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CloudyCreek

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About CloudyCreek

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    Natural World. Leather. Brain Power.

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    Sewing Machine Repair/Restoration

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  1. I would love to get some LR points in #18 and #20 that would work with the 51W54. I don’t need a large quantity. Not sure if you have a minimum. Let me know!
  2. Thank you sir that helps a lot. Is there a LR point available?
  3. Thanks. Conflicting info is all I can find. I found somewhere that said it uses 16x231 which is the same as DBx1. Don’t know.
  4. Hey everyone. So I recently became an owner of a Singer 51W54 post bed. Problem is I’m having difficulty finding what needle system it uses and the appropriate leather point needles. No needles came with the machine. Any info would be great! Thanks
  5. Hey all. So I just purchased a new Juki 1508n and I’m trying to wind my first bobbin with it. But the problem is the bobbin doesn't rotate with the winder shaft. It just sits on the shaft as the shaft spins. Any ideas? The bobbins came with the machine. I’ve watched a few videos and can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong Thanks!
  6. Ah now I see. Not really the look I was going for but if you want to make one, go ahead and share!
  7. Hey Carson. Not entirely following how I’d sew the walls to the tray bottom. Could you elaborate?
  8. Hey all. I was asked to make a large (18 inch diameter) round leather tray for a coffee table. But I’m not certain how to form the walls. I’ve made rectangular trays from a single piece of leather, but not sure I can make a round tray from one piece without wet molding, which I’d like to avoid if possible. Not certain if I’ll make more so trying to avoid having to make molds. I’ve found some photos of large serving trays, but the walls look like they’re separate pieces. They can’t all be boxed stitched, right? Any thoughts? Here’s a photo of a simple tray I made with my keychain design. Thanks!
  9. I've considered thread size. And I won't stray too much as I move from all leather projects to canvas/leather projects as I'm sewing thick/dense canvas as well. It can never be too strong, right? And I've definitely pulled some hair out trying to work magic on bending and folding material on my flatbed. That's why I've been very critical of my designs so I can avoid that! BUT, having a cylinder bed will open up more design options for me. I wonder if it's tedious when sewing the bag's body on a cylinder bed with large pieces of material? Thanks for the input Floyd.
  10. Yes I can only imagine how I'll feel when I have an industrial machine! I decided to learn and do as much as I could on my Heavy Duty. A machine with REAL power will be sooooo nice. I'm still on the fence about flatbed or cylinder. I know all the advantages of each. But I've been getting around not having a cylinder bed by how I design items. Decisions, decision.
  11. Yea it's not an old heavy duty machine. As others have mentioned, it's their line called Heavy Duty, which is not that heavy duty, compared.
  12. Thanks for the company links! I'll definitely check out shops closer to home. Thanks for the input man. All things considered, I'm pretty sure I can get the machine down my stairs in two parts. Good news for me.
  13. First time starting a new topic on leatherworker. I searched the topics before I decided to post this as I didn't want to ask the same questions that people have before (forgive if I am). I've been working with leather for some years now and have been stitching everything by hand. I've also been using a Singer Heavy Duty to sew textiles (and some thin leather) for bags I've been designing. My question is - can anyone recommend a machine that I can sew leather with (looking at the Cobra Class 18) and that will work with sewing leather to canvas. My guess is I wouldn't want to use a sharpened leather needle while sewing leather to canvas as the sharp needle can cut the canvas? How thick of leather can the Class 18 sew? I'd like to sew 10 oz. plus and reserving hand sewing for knife sheaths and the like as I'd rather have my first machine be middle of the road. I realize one machine can't do everything so I'm thinking of starting with a flatbed and getting a cylinder bed should my needs/designs dictate. Also, my work space is in a basement. Is it an issue to take a fully assembled machine and stand down some stairs? I'm in Pennsylvania. I assume with the tension and presser foot adjustments, I can sew all leather projects and move to all canvas projects? Any insight is greatly appreacited!
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