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Sledzep01

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Everything posted by Sledzep01

  1. If there are No machines then no bottlenecks and truly hand made. But I agree with you it would limit the operation. if you had 2 or more people with the same skills there why would they have to work for the other guy... unless you can find craftsmen that want to stitch but not market... Sled
  2. To me Handmade will never be the same for everyone. How about if only 1 person does all steps.Thats handmade to me. Clicker? sewing machine? no matter all the skill for whatever "Tool" was used all came from one person. Let them sign it or something would make it even better even if 50 people are doing it at the same time. Machine stitched is never hand stitched, but can still be handmade. I think for leather goods, the hand stitched is what matters most, not the cutting of the leather. people know what hands and sewing machines are even if they do not know their worth. how many even know what a clicker press is? Sled
  3. Also I did have to file down 1 of the set screws in the collars, only 1 goes into the keyway, so the other is a little tall. Sled
  4. Exactly, except that the collars are touching each other. Anyone with a 241 can be running the 6 inch pulley in a week. Is there a list of machines where this shaft would be the same size? It would work for them too. I mean beyond the -11, -12. -13.
  5. there are 2 sleeves,sheaves,collars. click the first link. you need 2 of those. Sled
  6. You need 2 of these. https://www.ruland.com/MSC-15-F.html And 1 of these https://www.zoro.com/tb-woods-standard-v-belt-pulley-595-od-ak611/i/G6637970/ Goes on like magic, no modification at all. EWell I did have to move the auto bobbin filler
  7. there is absolutely NO SMELL!! It is permanent fast, this is for true permanent glueing. if you just want to hold something till it is stitched use this one. http://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/aquilim-sg/ Both are fantastic at what they do. I am new to this but cannot believe I will ever use a different product.
  8. http://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/aquilim-315/ Sled
  9. so 1 set of calipers later it is between 9/16 and 5/8 like 9.5/16 Thanks Singer!! Sled
  10. I do not have calipers, and the parts manual does not list dimensions... I need the exact size of the OD of the shaft at the hand pulley end. I thought it was 9/16 so I looked for a pulley that was larger that had an ID or Bore of 9/16 but could not find a large pulley. So... I looked for a collar with a 9/16 ID/Bore and an OD of 1 inch to match the pulley I found them. Well I found it but it does not fit the machine shaft... SO... I went up to 5/8 and 1 inch. The 5/8 is large on the shaft and the chinese 1 inch does not fit the pulley. AAAAAAAGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!! So if anyone knows exactly the size or can pull their pulley and check I would be so thankful! Maybe it is 9/16 and my first collars (Ruland) were made wrong. I can tell unless I go buy calipers just for this. thnx Sled
  11. Plus it works great for drying out points on old cars. Been saved by it many times. PS the chart was great!! Sled
  12. Wd40 is like Duct Tape in a spray can. That might work. So many belie that is w lubricant and are wrong.
  13. yeah, any bottled air will do that. Not sure how moist it might be though, your freezer will be dry for sure... Let us know how it goes
  14. Get some of the heaviest copper wire cast offs you can find, strip them and make your own rings then attach normally with Tight Copper rivets to match. Sled
  15. Would a broken Needle Bar Thread Guard do this?? I just realized there was supposed to be some sort of guie there, not a jagged broken piece of wire.... Ordered from Singer parts Sled
  16. There is a large screw on the end of the shaft where the pulley is. If left off will oil shoot out of there?? I believe I have found a way to put a larger pulley there but need to know if I have to keep the screw. I think I can, but need to know so i do not test without it and make a mess. I still cannot stitch 4 inches without breaking thread but I believe I can slow it down further. Sled
  17. I am still fraying/breaking the top thread while it looks too loose on the bottom. I sewed some light material (a microfiber rag single thickness) and it still happened. Sled
  18. PROGRESS!! If you are reading this consider it that it was YOUR advice that did it. I have done so much I do not know who helped the most but thank you all. I actually stitched a few inches (runaway train style) before the needle came out and broke. The top was out... needle broke. I think that is too much leather but at least there are stitches!! not perfect yet. The Bobbin is now a lot tighter to pull, I re timed it (not great, again in AM) I still believe that the new tensioner assembly will help. even with the foot up... and BEFORE threading the needle sometime it will get very tight to pull, and then loosen again. I think it is the dirt/rust look on the shaft and plates. I may polish them tomorrow to see. But not before testing the current set up on something lighter. It may have been me panicking that broke the needle (third one today, the other 2 I was just trying to pull thread through it!) Tan pic is the top side, brown the bottom.
  19. Hmmm, I have some other thread but not industrial.. I do have other needles, this one is new No new thread yet, on the way though
  20. 1, yes I think so. I really do. 2, Thread given to me with machine, all older I guess, certainly dusty cones, I dusted this one and the thread LOOKS perfect to me. I have certainly wasted enough to be past the outer part down to fresh... 3, According to what I see online the bobbin is correct. 4, I think? I have cleaned and wiped everywhere I can find and reach. 5, according to others (Cowboy Bob) the one drip a second I get in the window at high speed (empty of thread) is OK. I have read the entire parts and owners manual watched a ton of videos about many machines and believe it is lubing correctly. ## The stitch is set to the middle of what it will do. ### The machine seems to purr like a kitten. Very Smooth and quiet. It just will not stitch YET!! BUT I am still fraying threads in three motions up and down (By hand) I was getting horrible stitches when this started.... I wish I was receiving stitches now. I have had the thread tensioner out 4 times, re adjusted so when I lift the foot it makes contact an opens a little. Anything I touch I wipe and clean and put back exactly as I removed it, including the Feed dogs, I have adjusted the foot tension (correctly I believe) My thread is NOT on a stand, but is Jury rigged to work exactly as I see it in the videos up off the spool to a little clean wire loop and back to the machine. When the bobbin holder?? is out of the machine and threaded with the Bobbin it flows out of there very easily. MUCH easier than the thread at any point south of the 3 loops you make the S on. I think I need to go through the timing video 30 more times and do it again. It cannot be that the thread does not have enough tension.Not anymore since the tips I received and steps I took with the tensioner. The washer from way at the beginning is gone and it gets tight like it should. I believe it has something to do with the timing in the Bobbin shuttle?? BUT I am having fun. I have not repaired anything mechanical in a long time. Does thread go bad? I posted a WTT because I have 12 rolls of this same thread in differing amounts on what started as 1lb spools (1 full) If It Does, I will remove that post immediately
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