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About Pintodeluxe

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  • Location
    Washington State
  • Interests
    Woodworking, leather upholstery

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    craftsman furniture upholstery

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  1. I would adjust the topside mechanism first. Try adjusting the stops on the right side of the machine to set reverse lever travel. Knocking the pin out would be a last resort. Definitely don't use brute force with a hammer. That's just a game to see which part breaks first, and nobody wins that game.
  2. When getting an upholstery class machine set up and running, use 92 weight thread and a #20 needle. Chisel point / leather needles will result in a cleaner exit hole, but round point are fine for initial testing. Realize that 138 thread is the limit for this machine. To sew 138 with leather, you'll need a #23 needle. Please post pictures of your thread path from the thread stand all the way to the needle. Please switch to 92 weight thread and a #20 needle for testing. Adjust tension for that setup and report back.
  3. Did the sewing mechanic get it sewing right? Does it sew well with 92 weight thread too and bottom? Is that white thread the same stuff you were having trouble with? Sometimes when troubleshooting a machine problem, the best thing I have done is ditch problem thread. Sun Guard thread never worked for me at all, for instance. I tossed it in the trash and my problem went away.
  4. I like 190 system needles better anyway. Since your H4 was designed to use these longer needles, you definitely made the right decision. Someone probably ran out of long needles, and adjusted the needle bar to use the needles they had in stock. I switched my Juki 563 to accept 190 needles, and I like the setup a lot better. It sews through thicker material without any interference between the feet and needle bar.
  5. I like a size 19 or 20 with 92 weight thread. Increase upper tension or investigate if your tension assembly is worn out. I've had tension discs on older machines that literally had grooves worn in them. To the point that no adjusting would produce adequate upper tension. If that's the case, replace the upper tension assembly. Remove the bobbin case. There should be two tiny screws and a semicircular retainer. Check for work or bent tension tab. Replace bobbin case as needed. If everything looks good on the bobbin case, try decreasing bobbin tension.
  6. Try putting something in the machine that you'd actually sew and play around a little more. Maybe two layers of that leather. Increase upper tension for sure, but you may have to adjust the bobbin tension as well. Also a #23 needle may help you sew 138 thread in leather. Best of luck with it.
  7. I had a Consew 227 that looked similar. It had incredibly high lift and would sew through anything. I used it to repair bags on my tractor bagger with no trouble (heavy nylon material plus thick plastic). Ultimately, the lack of reverse was the big limiting factor. I'd get another one if it had reverse.
  8. I use woodworking tools quite often for upholstery work. Yesterday I skived piping strips with an oscillating belt sander, and cut foam with a band saw. Your tip is a good one, and another great example of WW tools used for leather. Your project looks very nice by the way.
  9. I've had all variants mentioned and here is my experience with it. A 550 watt Family / Tech sew style servo does pretty well if you swap the motor pulley. They often come with a 75mm pulley, and you can easily swap them for a 45mm pulley from eBay. Not quite stitch by stitch, but close. To that setup I've added a box style speed reducer which allows you to crawl stitch by stitch. Or you can sew at normal speeds. The benefit of the speed reducer is it allows you to crank up the power on the servo motor. Plus it acts as a torque multiplier. The downside of a speed reducer is the extra mechanical drag if you do handwheel occasionally. Even with the pedal slightly depressed (to release the cork brake) you'll feel more passive resistance to rotating the hand wheel. As far as the needle positioner, you need a servo with a digital display panel to run a positioner. I dislike those motors and they're a pain to set, compared to a simple dial. I like a needle positioner for high speed non-walking foot machines. But I find no use for them with leather. Like others here, I recommend starting with a Family / Tech Sew style servo with a single mechanical dial to adjust speed. Add a speed reducer later if needed. You'll likely be happy without one. Especially if you pop for a small pulley. Last time I looked they were about $2. Best of luck with it.
  10. Wow, that's surprising. My 226 didn't even like 138 thread too well.
  11. Yes, they both have slotted wing nuts to adjust stepping height. The Juki is a top loader, and the Seiko is a side loader. I'm clumsy with my left hand under the table, so I prefer a top loader for my main machine. You can get used to using either.
  12. Uwe, That's a thing of beauty. I had no idea a 225 could sew 207 thread. What modifications did you make? Thanks
  13. Yes the discs under the white knob. If they are old and have grooves worn in them, the upper tension will be erratic. This can cause intermittent loops on the under side of the fabric.
  14. I've had both models, and can say they're both good machines. I prefer the huge U style top loading bobbin on the Juki 563. The stated capacity is about 3/8" of leather stock. Of course my Juki is far from stock. I switched it to longer 190 system needles and added a box style speed reducer and servo. I think it would see through plywood now. I wouldn't use either machine with any thread heavier than 138. Even that may take modifications to sew consistently well. I almost always use 92 thread and those upholstery class machines are happy all day.
  15. Timing slightly off and worn tension discs are likely culprits.
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