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Everything posted by Wedgetail

  1. Try using a low tac contact adhesive like frisket film. I've used it to make stencils before, which didn't mark the leather... but haven't tried laser engraving with the frisket film on the leather before. Would try it myself first but my laser blew up over a year ago and I haven't got around to fixing it yet due to an overly long 'honey do' list.
  2. It's this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/WUTA-Leather-Craft-Pattern-Clutch-AcrylicTemplate-Zipper-Installer-Mold/153228874232?hash=item23ad2711f8:g:wgEAAOSwTY9ZZdLT
  3. Wuta pattern, the acrylic set with the spacer block for shaping the zipper around onto the inner. I know exactly what you mean... I cut it square per the pattern and can just see a bit of it... it bugs me. Using thinner leather helped (pattern called for 1.6mm or 4oz, I used .8mm or 2oz), because it didn't have to make such a wide turn at the spine... but came with other problems (like being too thin to cover the Puckering of the zipper tape around corners so looks rippled) But I looked around on the web and noticed two things: 1. There are a tonne of wallets with just exactly that problem... using thinner leather seems to make it less obvious. 2. Wallets that don't seem to have that problem are stitched all around, where my stitch line stopped at the spine... if I had tried to stitch all around it should pull the zipper together with the flesh side of the outer. Access was a problem. Trying to get even stitches around there would have been a folly. Next time I'll try to make one with the gussets cut where they go around the zipper pouch inside the wallet... that will mean I can open it up wider for stitching. Then sew the gussets together in the centre of the wallet and edge finish them... access does not seem to be a problem then, because the zipper section in the middle tends to move easily back and forward.
  4. Thanks guys, most of the horrors are pretty well covered. I got some shop debris under the outer panel when I was gluing it up and had to pull it apart to separate after the glue dried... which made a mess of the stiffened board underneath it. And stretched the leather a little so now it looks a little ripples. I also used a tape width that was too narrow, so I had to try and stitch too close to the edge to catch it (not even sure I did in some places, if I'm honest) which meant that on the inside bottom left you can see where I missed the internal liner entirely. Oops... Also didn't get the zipper to lay flat enough around the top right corner there on the outer photo so you can see the zipper rippling under the leather. Other than all of that... It is alright. Haha The leather is the ochre colour glazed kangaroo from birdsall leather. It's my favourite tan colour they do. The inside is their dark brown glazed... not sure what it is but second darkest in their glazed range (not the havana). The thread is just plain old white which I used to contrast on the interior
  5. First project after a good few months. Not super happy with it, a few mistakes made that I could have easily avoided... But it looks nice so here it is! Made from kangaroo leather around 2oz. Hand stitched as normal. YKK zippers. The flowers in the picture are from a Jacaranda tree in my back yard, very pretty this time of year
  6. Well look on the bright side... you just found a way to add a variant of an existing pattern to your product offerings, which might appeal to some more people
  7. Imagine that would make life easier to get your straight edge before cutting your belt straps, Brian!
  8. They aren't the lightest of things that's for sure... Even though mine is only a bench top mount, on the floor it stands about waist height I suppose, it is pretty solid! Wouldn't want to put it in a space you intend to use for multiple purposes.
  9. Patience is a virtue... I waited about a year and a half, but finally the auto parts shop at the end of my street put their 6 tonne shop press on special, just about 50% off.... was AUD$304 down to $160 with bonus $60 accessory pack... which is cool, just in case I ever need the dies. Now I just need to find a bit of plate steel... good job the father in law is a steel fabricator maybe we can dig something out of the scrap bin. Given that a little clicker press with a smaller bed width is about $1300 here.... I should be able to deck out my shop with this shop press, steel plates, cutting mat, and a heap of dies for the same price as paying for one of those. Sure, it won't be as quick as a clicker press, but it will certainly be quicker and more accurate than my scalpel for the repeatable things I make.
  10. Chevre is French for Goat. Goat is used mostly as lining leather. And is a good choice for it. Common lining skins are goat, lamb, pig, and cow... and when it comes to lining, the choice should be based on more than just being light weight, and consider instead what you want to make. lamb skins are beautifully soft and smooth grained, but can be temperamental... certainly not hard wearing, and stains.... oh the stains... good for things that will be protected from moisture and contact. Pig is nice, but tough, and has a distinctive open grain that is not as subtle. Can be stretchy... Good for hard wearing things. And budget conscious choice. Cow is the cheapest usually per sqft. Not very strong in lining weights, so won't wear too well over the long term and can be very stretchy because of its looser grain... which also has a strong texture...but it is budget friendly so great for beginner projects. Goat makes a great lining. It has a distinctive but subtle grain texture, is much harder wearing, is not stupidly expensive (unless you buy premium French stuff =p haha), doesn't stretch as bad as sheep skin or cow, and doesn't crease too bad when it bends. A great all rounder. The stuff @YinTx used here comes in a huge range of colours, and is regarded among the best in the world... and yes, I'm totes jello Beautiful work as always Yin!
