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About edwelld

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  1. Problem solved- there was a timing issue now resolved by the supplier and the tension has been cranked up top and bottom :-)
  2. Hi All, hoping someone can help me with a problem I'm having with reverse stitching. I have very recently bought a Highlead GC2268 Cylinder Arm machine. I'm still finding my way with it, having never used a sewing machine before. I've managed to get some nice stitches in the normal forward direction, having played around balancing the thread tensions (thanks to all who have posted really helping info on this forum). However, I am having no joy at all when I try to reverse stitch to lock the stitches. I’m using bonded nylon 20s top and bottom. Black on the top and white on the bottom. On both pieces of leather, the long lines of stitching was done just in normal “forward” direction. On both pieces the tension is balanced and the stitching looks good. In middle of each piece, I put the leather in the machine, and immediately started with reverse stitch. (holding both threads for the first few stitches) As you can see from the photos, it is dropping stitches or in some cases not making any stitches at all. I’ve put pieces of paper under the stitch lines to make it easier to see the dropped stitches. With no thread in the machine at all, I put a piece of paper under the presser foot and hand cranked forward and reverse for 3 stitches and the reverse holes lined up exactly with the forward ones. I have referred the problem to the supplier of the machine, but being so "green" myself, I'd appreciate a view from the experts out there whether this is a likely problem with the machine or the user! Am I being naive to expect this to "just work"? hoping you can help David
  3. Thanks all for the helpful responses. Needle height was the issue with the "extra threads" - thanks very much. I was using size 140 needles, I've order some 160s and I'll try the bobbin tension test suggested by Kgg. Matt as you are UK based, I'm interested to know which thread you use and where you buy it from. very kind of you all to take the trouble to help me out kindest regards David
  4. Hi all, I'm a complete newbie to machine sewing, and I have exactly the same symptoms that RaptorBravo does. On the bottom side of the work the knots are just visible. I have a highland GC2268 which is rated for 20s (138?). I am using Somabond bonded nylon 20s in both the spool and bobbin. I have tried increasing the top tension, but can't get rid of the knots. In fact when the tension reaches a certain point, I get an "extra loop" in the bobbin - when I raise the foot and pull the work away from the machine it sticks as there are 3 threads coming from the bobbin. I cut the 3 threads and one is the thread coming straight from the bobbin which pulls freely, the other 2 are different ends of the same short thread - if that makes any sense. Not sure if this is a coincidence or is directly related to the increased top tension. I haven't as yet tried to adjust the bottom tension, as frankly I'm a little concerned about over tinkering without knowing what I'm doing! If I use 40s thread (69?) in the bobbin the problem goes away; however as most of my projects will have both top and bottom visible I'd like to have the same thread (20s) if possible, even accepting that the stitching wont be identical. Is it possible that certain makes of threads at the 20s thickness will just not behave nicely in the bobbin? The soma bond was advertised as top thread; It didn't occur to me that it might be literal. hoping that one of you experts can help. kind regards to all David
  5. Hi All, I came across the Leather Connection site only yesterday. It seems that Francis Burnett-Mills sadly died 2 years ago. I wonder if anyone is now selling these manuals, or are they now lost to us? hoping someone can help kind regards David
  6. Hi, I have just had exactly the same happen to a briefcase i made from Sedgwick bridle shoulder, did you get any explanation Skalpel? love the stitching !
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