TonyRV2

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About TonyRV2

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 08/05/1955

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Branch, MI and Hawthorne, FL (Snowbird!)
  • Interests
    I'm a knife maker that got into leather to make sheaths. I'm finding I enjoy the leather side of things every bit as much as knife making.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Knife Sheaths, Handbags, Wallets, Guitar Straps, etc.
  • Interested in learning about
    Holsters
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    internet search

Recent Profile Visitors

2,649 profile views
  1. TonyRV2

    Help with pricing

    Dang...I didn't hear about the Elvis auction...could've made 15 or 20 bag liners with those.
  2. TonyRV2

    Help with pricing

    Well JL...if you cater to the 'ebay and walmart' crowd' then you are absolutely correct. Then you need to compete with the with the prices offered at ebay and walmart. In my opinion, that is also a losing proposition. Part of being in business is knowing your target audience. There's a reason companies like Hermes and Louis Vuitton can sell handbags for literally thousands of dollars apiece. They have created a reputation and a demand and they know how to and to whom they should market it. Of course, I'm not going to compete with either one of those guys either. But I'll say this, when the right customer sees that they can have a hand crafted quality 100% leather handbag for under 500 bucks (some charge more, but this is my 'formula' price) they are happy to get such a deal. Again, the key is to target the right customers, which for a small timer like myself can take many years to cultivate.
  3. TonyRV2

    Help with pricing

    I just keep raising my prices until somebody faints, and then lower them by 10%. Seriously though, many people use a simple formula of doubling the cost of materials and then add in your hourly rate. Your hourly rate is not just for your time, but for your shops time as well, to include your overhead. The average wage in the U.S. across all occupations is approximately $25/hour. So in my opinion, as an experienced craftsperson, there's no way you should be charging less than that. You might then tack on more to your hourly rate depending on your shops expenses...lighting, heating and cooling, insurance, rent, and so on. Just add up all your monthly shop bills, and divide by 200 (or whatever number of hours you spend in your shop per month). So maybe your shop costs are $2000...then based on 200 hours tack on another $10. Some might argue that your shop should also show a profit, just like materials, so you might even double that to $20/hour. Add in $5/hr for miscellaneous expenses and we're at $50/hour total...at a minimum. So that wallet that you spent 2 solid hours making using $10 in materials (cost) should sell for no less than $120.
  4. TonyRV2

    How To Run A 3 Phase 380V Motor On 220V

    Again, an A.C. motors r.p.m is determined by frequency, not voltage. I would not have written the above had I not been an automation engineer and taught electrical engineering for 32 years. If you witnessed that a motor had slowed down under the OP's posted conditions, then it was loaded. However, this would increase the motors slip which then increases the back EMF to the windings which increases the torque which brings the motor back up to speed. However, if the motor is overloaded it cannot recover. This may describe the situation you'd witnessed.
  5. TonyRV2

    How To Run A 3 Phase 380V Motor On 220V

    Nah....A.C. motors run at an rpm which is determined by the line frequency, not the voltage. More specifically at the line frequency minus the motor's "slip". Now it is possible that the slip is different between running at 380V or 220V, but this would be a minimal difference as slip is usually less than 10%.
  6. TonyRV2

    WHO got the stuff?

    Update 2!! 3 hours ago I thought I had the problem solved by clearing history, cache and cookies, but NOOOOOOooooooOOO. Just went back to the SLC site and if did the same damned thing...redirected me to the loggin page. Obviously this has something to do with the cookie that SLC is dropping and/or in conjuntion with the browser, which in my case is Chrome on a Windows 10 PC...Very frustrating.
  7. TonyRV2

    WHO got the stuff?

    Thanks for trying to chase this problem down. I'm using Chrome on a Windows 10 PC. Update: I deleted the computers cookies, history and cache and the problem seems fixed. I logged into SLC and after login was directed to my personal account page and from there I went to home page. I then logged out. I went back to the SLC site a short time later and landed on the home page and it stayed there without the troublesome redirection to login. So far so good.
  8. TonyRV2

    Measurement of thread tension

    As a former tech geek turned leathercrafter in retirement, this idea appeals to me.
  9. TonyRV2

    WHO got the stuff?