  11. Ditch the threaded barrel... get you some quick clamps This is mine, same tandy pony. @andrewsejlv beautiful stuff, I love the contrast.
  12. A couple more simple wallets. The first two are kangaroo leather. Each are 3 slots, one has an open centre pocket. The other has a burgundy latigo back, split to about 1.3mm and then lined with kangaroo leather. Sadly this one is a bit of a second... the outer was a bit thicker than normal and i didn't account enough for it so it ripples a little when closed. Might be able to save it if I cut the stitching and move the inner over a couple of stitches... but then it'd be uneven, and it works fine as it is... so I'll give it to someone for free instead.
  13. Aha, guess the colour settings on my screen are off! Haha Thanks Interesting! Might have to check them out.
  14. Nice! I reckon she will love it. Practical choice with the tuck lock too... i love using them, both for easy use and appearance. Which tannery did you get the dark brown latigo from? I make a lot of latigo dog collars and leads, but am pretty limited to either black or burgundy. Though I do see Wickett and Craig has some in various colours.
  15. .... just out of left field but @gmace99 has some youtube vids up about burnishing edges. Veg tan stuff, but he uses pearl glue or wallpaper paste... could be worth a red hot go!
  16. Hahahahaha! That's mint. Although I wonder if the marketing department is giving you a "bum steer"?
  17. I bet! The lining seems intimidating too, not to make it too loose or too small... and that the pockets end up in the right place when you get it all stuck together.
  18. Great stuff! I like the way the zipper is integrated too, and would like to make one like that at some point... the mrs always says that totes should have a way to close/lock. Real pretty, I reckon those would moooove pretty quickly off the shelf!
  19. Here is one I put together last night for a work mate, took me about 3hrs. Might have to make myself one now!
  20. I've not had much experience with painting edges compared to these other members, but did have a crack at using the pencil once or twice. The key difference between a pencil and a cone shaped applicator with grooves in it is that the applicator rolls. If you don't roll the pencil too, you'll just end up smudging paint around... that and the grooves store more paint for longer and smoother runs. But for both, if you are getting a bead of paint on the applicator that looks like a drop, you've got too much paint and will end up with a big glob at the start which will give you a wobbly line for sure. Less paint, roll the pencil along the edge. Those are my tips Now I do have a fair amount of experience with painting models and miniatures. So if you want to have a crack at using a small paint brush (good for corners mostly) try this: Thin the paint down a bit, load the brush so that it gets the paint right into the middle of the bristles (that's where the paint should be carried by a brush, not on the outside bristles). Wipe off excess on a cloth or paper towel so it is not globbed on the bristles, and use the side of the brush, not the tip, to apply the paint... think about applying the paint by using the side of the brush at an angle like you would use to sharpen a knife. For me, a brush is best for tight spots.
  21. Thanks guys, Yeah I love love love my pricking irons from wuta, very good quality and a much better tool than the price point suggests. The templates are pretty good too, except I wasn't a fan of the tassel template. The parts are all the correct sizes, but I'd have expected the slots to be fully cut like a hair comb so you don't have to measure the cuts and do them one at a time like normal... maybe acrylic isn't a suitable medium for that? I dunno... maybe I'll try my own when the ol' laser is back up and running. Zippers, ah, zippers... they my nemesis. If anyone knows a good supplier of zippers that either is in or will ship to australia for reasonable money, let me know! Quality aside, zippers can be tempermental little buggers. If it's not aligned just right they can bunch up and then you have to hold the zip at just the right angle to get it sliding easily. This one, I got right and it opens easy enough... but better quality zipper = better experience for the end user.
  22. Just a simple little clutch for Mrs Wedgetail on her birthday. It is made from cognac coloured glazed Kangaroo skin, with a chrome tanned kangaroo tassel. The interior is lined with pigskin, with a card pocket made from the same kangaroo as the outer. The outside is saddle stitched at 3.38mm spacing using Wuta pricking irons, and 1mm black braided poly... would have been better to use .6 or .8. Edges are painted with black edge paint, my first attempt using edge paint instead of burnishing! Easy enough to do, takes longer, but looks great I think. If you're interested, the template for this came from Wuta which you can find online. The templates are good and accurate... instructions would be good for new leathercrafters but with a bit of a 'cuppa and a think' and maybe watching a bit of youtube, most should be able to figure it out. It also called for some specific thickness of leather on the templates, but since veg roo is stiff I used thinner stuff and it worked out fine. I normally make my own templates, but blew up my laser Enjoy, and let me know what you think.
  23. Thanks @Prusty! My stitching was pretty woeful before, but it's getting better Lots of patience, more practice, and a good set of pricking irons.
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