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About Pintodeluxe

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    Washington State
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    Woodworking, leather upholstery

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    craftsman furniture upholstery

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  1. Pull the bobbin case out and check for loose threads. Once you get it sorted, remember to hold your threads back when you start to sew!
  2. First off, try and get in the habit of threading the three-hole guide (right before the tension assembly) a little differently than what you show in the very 1st picture. Thread the first hole from top to bottom. Then either barber pole the other holes from top to bottom, or thread it up-and-down like you've done. But if you start the first hole top to bottom, it will get the last guide threaded top to bottom as well, which may get the thread down in the tension discs a little better. Second, the bobbin tension will always feel way lighter than the upper tension. That part is normal. It's confusing because people are always using the term balanced tension. The tensions do need to result in a balanced stitch (balanced in the middle of your material thickness). But, this does not mean that pulling on the bobbin thread and pulling on the needle thread will ever feel the same. They will not. Third, you should never have to crank the bobbin tension screw all the way down. In fact, doing so may give you zero bobbin tension. Back the screw out, and tighten it little by little until you have light, even bobbin tension. Then go back and adjust upper tension until you see a balanced stitch in the material. Inspecting the upper tension discs may reveal grooves worn into the metal. Sometimes you can buff them out with emery cloth, but sometimes you have to replace the tension assembly. As you do some more test runs, sew two pieces of thin leather together. Take more pictures and label the sides top and bottom.
  3. I agree with Bob, that is a good place to start. If the thread isn't staying in the needle bar thread guide, then you've already found the problem. That will 100% cause thread fraying because the needle just stabs its own thread. Other things to check... 1. Check spring position. Check spring needs to control the upper thread until the eye of the needle reaches the material. 2. Check spring tension. Check spring needs adequate tension to perform #1 above. 3. Needle bar height. Hook needs to intersect needle about 1/16" above the eye. If it crosses too close to the eye of the needle, it will split the thread and cause fraying. 4. I'm assuming you're using about a #18 needle for the bonded 69 weight thread? Best of luck with it.
  4. I wanted to mount a cording roll holder under the table of my upholstery machine. Most of the pro setups use a long dowel to hold the piping roll, but my box style speed reducer was in the way. My wife came up with a brilliantly simple mount made from 1/2" threaded iron pipe. It simply screws to the table with a pipe flange, allowing you to mount it anywhere you like. Two 8" lengths of pipe, a 90 degree elbow, and a cap complete the setup. The cap keeps the roll from sliding off when sewing piping strips. I left enough room to slide a roll off and on without needing to twist the pipe. I tend to overcomplicate mechanical things, but my wife kept it wonderfully simple. It works great. Of course I had to paint the pipe hammered green to match my Juki!
  5. I agree with, and have followed Wizcrafts advice, to great success. I went with the simple dial type servo. It's sold under half a dozen trade names like eagle, family, new tech etc. Then I changed the motor pulley from 70mm to 45mm. That helped to slow it down, but I didn't have much power. Especially if the speed was set really low. So I added a box style speed reducer. That got me where I wanted to be. Nice and slow, and easy to control. Plus gobs of punching power. So this brings us to your situation... since you already have a nice servo, just add a box style speed reducer. They mount to the table using the existing holes. Really easy to do. Then, as Wiz pointed out, make sure to program your motor for slow take-off. Most motor manuals are available online. That's what I would do... keep your servo for now, and get a box style reducer. Worst case scenario, you have to swap out the servo down the road.
  6. If eBay doesn't work out, try Southstarsupply.com I recently ordered 206rb parts from them, and the correct parts came at a fairly reasonable price. It took a few weeks for them to gather all the parts I needed, and send in one shipment. Good luck with it.
  7. Might as well get foot sets that match what you already have. You won't want to make machine adjustments every time you change feet. How do the new and old sets compare in length?
  8. Your pulley sizes look good to me. Maybe the lack of surgical control is just because it's a clutch motor. I've sure enjoyed my box style speed reducer. I started with a conventional reducer, and couldn't tip the head back to oil underneath (had to get a wrench out). Now with the box style reducer, I forget it's down there. Works great. This week I'm making an under-table hook to hold a roll of cording. Came home from the hardware store with a bunch of iron pipe fittings. It's fun to mod your tools just the way you need them.
  9. Nice speed reducer. That one looks about as good as my commercial box-style reducer. Well done.
  10. It's certainly not a 206rb. It has a top loading small G bobbin, and is a Consew 225 variant. Let's call it a "225 R-1" although I'm not sure Consew made such a thing. Most 225 models came with a narrower handwheel, but many of the later models had wide handwheels like this. It has 90% of what a good upholstery class machine needs to be. But that last 10% (no reverse) is a killer. For me, it would be enough to keep looking. Find a Consew 226, 206rb-1, Juki LU-562, Lu-563 and I think you'd be better off. My first machine was a Consew 226 and I had no complaints. I later upgraded to a big bobbin machine, but other than that the 226 was great.
  11. You've chosen a great model. The Juki heads are notably heavier than comparable upholstery weight machines. I feel this translates to improved build quality. Oil it, and test it out. Time it and give it a tune. Surface rust / light corrosion on working parts can be buffed off with a scotch brite pad. Clean lint away with a small brush. If the reverse spring is weak, it could be a broken spring. Or it may just need some oil on the pivot points. Download a free manual, and get to know the oil points. The machine will run with an M style prewound bobbin, but I wouldn't recommend it. You are correct the proper bobbin for this machine is an ultra big U style. I've sewed three leather rocking chair seats before changing bobbins. It's a great feature to have such a large bobbin. Looks clean as a whistle underneath. Remove the bobbin case and check for loose thread. You'll need a tiny flat screwdriver to loosen three screws on the retainer gib that holds it in place. Two key oil points that often get overlooked... Around the bobbin case and at the base of the take up lever. Some Juki LU-563 models came with an oil hole on the upper shaft bearing, and some came with sealed bearings there. Look for an oil hole between the top cover and the handwheel. Keep us posted on your progress!
  12. I've had a number of older machines with leather belts, and the tick-tick-tick of the hog ring hitting metal drove me crazy. I tossed them in the bin immediately. But you're right, the leather would be useful to size a new belt. I use extra-long v belts for that same purpose. By the way, I'd love to see pictures of your homemade speed reducer.
  13. Why on earth are you using a leather belt on a Consew 226? I only see leather belts on the old machines that take a round profile belt. Just get a 3/8" V-belt and live a happy life. No need to invite the misery of a leather belt into your world. Good luck getting the machine set up.
  14. Welcome to the world of Pfaffs! Most Pfaffs I've used have almost double the foot pressure (at the lowest setting) compared to other brands. Short of drastic measures like replacing leaf springs and/or cutting coil springs shorter, I haven't come up with a solution.
  15. If the spring that holds the finger in place is broken, you might have to push it back in place manually. Do this from underneath the machine.
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