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About Pintodeluxe

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  • Location
    Washington State
  • Interests
    Woodworking, leather upholstery

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    craftsman furniture upholstery

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  1. I would pay more for a rb-1 or rb-2 but generally I'd take any of them over an rb-5. Give me old Japanese iron please. Expect to pay 1K for a nice machine with variable speed servo and complete table setup. Much less in some markets, and a little more in other markets. Condition is everything, and indicates the "mileage" on the machine.
  2. You might try Nickosew. I've bought used / obsolete Pfaff parts from his outfit before. No complaints.
  3. On Pfaff I think they are alignment dots, so the gears go back together the same way. Sometimes gears are not perfectly concentric with the hole in the middle. Once they wear in, everything is smooth. But, if you put it back together in a different orientation, all bets are off.
  4. There's nothing about winding a bobbin that should throw it out of wack. Just make sure you raise the presser foot as you wind the bobbin. If thread is getting caught underneath by the bobbin, it's likely that your timing and / or needle bar height are off slightly. It's pretty easy to knock the needle bar sewing over a thick seam. If the needle bar screw isn't really snug, it can move upward. So start by confirming your timing and needle bar height. Also, a drop of oil down by the bobbin case works wonders on my 563.
  5. I agree the type of needle makes a difference how the stitches look. Also make sure the needle is inserted correctly. The eye of the needle should be oriented true left-to-right (not diagonally). Good luck with it!
  6. I didn't mean to say that a Juki LU-563 is better, but I just prefer it. The reasons are primarily the huge U style bobbin on the 563. Plus I've always preferred a top loading bobbin machine. I started on a Consew 226 and got used to that style. Changing bobbins on side loading machines is awkward for me, but ultimately you get used to whatever machine you use. As far as speed reducers, get a box style reducer if you can. The standard style reducers often prevent you from tipping the machine back for maintenance / oiling. The box style reducers mount where your motor normally sits, then the motor attaches below the reducer. Good luck with whatever you decide!
  7. It depends what you need it to do. Comparable to a 206RB-5, maybe a little better due to country of origin and manufacturing standards. I like them okay. I wouldn't trade my Juki 563 for it, but they sew fine. Capacity = 3/8" total leather thickness. Side loading big M style bobbin. True triple feed walking foot. Add a box style speed reducer and a servo, and it could be a sweet runner.
  8. These will fit... currently listed on eBay for $2.78 each. Get the 45mm one (1.77") 38" belt. 39" belt may work, but 38" belt for sure.
  9. The maximum speed dial will have a point where it won't sew. They're all like that. Just turn it up enough to have some power, but not so high that it's too fast. I agree with Wiz, a 45mm motor pulley helps some. They're $2 on eBay. You'll need a 38" or 39" belt.
  10. Make sure to have a little material in the machine when you make the adjustment. When you loosen the two screws, confirm that the feet come down to the material before you tighten the screws. Sometimes they will stick slightly and the feet will still be off. Push the feet down with your finger when the screws are loose.
  11. Study Uwe's video a little more. You need to position the needle so it is just touching the material. At that exact position, loosen the two screws next to the wingnut. The feet will automatically go back to the correct timing. Tighten the two screws again, and you should be good.
  12. About a teaspoon of grease on the friction plate. It just makes it slip a little smoother, but didn't cause unwanted slipping. I've never tried grease on the brake.
  13. I tried this mod, but felt like it was a waste of time. For me, I settled on a servo and a box style speed reducer. I probably could have got away with just a servo. The only thing I've found that truly makes a clutch motor easier to control is to add grease to the friction plate. Especially if it was previously dried out, greasing the cork friction plate helps you slip the clutch. Is your clutch mounted to a reducer? Or some other reason it sits so low?
  14. I've heard people say it can have an effect on loop size at the hook/needle intersection. I've never confirmed that info. I always set mine in the center of the slot, and have never had a problem that couldn't be sorted with other adjustments. Someone here will know the answer.
  15. Some good advice has been posted here. I would also suggest switching to a thread / needle combination that doesn't max out your machine. For testing purposes, switch to a 92 weight thread and a #20 needle. Then go through the hook timing and spacing procedures. See if you can get it sewing well with lighter thread. You can step up the thread size later, once you have it tuned. I'd also be interested in the condition of the upper tension mechanism. If you loosen the upper tension a little, does the upper thread pull freely? Also, please post some pictures of your thread path including the thread stand. Best of luck.
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