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keithski122

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Everything posted by keithski122

  1. I use a sew off tag.Just a two inch square of material, sew item, lock off, sew onto tag, sew onto new material, lock off, sew item and so on.If its not sewing off the end of the item then the tag is easier to hold than two loose threads.
  2. A tip for sharpening is to run a sharpie pen over the cutting edge before using the grinding wheel, you can then see where its sharpening the blade.
  3. At the moment all binding I do is by hand so just playing about to see if I can get a neater/quicker finish, if it doesn't work no great loss I'll continue to do it by hand. The set up above worked in a straight line apart from stretching the binding causing the carpet to wrinkle.I don't think I tried it on a curve.I've set it on a spare plate so if I get it to work it will be a straight forwards job just to change the plate and the feet and off I go.Binder is fixed as close as posssible to the feet on max stitch length with a couple of mm clearance, once set should not need moving, height is a low down as possible.With the new attachment I've mounted it using an adapter plate so if I need to adjust it back or forth its a simple job to make a new plate.Machine is a typical tw1-899 used for all aspects of auto upholstery so can't be set up purely for binding.
  4. On a flatbed machine.I've previously fitted a different binder but never got it working quite right due to the binder not being suitable for a thicker material.It worked but seemed to stretch the binding.Heres some pics of how it was with the older binder and binding results.
  5. Binder attachment:- https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=369&product_id=1900
  6. Thank you. Its for carpet binding with the binding being strips of leather or vinyl, maximum I guess of three metres long so no spool.I'll leave the wire off and see how it goes, at the moment its more important to get everything else lined up right. Just for information binder has throat of 9mm material thickness, with binding material size of 26mm (1 inch) 1.8mm thickness.
  7. I'm just in the process of sorting out a binder attachment and was wondering what the bent wire is for. I know the binding feeds through it but is it for extra tension or just to guide it into the binder better? On my set up it will need rebending as the flatbed of my machine is in the way, however this means the tape will be higher than the binder shell.
  8. I've fitted several needle positioners(inc. a juki 563), mostly I've drilled a hole in the side of the machine and tapped a thread in the hole.Its probably possible to do it another way but you would have to get creative with some bracketry.
  9. I've also done this but on a servo motor machine.I've extended both the pedal arm and the controller arm, possibly only by a few inches on each but every little helps.
  10. Wow. I saw the title then looked and saw it was something I posted. Easy fix although not very helpful to other people. After hours of messing about trying to get it to work nicely it got stuck in the deepest darkest corner of the workshop and I bought a secondhand newer global machine.This one works really well without all the hassle of sharpening, twiddling this, twiddling that and still getting nowhere.
  11. Thanks all. Its my bosses machine and any repair won't be an expensive one so unfortunately that rules out the efka option. I did have a quick look under the covers and spied the various solenoids and air cylinders and did think about a switch to opperate the right solenoid.I'll have another look when I have some spare time.When I bought my own machine it had all the electric options but did have a hand operated foot lift but no knee lift, I did find it had a spindle underneath that I could connect up a universal knee lever. Shame this doesn't have the same.
  12. We have a durkopp adler n291 at work that has the all singing all dancing electronic everything..............unfortunately it doesn't work.There is some fault with the efka v720 control unit or the motor, now an easy cheap fix would be to replace the motor and control unit with a new servo motor but the machine doesn't have a manual footlift. Does anybody know if it can be retro fitted or if there is another way around this?
  13. I found that my skiver(no vacuum) would pull the waste back up around the feed wheel, I've since changed the stone wheel for a yellow rubber one and this(so far) has completely solved this problem.Saved me a lot of work in fitting an aftermarket vacuum.I think it also has made the feed easier or smoother, a very worthy modification.
  14. I have this machine with an efka control system not the 720 but a i70 motor and c300 panel.It probaly does the same as the 720. I have a few downloads if you go this route
  15. I found the best change I've done to my skiver is to replace the stone wheel with a plastic/nylon one. I had problems with waste material being drawn back up over the wheel, change of wheel resolved this issue.
  16. Having a skiver set up correctly in my mind is worth paying the extra as one that needs setting up will really cause frustration.Where I work my boss bought an old fortuna second hand and with no amount of fiddling about could I get it to work with any consistancy.I myself bought a newer but again secondhand chinese version and ended up paying a technician to set it up.While it may look more simple than a sewing machine you have spring tension and angle of feed roller plus height adjustment, then you have left/right adjustment of bell knife, also height and angle of pressure foot adding into that the fact that if you adjust one thing it can vary another adjustment.Material of feed wheel can affect how it pulls the leather into the blade.Owning a skiving machine and getting it to work correctly is a contant education.
  17. To be honest I have no idea how its set up, I just bolted it on so the material to be bound was in roughly the right position with the needle in roughly the right postion and it seemed to work. Its to be used for binding carpet with vinyl material but the thickness of the vinyl causes it to stretch slightly so I need to get a binder with a thicker gap for binding material.
  18. This is how I mounted a binder to my machine, I need to change the binder size but should work well like this.Also nice and easy to fit or remove.
  19. HoHsing i70 manual, keep scrolling through and its english after the chinese version. http://www.hohsing.com/download/i70m-manual-tw-en.pdf http://docs.makini24.ru/Ho-Hsing/Manual_HVP-70-4-ED_2007-01_IMCA.pdf
  20. They both look like servo motors to me, I guess you just lock the controller box a what speed you need. I'm still looking at doing this mod to my skiver but I'd like to get both motors under the table.
  21. Great idea, I did go smaller in size with needle but as we didn't have bigger I couldn't try.I will order some bigger to try. I did forget to mention but with the previous machine I used, a juki 563, and the same sized needle and thread this material sewed fine.
  22. Thank you, good to know what the sizes are. Unfortunately its not fluff as I've since had the shuttle apart when I had some thread jam it up. Picture of vinyl lower face.
  23. I have a typical tw1 -899 which I use for auto upholstery, not a common machine so I'll post a pic of it. Thread I use is UK size 20 (poss. tkt size), I don't know what the US equivalent size is but is big enough for a decorative top stitch though probably not as big as belt or holster size.Needle size is 135/17 hole size 21. Generally the machine sews great however when I sew car hooding which is a cloth base, rubber center and vinyl topping the lower thread is loose.I've tried tightening the top thread but it feels too tight and starts to fray and snap.Shortening the stitch length helps but is not the right way to correct the problem and is still not tight enough. My thoughts are that the lower thread needs tightening however its at its tightest. I cannot get near the machine at the moment due to corona virus however when I get back to work I would like to be armed with some ideas to try. Having huge problems uploading corrct sized photos so only included a picure of the lower face of the hooding material with the fault, lower grey line is with 6mm stitch, upper grey line is with stitch shortened to 4mm. Stitching on vinyl is fine.I'll upload more pics if I can work out how to do it.
  24. Wasn't really looking for this one but I wanted similar to you...........large top loading bobbin,servo motor,large stitch , singer style foot. Found a juki 1510 but the supplier after initial contact and me sending samples for test sewing never got back to me.Looking at a global 1515 but waiting for one a decent money to come up and then saw this on ebay. A six hour round trip to get it but certainly worth it.
  25. I bought this about 6 months ago for £800.Its a typical tw1-899 but with singer style feet, also the same as a seiko bew-8blcs and a brother ls2-b891.meets all your needs but difficult to find.When I was looking a global wf1515 also had all the features your looking for.
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