    See the preceding post. Perhaps he has something there, thanks. The problem still happens to me EVERY time I go to SLC...and ONLY SLC. Please fix this, its aggravating.
  10. TonyRV2

    Bad Bottom Stitching with Juki

    Chrome tanned leathers can be soft and sticky when it comes to feeding through the machine and it looks like in the lower right part of the wallet that the material shifted on you. Have you glued the pieces together prior to sewing? This should help. Also, a part of the problem is the marks left on the leather from the feed dog. Try loosening the presser foot tension a little. You need enough pressure to reliably feed this kind of material but not so much that it leaves a bad impression on the top or bottom. A smooth rather then toothed presser foot or even a roller presser foot would be a good idea here. I magnified the photo and it also looked like the knots were showing in a few spots. Since this is the bottom side you can fix that by slightly increasing the upper thread tension. ...Tony
  11. TonyRV2

    Sewing Machine Choices

    A few months ago I purchased a Cowboy CB3200 cylinder arm and a Juki DNU-1541 about 2 weeks after that. Each have there particular strengths in materials, thickness and thread sizes. The Cowboy is good for thread sizes from 138 up to 346 and up to 5/8" (40oz) of stacked leather. The Juki is good for thread sizes from 69 to 138 and up to 3/8" (24oz) of stacked leather. I thought these two machines complemented each other very well. I was fortunate, having just sold my boat, to be able to buy both machines at the same time (without an objection from the mrs. ) If you're purchasing one of the 3 machines that you've listed, I naturally am going to recommend the Juki. I looked at it this way...the others, which I'd also considered, are Juki clones and made in China. Juki's are made in Japan and viewed as having better quality control. Why by the clone especially for just a few hundred more you can have the original article. Well, I guess really the original article was the Singer 111W155, but we're not talking relics here. Though if a good deal came along I would probably purchase that Singer as well, on just the coolness factor alone. Anyways, with just the one machine you will be somewhat limited no matter which one you go with. No problem, because you'll have many, many projects that are well suited for that one machine. Later on down the line, like many that are serious about their craft, you'l add another, and then perhaps another, and then perhaps just one more.... ...Tony
  12. TonyRV2

    Overwhelmed by leather Sewing machines

    I just recently went through this same dilemma and asked much the same question, as have countless others apparently have, as to what the "best machine" for sewing leather would be. I was duly thrashed for my ignorance. Well, perhaps thrashed is too strong a word. There is no one machine that is going to do everything, which explains the variety of styles of machines...posts, cylinders, and flat beds basically. I'm certainly no expert when it comes to sewing machines, but I can relate what I've learned so far. Post and cylinder style machines are for thicker leathers, flat bed for thinner leather. All machines have limits as to the size of thread and the thickness of leather that they can handle. It behooves you to study thread sizes and the typical threads that are used for the projects that you do. That, and the thicknesses of the leather you use will give you a better insight as to which machine will best suit your immediate needs. More than a few people said that I should start off with a cylinder arm machine like a Cobra 4 or a Cowboy CB3200 or CB4500. These machines are well suited to the knife sheaths, belts and holsters that I make. Not so well suited though for my thinner projects like handbags and such. I did wind up purchasing a Cowboy CB3200 knowing it was limited on the thin stuff down to about 6oz of stacked leather with a comfortable minimum thread size of #138 thread. It will sew up to 5/8" of stacked leather. I then went ahead and also purchased a Juki 1541 flatbed machine for the thinner stuff. It's good for up to 3/8" material but more importantly, it will handle very thin materials as well and can use #69 up to #138 thread, so its a great complement to the other machine. Both machines have servo drives which is important in terms of being quiet and also for speed control. The Cowboy also has a speed reducer which makes stitching slowly, but still with a lot of torque, very easy. I also looked over the used market for months before just purchasing new machines. Cylinder arm machines are a rarity, and most flatbeds looked to me like they'd been run through the mill. I finally fell back on an old lesson I'd learned many times before...buy once, cry once.
  13. TonyRV2

    Sewing round hidden magnetic snaps

    Though I've never used a sew in magnetic closure, my first instinct would be to mark a circle around the closure where it is to be placed on the leather and then use a two prong pricking iron to mark the stitches around the circle, then hand sew the closure in place. Perhaps others will be along with more experience with this type of closure.