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About leatherjunkie

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    Canby, Oregon

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  1. when i apply black dye i usually dip dye the piece. then i use a blue paper towel(blue paper towel seams to leave no lint and holds up better) and buff the excess black dye off while still damp from the dip dye. i do this to buff out and spread the dye to an area that might of not taken dye right away. only do this for a few mins. then just let dry for a day or two, then just add some bee natural saddle oil. then apply finish and no rub off of black
  2. Pounder, if at all possible do not wait to get Chuck's video. Its one of the best produced videos and most informative one i have seen on holster making. i still watch it to refresh and spark my mind into action.
  3. After taking Paul Zalesak's class on sharpening, I am able to sharpen my swivel knife now without fear of ruining the blade.
  4. geez, KT.... i thought you finally gone and done a plain jane rig..... theres nothing plain about this rig,... beautiful as always...
  5. looks good. you can use a piece of antler to burnish the edges also. not sure about this but it was suggested to me not to use suede as a lining for holsters as it can trap dirt and debris thus scratching the handgun as you use the holster. i havent used suede to line anything yet as i always just use veg tan leather cause i usually dip dye my stuff.
  6. everyone gave you some great information. but wondering why no one mentioned evoo(extra virgin olive oil) as a finish oil? also there are natural dyes you can make for dying your projects. for example you can use used coffee grounds, walnut hulls and rusty water for old time dyes. the vinger black dye may not work for you due to the smell of vinger. i also have great results using leather balm with atom wax as a finish. you can get it from tandy. Wyosheen is the new name of Neat Lac since tandy does not carry it any more. it has a very harsh smell but it works real good as a finish. the following link is to cas city that has a lot of information on making old time dyes in your house: http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,11991.0.html
  7. atom wax is a finish not a hardener. when you go to wet form the holster do it without any finish on it. this way the water will leave the leather uniformley. as the leather dries from wet forming it will naturally harden to some degree. if you want it to be rock hard then there is more to do. i dont get my holsters to be rock hard because i dont think they need to be that hard.
  8. was a great show for me. had to leave for home today due to work sat morning. Chan as always a great teacher for the classes i was able to attend. sheridan pattern layout and lacing.
  9. I am the other way. I have the book but could not figure out how to lace looking at the pictures. the video worked for me. One thing that does help when doing 2 tone lace is to use lace that is have one lace shorter than the other about 8 to 10 inches. this way when you need to splice in more lace you are not having to splice in both at same time and cause a big bump in the project.
  10. i have the barry king beader blade in my al stolhman swivel knife(tandy leather brand). works great and stays sharp as long as you strop it first.
  11. go to tandy leather website and pay the 10 bucks to view all videos. they have a video on how to 2 tone lace double loop. the only hard part is remembering how to finish it. its real easy once you see it done.
  12. yep and it has strange writting on it toooo. nice job on the sleeve...
  13. aw beat me to it. was just gonna say belt sander..... use a can or something that is a circle to the size you want lay on leather or paper for tracing then cut then use belt sander to finalize shape
  14. dip dye will dye the flesh side as well. i don't like projects that are dyed/stained on grain side only. to me this is not finished(unless i want the color contrast). using leather with a fairley smooth flesh side will help the finish process 100%. i switched to herman oak with a fairley smooth flesh side. after dying the holster i saw that the flesh side smoothed out more and when installing firearm(double check empty!!!!!!!!!!!!)during wet forming helps to smooth the flesh side up too. you did check to insure firearm is empty right????? light coats of oil and a final finish of any finish will protect the leather. Bobby Rose aka Treed(username on here) uses gum trag heavy on flesh side and slicks the heck out of it with a slicker/bone folder to finish stubborn flesh sides. Send Bobby a message or email he should get back to you. Sometimes I go a little overboard when it comes to making sure people check the firearm for empty. its not a dig, just getting my point out that you need to insure the firearm is empty and ammo is not any where close to where you are working on the holster and gun.
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