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About yober

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Oregon coast
  • Interests
    Shooting, knives.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters, sheathes, dog harnesses, and misc.
  • Interested in learning about
    Mastering my 3200.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. I don’t really look to it for fleshy sides, but I’ll keep it around for that should I need it. I was hoping to combine burnishing and dying, but looks like dye and then clear tokonole it is. Thanks for your help. Egads, that’s just nasty.…
  2. Looks like I tossed my test piece, but the issue was if I burnished with the wooden burnisher while the tokonole was still moist, it spread black to parts off the edge and made it look like a sloppy application (which I guess it was). I wanted the smoothing and gloss, but it really acts like edge paint at this stage. Letting it dry doesn’t give me the advantage of rounding and smoothing.
  3. I have used clear Tokonole for a long time as a substitute for gum trag or saddle soap, applying in much the same manner with my finger and using a wooden burnisher while the Tokonole is still wet but absorbed into the edged/sanded leather edge. I get an awesome rounded glossy edge. I was thinking that the black and brown versions would apply in match the same way, but burnishing after it’s absorbed into the edge, yields a mess. Is this more of an inch paint, where I have to wait until it dries before burnishing with the stick, or is there a whole separate process for this? I have use it and cooked before but on holsters it doesn’t last. Searching the forum, doesn’t give any specific answers on colored Tokonole, only that it’s applied and then burnished, with no indication of how long to wait or what state the leather is in. Thanks in advance.
  4. Since it’s water soluble, are you applying the gel after you wet-mold, or have you wet-molded after working it in and giving it a Resolene too coat? I tool leather holsters and would like to antique before I wet mold but so far haven’t had the best luck. I hate applying after molding. Thanks.
  5. Thanks, I checked their website. Guess I might have to call ‘em.
  6. Long posts I have already. I’ll post piccies as soon as I get back from my trip today.
  7. If you look inside most line 24 studs or the studs supplied with Pull the Dot assemblies, the inside shelf where the hole is is approximately halfway up the total height. On low shelf varieties (something I learned about on this forum), this shelf is flush with the bottom and thus an easier reach for eyelets to get through and be expanded. Two thicknesses of leather with a steel reinforcement tab are too thick to let even an extra-length post rise through the shelf and leave anything to be expanded when the die strikes it (it just pulls even, not through and thus not securely). I have the longest posts available and can’t get them past, and I’ve relieved a hole on the inside where the stud goes (so it’s really more like one thickness and the steel thumb break tab). I was hoping somebody had found an outlet that simply sends them USPS, not UPS Ground like DOT does.
  8. … that won’t cost three times the price just for shipping. I’m trying to find low-shelf studs to work with my thumb breaks reinforced with steel (like most holster makers do). Went to the source: https://www.dotfasteners.com/durabletm-studs-2224.html but a bag of 100 costs a minimum of $20 to ship for an $8 item. Can’t seem to find any distributors for these particular items, so I was wondering if anyone uses these and where they source ‘em? Regular line 24 studs don’t work even with the longest eyelets from Dot or elsewhere, and I scoured the forum hoping otherwise. Thanks in advance.
  9. This is stunning work. Do you ever have a problem distorting any tooling when you bend the leather around? I’m assuming you do it semi-wet.
  10. yober

    P365 Curved

    What do you use to create the “curve”?
  11. Yes, Siri seems to misinterpret everything I say these days. It’s a milk can, more or less, and you can see it underneath in the picture. If you’re saying sew hook and loop, I do not have a sewing machine and would have to do it by hand. It’s actually not that uncomfortable; in fact, I wish I had one because my butt fit in it just right (this is for friend of mine).
  12. Hi, I am tooling a cover for the tractor saddle seat which currently sits on top of a milk crate (pictured). I am looking for a way to secure the leather in such away that it won’t slide in any direction. I thought it might work like a pan seat for a motorcycle but I’m wishing to avoid lacing or stitching a lower containment panel all the way around the perimeter. I’ve come up with a couple options, but I’m not really happy with any of them so far: 1. Crisscross a strap through the holes; 2. Rivet some lacing hooks on the backside and cinch it up like a set of hiking boots; 3. Punch some grommets on the backside and cinch it up similarly. I will be wet mounding my significant fanny into it, and there will be significant amount of extra leather around the entire perimeter for which to secure things in a way not seen by anybody. I’m interested in a solution that will maximize the amount of real estate necessary for tooling a Sheridan design into it. The above three designs have at least some intrusion into this. Am I just crazy for trying this? Anybody done it before? Thanks in advance, Jon
  13. Saw one on Reddit a couple hours ago.
  14. I'll take it, if it's still available. How would you like to be paid?
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