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bentley

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Posts posted by bentley


  1. If I am using a pattern that I have purchased or found in a magazine/book they usually specify their recommended thickness. If you are creating your own patterns for a holster or belt and liked what you have used in kits from the past just use same thickness raw material or adjust if you want something stiffer or softer. Sometimes it just happens to be what I have on hand and maybe skive or split it down to what I think feels right. That is how I do it but maybe someone out there has a chart they use for differant types of projects. If it is an original piece it is your choice what works best and that adds to the originality, another leather craftsman may look at it and say "I would have done that differantly" but I bet someone who has never done leather work would not even think about the differance between an ounce or two in thickness.


  2. I think with rivets it also depends on what type. For everyday leather work the rapid rivets while pretty strong dont compare to the copper rivets that you can get which take more time to set but are far stronger (as far as the rivet is concerned).

    Or brass rivet and bur for the McClellan saddle.


  3. I believe strength also depends on how something is stitched, while doing all the straps on my McClellan saddle the stitching is always done parrallel to the edge of the strap on both sides so you don't punch a bunch of holes across (perpendicular) the strap which may create a weak area. Most straps also had a single rivet, guess they weren't taking any chances in the late 1800's.


  4. I made a 4'x8' box from plywood and 2x6 frame, added a hinged masonite cover and hang it from the garage ceiling at an angle with chains so I can open the cover. Works great for me, keeps the dust and light out, the leather lays flat inside so no problem a curl in the hide.


  5. Thanks for the info! I dont think I have a Tandy store nearby, will check though. Im so excited, I was dreaming about it in my sleep LOL

    Not sure where your located but I self taught myself in the beginning with a Tandy beginners kit doing coasters and key fobs. That was so many years ago before the internet was invented, now you have so many learning aids and examples on this site to help you. If you truly want to learn this it really is not that difficult, of course very few will ever be as good as say Peter Main or Bob Park but the basics are pretty easy to do and very rewarding.

    http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Starter-Sets/55510-00.aspx?feature=Product_2

    http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Books-Patterns/61944-00.aspx?feature=Product_31

    Mark


  6. Find a Tandy store and take a beginners class, I think they are free and every manager I have ever met is very friendly and helpful. Then you will understand what basic tools you need to start. You don't need a machine to sew, just a few simple tools, thread needles and patience, oh and some tape around your pinky fingers, you will realize that soon enough, they have books at Tandy that explain step by step how to sew. Other than that you just need to practice a lot.

    Have fun, good luck!

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