines over the 45 years..I've been sewing.. I'm lucky now in the last 11 yrs there is a top 2 generation sewing machine sales and mechanic who for $70 will come and time out a machine.. Last episode I was sewing about 9 layers of heavy upholstery leather and drove the needle bar up out of time. ...on my Juki 1510n-7... worth the $70.. I kept working while he was at the machine..
  6. I owned your machine for years... all I can say is many Bonded Polyesters aren't good. i always had issues with cheap thread. I use Hemmingway Bartlett Dabond 2000 from Sailmakers Supply.. it's the best I've used..Also I use the Grotz Ti coated needles..I sew many types of nylon webbing and no issues..I sold the Brother 10 yrs ago. Now use a Juki 1510n-7... Make sure your tensions are right... and sometimes I adjust the scarf towards me to help throw the loop out. But your top tension may be too tight on the top. Try the bottom tension very light and adjust the top accordingly. . As it will fray while going around the hook because of the strong tension . Fray will be at some point coming into the tension guides,needle eye etc. Also you can try using the next size needle to help penetrate the webbing better.
  7. Plays on my win 7..fine.. I do use an aftermarket mov player..
  8. The Bobbin tension is your issue I bet..you adjusted it.. it shouldn't be tight at all.. you should be able to pull it out of the feed plate hole easy. Also there is a lot of garbage thread out there... they say bonded but it's crap... I use Hemmingway Bartlett Dabond 2000 and it's so nice....Ask me how I know.
  9. I know in Seiko Divers watches ..you can get one "made in Japan" or the same model but made in Taiwan or somewhere. The Japan one is usually tuned better or a few things to give it just a bit better watch. I wonder if it's this way with the 206... Seiko..slightly better parts or tuned better..vs Conso made in ???? Hopefully Conso has Made in Japan on it still.. But thinking.. Swiss Made trade mark doesn't mean 100% Swiss Made. Google Swiss Made.. or better yet "Made in Japan" Which is more purer to the meaning today??
  10. Isn't the 206 a lower end model of the walking foot? The 226 is up one I believe..When I bought my first Consew 226 it had Seiko parts.. back in 1972 ish... Before the big Chinese invasion. So now even Seiko and or Consew might have Chinese parts etc. They might be the same machine... when I bought my Juki LU1510-7 machine and I knew they were having Chinese make some copies. I insisted the machine be made in Japan or I'd return it fast. It came with the sticker out front Made in Japan. Maybe the Seiko might have some thing like that. Best thing is to try them and or a dealer that will stand behind it. I noticed parts on the Consew back in 72 weren't as nice as the 211 or 111's we used. Probably worse today. I know my 1510 has plastic stuff that I'm not thrilled at.
  11. You are so right... in 45 yrs of sewing ...I can't agree more.
  12. From what I've read the Vertical hook machine in the 226 or 111w etc. are a stronger machine then the newer 206, etc horizontal hooks... I'm not talking about any other classes just these... I wonder what that is about? I know the horizontals' are less money to buy...new any way.. I've always bought vertical hooks to be sure of no issues.
  13. There is a slot on the slide with a space in it. Use a screw driver and pry out the arm part of the slot just a little and that will give you tension. That's what it's for.
  14. Clean machine.... limited forum here to sell it... best to reach out on other sales sites as well. Plus not a common item to sell.. limited market.
  15. Well I installed a new belt 111w156 I picked up as a basket case...the Arm Shaft Bushing came out tough as well. The machine had sat for many years.. so it was in need of some good banging. Thanks to you guys that posted above. I took a heavy long screw driver and cut the tip off so it would reach way into the machine to keep the bushing moving out..It just didn't want to come out until it ran out of machine housing. Then it fell out... .I thought the thing was trashed as the bearing and race came out of the bushing. I called Bob at Toledo and he was great and found parts but had to order them.. I didn't want to wait... So I went back to look at the beast. But on inspection it seemed to be ok or could be ok so I ground and polished off the pound marks and sanded down the inside bushing run in the machine. Pressed the bearing back into the bushing then the race washer I call it. The concave side in. Added oil to it and on it. And seemed fine...bearings etc weren't damaged. Just the bushing chewed up from the punching. I Used a wood block to tap it in. Still wouldn't go in like the video on Utube were it just slides out for the guy. Ha.... Got it running and it sews so nice...nicer it seems then my Juki LU1510N-7 ...Old machines run quieter I was told. Gave it a new table top,light,went thru the stand,etc. Added the Conso knee lifter roller for the bottom of the lifter rod..lifts so smooth now. My first machine like this was 111W155 at the Leather shop in Ptown and Milford CT then the Conso 226R I bought new in 1973 I believe...then a 211...Brother LS2B837..Juki 1510N-7..Had to restore this one for old time sake..
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