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BtownMN

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About BtownMN

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Minneapolis MN

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Oak Bark Tanned Leather
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  1. J&FJ Baker & Co Oak Bark and Veg Tan equestrian leathers are now available in the US! Carmine Jack Leather has Bakers traditional oak bark bridle, harness, and stirrup leathers in a number of different colors. We also have some of their veg tan offerings including their panel hides and bag hides (double back hides averaging (34sqft) as well as their corrected grain veg tan harness leathers which are a big hit in Japan. We have straps available for sale on our website but working on getting everything else up there. The backs, butts, and whole hides we offer are all done through direct invoicing so please send us a message to get an order started.
  2. Are you looking for stirrup bars? Or Stirrup butts? I have J&FJ Bakers Oak bark tanned leathers (bridle, harness and stirrup) available and if I dont have what you need I can easily get it.
  3. The skiver has been sold.
  4. I have two Black Oak Bark bridle double shoulders for sale from J&FJ Baker in England. $250 each plus shipping. Between 11 and 11.5 sq ft. These shoulders are unsplit and are between 3mm and 3.5mm. Let me know if you have questions. Black Oak Bark Shoulder #1 Black Oak Bark Shoulder #2
  5. Cobra NP-10 bell skiver. Purchased new from Cobra a little over a year ago. $2100. Runs excellent its just that business needs have changed. Local pickup only. I am in Minneapolis MN but I would be willing to road trip a few hours to meet. PM me with questions.
  6. Natural Bakers Oak Bark Bridle has no wax or grease (called Dubbin) unless specifically requested when ordering direct from the tannery and can range from 4mm to 6.5mm. From what you described you did in fact get the Bridle leather but better quality pictures would go a long way. Flesh sides vary with each butt. Some smooth. Some hard. Some not. The waxy Bakers Natural you are looking for from Japan (Leather Phoenix) is Bakers Stirrup leather. Its a corrected grain leather that is finished with dubbin. Would explain why there are no pores and doesnt get any water stains. Its advertised on the japan site as Harness which is why it was distributed in the states as Harness. See link below. Japan sells Bakers "Navy" harness but Bakers only makes their Navy color on their Stirrup butts. https://l-phoenix.shop-pro.jp/?pid=108304152
  7. Hey folks, Im trying to sew a front pocket into a tote with my machine and I am wondering how other people temporarily attach their pockets to keep them from moving around during stitching? Same for little badges with the logo? Do you glue the pockets on first? Do you tack it somehow? Tape it in place before stitching? Are there any good videos about this? I get the feeling it something pretty obvious and I’m just not smart enough to see the simplest explanation.
  8. That was a lot of really great info. Before buying this machine I had no idea there were so many different needle styles. I’m currently using a 794S. I’ve got a number of different sizes and haven’t started playing with them yet. I like the big chunky thread look and am using a 277 thread. I’ve got some size 350 Serabraid samples that I will start messing with once I figure this machine out some. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!!
  9. Thanks Tom. Could recommend a brand?
  10. Thanks for the response! I still plan to do a fair amount of hand sewing but I had this example already glued up so I rolled with it. Makes good sense about turning it around instead of slamming it into reverse Is there a way to make the back stitching spots look nicer on the back? Do I need to cheat the material to the side a little in an effort to get the needle to slide next to the already stitched thread instead of plowing right through the middle? Right now the fronts are looking nice but the backs look beyond sloppy.
  11. Here are a couple photo of what I’m talking about. Do you folks pull the thread through to the back?
  12. Hey folks, I recently purchased a Cobra4 and trying to find information on how to properly start and stop a stitch line. What do I do with the threads on both sides of the leather item? Do I pull them through to the backside to melt the ends as if I were hand stitching? Also, how do I properly do a backstitch on a machine without it looking like garbage. I know these are basic questions and kind rock bottom fundamentals but I’m surprised that I have not been able to find information about these two topics! Anyone have videos or suggestions on where to get this information? Or wanna share your tips for start/stopping a pretty stitch line with a machine and what to do with the thread ends? Thanks!
  13. Hey folks, I am trying to make some belts for the extended family for Xmas. I've got some 11-13 oz black Harness leather that has a finished back. I need to dye the edges to cover the pink middle that is sandwiched between the black grain side and the black flesh side. For people that do this to this kind of leather, what dye do you use and how do you prevent it from rubbing off. I've used fiebings Pro Dye in combination with the Bob Park method for finishing edges. I've tried burnishing with beeswax, tokonole, and gum trag (not all at the same time). The edge dye still rubs off. I've done a coat, let it dry, buffed, recoat, dry, buffed again, then burnished. Still no good. I've also tried some black oil dye (with neatsfoot as the liquid) but same results. What am I missing here? There is an element that I'm missing. I know this leather is packed with waxes and oils fighting me every step, but I've seen it done. People are selling this leather as belts with edges dyed. Thanks for any advise!
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