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About Hasbeencowboy

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  • Location
    Florida via Tennessee via Washington state

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  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    stumbling around the internett

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  1. Thanks Oleskiver but I don't need to buy a spool of lace, make one leash and have the rest of the spool gathering dust............LOL. I see you are in Cookeville. I lived in Jamestown for a while
  2. My grand daughter wanted a HOT pink dog collar which I made for her. Now she wants a HOT pink leash. I can braid her a leash and I can dye the lace pink. My question is: In braiding kangaroo do you use anything on the lace before braiding? I got a sample of natural kangaroo lace and it took the dye very well but do you put saddle soap or any kind of conditioner before braiding. Thank you kindly in advance for information that may be forthcoming
  3. I just (about 3 months ago) bought a blade for my Landis 30 from Landis in Canada. They have blades but that is all. I forget what it cost me but whatever it was, it was worth it to me at the time.
  4. There is a guy on utube demonstrating Buckstitching that is also selling just what you are looking for, Rhale
  5. LatigoAmigo............Will this cutter let you start in the middle of a strap and quit before the end of the strap?
  6. In reply to your question Dwight. I don't know how long the Wade tree has been around but around the turn of the 20th century a lot of the saddle were slick fork or "A" fork and riders tied their coats or bedrolls on to give them some swells. With Wade trees, after the saddle is built it seems like most people add bucking rolls to them which to me would defeat the slick fork but saves tying your coat on for swells I guess. I am for sure no expert but just information I picked up over my 82 years from old cowboys
  7. I have to agree with Todd about Texas Custom Dies. I have several dies from them and they have always treated me good and delivered when they said they would.
  8. I use red board but just because I had a piece. I brought the arm on my arbor press down until my punch just made contact with the red board. Then I marked the ram on my press, drilled and tapped the ram and screwed in a 1/4" bolt. When I pull my handle down it only cuts to the board not into it. I also made the same sort of set up on my hydraulic press. You might give it a try if you are so inclined
  9. I locked up my arm once and it was caused by not making a full stroke (up and back). I called Tippmann and as I recall they had me remove the cover and then you could get the cam to release. That was about 3 years ago and I won't guarantee that will work but with the cover removed you should be able to see why and where it is binding up.............Good luck
  10. What i did with my 12 x 16 shed was to hinge a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood that will fold up against a wall when not in use with shelving below so I can have total access to the shelves when not cutting. But also I would have made it 16 x 20 or bigger......LOL. No matter how big your shop is you'll always wish it was bigger or at least I do
  11. I talked to Leatherwranglers yesterday and they do have some blades for the Landis 30 already made up. Almost need to take out a 2nd mortgage to buy one though..........lol Price really wasn't all that bad
  12. Yes it was Pilgrims............Thank you kindly. I'll try Paul Zalesak.
  13. There used to be a place in New England somewhere that had or could get parts for a Landis 30. Does any one happen to have that name and phone number? Specifically I am looking for a blade or the dimensions so I can have one made. Mine has been ground so many times that I can't get it up to the rolls. Thank you kindly.
  14. Tandy told me that those tips will fit their mini punch, so they are M8-1.0 I know this because I am revamping a Harbor Freight arbor press into a press for punching holes, etc
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