Rockoboy
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Posts posted by Rockoboy
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17 hours ago, JLSleather said:That listing actually DOES say "burgundy", but maybe they post the wrong pic?
Quite often the difference between printers ink, thread colours and colour on a screen are 3 different things. Whilst they might be trying to show burgundy, your screen colours might be off a tad.
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15 hours ago, AntlerRiverLeather said:It is hand stitched right side out, heavy veg tan gusset,
Can you show how the gusset fits please. Is the vegtan leather gusset tanned elk-hide or something else?
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That is a really nice job as you have done it. If you shave off that 1.0mm+, it will possibly change/ruin the lines of the strap. Personally, I would consider remaking this from scratch and save this strap to give or sell it to somebody who can wear it as made.
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WOW! That is seriously nice! Is that stitched inside out, then turned right side out?
Are you able to supply details of the leather, braided strap, the carving, the button looks really nice (maybe handmade?), is your bag lined?
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19 minutes ago, CrazyC said:This thread looked stark white until I started working it
I always use an extra couple feet of thread, so the 1st couple of feet through the hole can get dirty as it scours out the hole, but the thread in the project (hopefully) stays clean.
I have seen somebody here on LW.net suggest running a thread through holes to clean out dye or gunk.
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I like it all, especially how the belt loop follows the curve of the handle of the knife.
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Very nice. I like the hand-carved frog.
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I use John James size 2 needles (not the larger 2/0) for a lot of my hand-stitching where I use 1.0mm Tiger thread or the Chinese variant.
When I am using 0.65mm Tiger thread, I try to use a smaller needle size, but the eye of the needle is quite often difficult to thread. Sometimes I need to use a smear of beeswax to sort out the end of the thread so I can thread the needle.
Sometimes I need to use pliers to pull the needle through, but it's usually only a few holes, then a few are OK, then pliers again for a few.
Ohh yeah ... I forgot to mention your belt. It's looking pretty good for a 1st project, despite your troubles with thread size, stitching chisels etc. Keep at it, you will get it happening, as you improve with each project.
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If the magnetic is for a closure, I would be trying to use Velcro.
If there is a different purpose for the magnet being there, any further ideas would depend on the purpose of the magnet.
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7 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said:They are about $5-6 bucks Canadian per tile
Depending on the size of the tile, (in Australia we have some that are 12"x12" and some the are 12"x24"), the could be cut into 2 or 4 pieces. Most projects only need 6"x10" maybe 8"x12" so the stamping is supported by the hard surface.
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If I read your post correctly, the cost of the granite would appear to be the least of your problems. Not only do you appear to have a line on good suppliers at good prices, but you do not appear to have investigated kitchen fit-out companies, who might supply for free rather than them paying to have it taken away. I have only ever broken one piece of 3/4" granite, and I was really "giving it" to a large stamp with a 2lb copper-faced hammer. Therefore, I think you should have no trouble with the less expensive granite. On the other hand ... the steel option as mentioned by @fredk is well worth considering. The rigidity of the tables might be a problem for optimal performance, but it should get you by IMHO.
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On 8/30/2019 at 11:40 PM, MarkCdub said:maybe its just me or how I use my chisels but I have a hard time with the J.J. needles going through the 5mm holes
Depending on the thickness and type of leather, sometimes I have to use pliers for a few threads, then it becomes 0K for a few, then pliers again. If I chisel my stitch holes then leave my project for a few hours, I find the holes close up a little.
On some projects, I have no trouble at all.
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7 hours ago, PappyJoe said:7. Practice.
Welcome.
Sounds like you are on the right track. Not many get rich and famous by turning up.
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8 hours ago, howie696 said:instead of a squeegie you can cut a piece of rubber
Thanx Howard, that will be a great help. I was not trying to steal your thunder with the squeegee idea. Just offering suggestions of what I had heard, that sounded like it might assist another person.
