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I am working on a dropout scabbard for an axe, something like this:http://dalesiogrp.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/DropOutSwivelAxeScabbard6lb.jpg I am making a template with a manila folder. Is there a general guide or a way to calculate how much extra wiggle room I should include on my template to account for extra leather need to account for the bends bending made in the leather? The leather I’m using is around 12oz

I agree, but I’ve seen a picture somewhere showing it can be used with multiple widths. The more narrow the belt, the less taper on the sides you will have. It still looked good with a 1 1/2 belt. Down at a 3/4 strap it just had the corners chopped off.

There is also the multi use/multi size strap end https://www.buckleguy.com/152-2-multi-use-strap-end-punch/

Good suggestion. I might give that a shot if things don’t go well.

Thanks for the suggestions. I’m interested in the alpha 6 paint. Do you have any more info on the paint? How does it compare to Angelus?

I love the look of the vinegarooned leather but I’m having trouble finishing it afterwards. I’d like to paint and resolene most of the items I vinegaroon. The issue I’m having is once I re-oil the leather after vinegarooning the leather it’s hard to get paint or resolene to get a good bond and they wear or peel off easily. Anyone have any good suggestions to deal with this?

Sounds like maybe I should change my order of operations to paint before oiling. Will resolene stick to oiled leather? Obviously I can’t oil after the resolene

I made this radio strap. Stamped it, vinegarooned, oiled it, painted the letters with a few coats of Angelus paint then put on two coats of resolene. After working a shift with the strap being warn between gear and admittedly getting some decent rubbing on the lettering, the paint is starting to peel off. My last radio strap that I made had a fair amount of heavy use and I never had the paint peel. I think I waited a little over a day between oiling and painting the letters. I am guessing this wasn’t long enough and the paint didnt penetrate the leather. How long do you usually wait between oiling and painting or finishing? Any suggestions on salvaging this or is a scrap and do over with it already begin finished with resolene?

For what ever reason finding that style spring buckle is hard. The ones that are readily available are not very good for leather. I purchased some black spring buckles from strapworks.com a while ago and got the style you are looking for. On my next order they sent me the different style ones. I emailed them and they said they didn’t really differentiate between the two stiles and just sent out what ever they had. If you find somewhere that has these in black please let me know.

Thanks for the information oleskiver! I tinker around making firefighter stuff. With the black dye I had a lot of rub off. Also when it gets beat up you can see the natural leather color. The vinegaroon has no rub off and penetrates deeply so I’ve stuck with that. My latest endeavor has been to try stamping and tooling a helmet shield, which is just letters and numbers.

I’m working on some basic stamping and tooling. The pieces are going to be black in the end. The best luck I’ve had making things black is to dip dye them in a vinegaroon mix. If I dip dye pieces after they have been stamped or tooled will I loose any of my imprint? I find it easier to to stamp and tool before its black, but would it be better for me to dip dye the pieces first?

I like the seeder stamp. I think the raised center would match the letter stamps pretty well

I’ve got a 1/2 alphabet stamp set I am working with and need to make a period. I am looking for a small hollow tube to try, but am curious what everybody else is using or if anybody has found any good tubing to use.

That’s it, thanks!

Thanks, I’ve tried that style, they work well with webbing but leather does not pull through smoothly. I’m hoping to find some like the picture I posted with more of a scoop/ramp by the teeth. Anybody seen these offered before?