tmitch

Dikman, Neat, I am going to see if I can find one of my old tripods.

On the first point, my winder motor goes through a foot controller so I can vary the speed from a crawl, to anything and I always wind at a moderate speed. If I understand your second point, my cones are approximately 7" tall and the loop that draws the thread up off the top only 3.5" from the top of the cone, it is not enough? But it travels at least 20 more inches down to the loop hole at the tension assembly of the winder. I could set the cone on the table, but that would only gain me 13" above the top of the cone. I thought the thread exchange supplied "high quality thread" as that was recommended to me by numerous answers as to where I should obtain my thread.

Here is my set up for winding bobbins. It is just like the stock set up except that I moved the bobbin winder to the side and powered it with its own motor. The thread comes off the top of the cones and down to the winder's tension.

The bobbins were listed as JUKI LH-512 / LH-515 BOBBINS 100 EACH #B-9117-051-000, but I have the same problem with different bobbins. The twisting happens to the thread coming off the cone, before it even gets to the winder. That was why I even tried pulling the thread from the side, but it didn't help. It really doesn't have anything to do with the winder, I just included the information about the winder so I gave all the information. Notes I included the thread information at the beginning. The thread is Nylon - Size 138 - Beige #2 (Fil-Tec #111) - Monocord - Nominal 16 Oz Spool - 2950 Yards , this was a premium thread purchased from the thread exchange. I don't understand why I don't have this problem when sewing. I'll try to post some pictures when I wind some more bobbins but I have to wind a few before I realize that the thread is twisting and it makes such a mess with a lot of unusable thread.

Thanks Yetibelle, but it didn't help. That is exactly how I do it.

When winding bobbins the thread off the cone results in a tangled twisted mess, even if I force the cone to unwind from the side like a spool. I made a separate bobbin winder powered with a sewing machine motor, but it works just like the stock winder. The thread is Nylon - Size 138 - Beige #2 (Fil-Tec #111) - Monocord - Nominal 16 Oz Spool - 2950 Yards

No, I did find it at AAA Sew.com, but a strange glitch in there ordering system made me add another product, because the washer had no weight and the shipping was by UPS, it couldn't come up with a shipping charge????, so I added a can of gasket cement. Still a whole lot less than $53.

Whew! Nether Toledo Sewing Machines or Keysew had the part, and the Abel thread co. did have it for only $4.50, but with their $35 minimum and shipping it is costing me $53.02. But it seams like it is the only place I can get it.

I desperately need a Hook Driving Pinion Thrust Washer #224022 in a hurry

Great, at least I know what it looks like. Do you know where I can buy two Table Hinge Hooks?

My machine doesn't use pins. They are bolted on, and form wide hooks. I don't have any cut outs because I am install the machine on a bench in my Office, so I will have to router them out after I have the parts. I have searched on ebay for tables to try and find a picture of my kind on hinge with no luck.

I have not been able to find the female half of the hinges for a Singer 112w139. These are the part of the hinge that mounts on the table to allow the machine to be tilted back. Ebay has a few of the male half that mount to the machine itself, but not the female. The male part uses a curved tab that appears to mount in a slot, but it isn't even shown in the parts book, so I can't even find a picture. The machine is so heavy that it is extremely difficult to lift strait up for access to the underside for adjusting and oiling. I have searched for any source of these parts and have been unable to find any.

Mine only releases at the "second" lifting position.

OK, I started over, setting my bobbin tensions very light and trying to get them even. Then I backed off the upper thread tension and went back to threading like the manual directed (trying to thread them over the little posts was very difficult anyway). My stitches look much better and more even now. I think I am there now. The only problem left is getting the threads to release from the hooks at the end of a stitch (I have to rock the hand wheel back and forth sometimes), but that might be just the nature of the beast.

Still having trouble getting enough tension on the upper thread. Has anybody used the "threading a double needle walking foot sewing machine the right way" by Moose Trading in witch he threads the two tension disks by going around the little posts (not what my manual says). Here is what I am getting now on two layers of vinyl using the Moose Trading upper threading and I have the tension screws pretty tight.

Strangely enough, the large amount of slack below the thread controller seems to have gone away, so I locked down the controller setting. I made a video, but I can't seem to make it small enough to attach it, but it just shows everything working right. Thank god for this forum and for you, Uwe and Brmax.

Brmax, I live in a small Oklahoma town and we had sew machine repair shop a few years ago, but I guess he retired. Uwe, actually I have the threading right as far as your video shows, but I still have more slack even with the large movement of the thread controller. I will post a better picture below. The trick of holding tension of the upper threads seems to have solved the binding up the rats nest down below. Now, I can work on the tensions of the upper threads. Later today, I'll try to get my son to make a video of the slack left by the thread controller.

First of all there are no sewing machine mechanics in the area (I wish there were). I also realized that the hook gear set screws were not in the groove on the shaft, and have corrected that. Here are a couple pictures of the timing control: As I turn over the hand wheel to make a couple of stitches, I get about 2 turns and the machine locks up with a tangled mess. Here is a shot of the mess.

I'll try to do that (but I don't know how to attach a picture or video to a post), but something even more weird just happened. When double checking my timing, I found the right hand hook assembly was almost 180 degrees off. Thinking I had made a mistake, I corrected it and made sure the two hooks were in sync. I then tried a couple of stitches which resulted in a rats nest under the stitch and a tangle of threads caught down in the machine. I just got it untangled and unbelievably the right hook assembly is again 180 degrees off. How can that happen?

Thank you for the reply, but unfortunately or fortunately, I was doing it correctly. So my original problems still stand. I have moved the lower stop as far down as it will go, and turned the tension back and forth and as I said, too much tension and it won't reach high enough and too little and it won't return to the lower stop. I have felt the spring movement and it seems to move freely. I was unsure if the outer part of the spring belonged on the outside of the "disc" since I had taken all apart, but your excellent video clearly shows that I had reassembled it correctly. In trying to get this machine working correctly I had to readjust the stitch length to match the numbers, which somehow, screwed my original timing, so I had to re time it again and now I think I have it just a little early but again, I want to solve this loose thread controller problem. In all the videos I have watched of similar machine running, none of them seem to exhibit as much loose thread as I have. Maybe that is not my problem. I don't have enough strength to lift the machine straight up out of the hole in the table, as I don't yet have the female parts of the hinges so I have to keep calling my son every time I need to work on the underside of the machine. I can't believe this thing is so heavy. No wonder Singer called my old 306K a "featherweight".

I recently purchased a used Singer double needle 112W139. I have a manual for the machine and have timed it successfully, I believe, but have a few problems I can't seem to solve. First I can't get the thread controller to work properly. No matter how I adjust it, it leaves too much slack. I have moved the stop as low as it will go and turned the controller back and forth for tension. Too much and it will not let the spring move to the top and too little and it not return to the bottom, and at the best compromise it leaves so much slack that the thread sometimes actually come out of the lowest guide just above the needle. I have alternately thread it by the manual, and tried some of the "right way to thread a double needle machine" found on the internet. Nothing seems to help. I also have trouble with picking up the bobbin thread, but until I solve the slack in the upper thread, I don't want to tackle 2 problems at the same time.