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Having a go at a few things is a great way to start. Cut some leather into usable shapes, maybe key fobs, drink coasters, luggage tags, book mark, dog collar, small non-stitch coin purse etc. After cutting a dozen or 20 projects, you will know something about cutting.
Maybe do some stamping if that's your preference. Then do some edges, after reading the excellent advice from @hidepounder which is very easy to read and follow. Each time you do something for a while, you will learn how leather behaves, things to do or not do next time.
I never throw out any pieces that don't come out right. Even a rough cut dodgy piece can be good to do some test stamping or try out a dye colour.
Above all else, have fun with it.
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The John James size 2 needles will be fine going through 4.0mm stitching chisel holes. I do it all the time.
The only disclaimer here, I do not cross my needles in the hole, I pass one needle through the project, then pull the thread out of the way (so I don't spear the thread) then pass the 2nd needle through, knot the thread and pull both sides tight.
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On 8/26/2019 at 10:07 AM, fredk said:window squeegies are harder to get than rocking horse poo in my area
That's funny. There were 2 for 50 cents each on the "discontinued and throw out shelf" at the supermarket last week, and as many as I want at the big box hardware store a few weeks back. I guess there might be different requirements for each different area or country.
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I am guessing it depends entirely on the area you have, how much moisture, cold or heat will get in there. What some people call a garage, you might call a rough leanto, or a fully insulated waterproof workshop. Pics might help.
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Its difficult or impossible to burnish some soft leather, especially if its thin. Sometimes it can be better if you burnish after assembly is completed, or sometimes I have used Edgekote instead of burnishing.
Have you tried holding your leather flat on a hard surface like a piece of timber, instead of in your hand? (that's how I burnish anyway).
What are you using to assist with burnishing, gum tragacanth? water? glycerine saddle soap? beeswax, lanolin, or some mix?
Are you using vegtan leather, without a lot of oil included in the leather? I have some leather that looks like it would burnish nicely, but I cannot get it to burnish. I was told it's because it's so full of oil.
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On 8/23/2019 at 10:58 PM, battlemunky said:those facets created from the grinder may contribute to miss striking when using
What about covering the face of the mallet with a disc of fairly hard stiff leather to fix any problems with an uneven surface?
Somebody gave me a wooden mallet recently, that had a piece of leather stuck to the face. Granted, it was worn out and I had to replace the leather, but it works just fine.
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I have used 1.0mm Tiger thread at 4.0mm stitch spacing. It does look a little chunky. You might like that, or 0.8mm is IMHO strong enough for your project.
I have used 0.6mm at 3.0mm spacing, but the chisels I have leave a larger hole than 0.6mm thread needs, so I am undecided on that set-up.
Just one question, does this sheath have enough retention to stop the knife falling out?
I have no idea about your antique question. Please post pics of your finished projects, I am interested to know how things turn out.
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Definitely looks like mould to me. I think it's lucky that the surface of the leather is finished, so the mould might come off easier.
I had some unfinished leather recently, with a mould coating. I managed to carefully remove that coating with methylated spirits (denatured alcohol). No hard rubbing, just wiping in small straight lines from the middle to the edge, using a clean rag that I frequently turned to a clean piece.
This appears to have also killed the spores, as the mould has not come back and now I have finished the leather.
Best of luck, please let us know what you end up doing and your results.
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5 hours ago, fredk said:The wooly is good for getting the paste on ok but I found it could also remove too much from the wee nooks and crannies so wiping it over with a cloth in hand I can be more discerning on how much and where to remove
I was using some antique recently, somebody with a wealth more experience than I, said they used to use a window squeegee to remove the excess antique. No way that thing will get down into the carving to remove any antique, it just skims over the top. I used a wadded up paper towel lightly across the top of the carving.
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I am guessing colour-matched from any good paint retailer. Can you take a small component in, so they know the colour?
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I guess buying cable cutters from the Big B is not really an option for a one-off, or very rare job, but that is what you needed.