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BtownMN

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Posts posted by BtownMN

  1. Posted · Report reply

    On 7/26/2022 at 10:57 AM, Mike516 said:

    Anyone with an AK-20, what oil do you use?

    Im out of the stuff it came with and wanted to get some more.

    I was going to use sewing machine oil, but wasn’t sure if it was the same.

    TIA

    I know this is an old post but there wasn’t a response. The oil in an AK20 strap cutter is 85W-90 Gear Oil, not sewing machine oil. It’s a closed system so you should not have to add oil unless you are changing the oil. As long as you can see a little oil in the window then you don’t need to add oil. 

  2. Posted · Report reply

    See those holes in the ring? There is a bar that came with the machine that fits in those holes. Gives you leverage. It is reverse threaded so you need to go the other direction. Right-loosey, lefty-tighty. Try having someone hold the hand crank wheel behind the machine while another person uses turns the nut.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I'm a firm believer that umbrella or liability policies are a good thing to have. I would not rely solely on an LLC designation to protect against someone going after my house. Depending on the state you might have to go through a broker to find a policy for leather manufacturing. MN was exceptionally hard to find something for some unknown reason. Insurance companies like ACT will provide umbrella policies and coverage for your tools/materials at home that might not be covered by your home owners insurance. I pay $400 a year for a million dollar liability policy and $50k coverage for materials/tools.

  6. Posted · Edited by BtownMN · Report reply

    J&FJ Baker & Co Oak Bark and Veg Tan equestrian leathers are now available in the US! Carmine Jack Leather has Bakers traditional oak bark bridle, harness, and stirrup leathers in a number of different colors. We also have some of their veg tan offerings including their panel hides and bag hides (double back hides averaging (34sqft) as well as their corrected grain veg tan harness leathers which are a big hit in Japan.

    We have straps available for sale on our website but working on getting everything else up there.  The backs, butts, and whole hides we offer are all done through direct invoicing so please send us a message to get an order started.

    OBT Natural.jpg

    OBT Bridle Butt.jpg

    OBT Shoulder.jpg

  7. Posted · Report reply

    On 11/2/2020 at 1:37 PM, steadybrook said:

    Looking for English saddle stirrup bars. Abby has them, but i would like to find some here in N America 

    Are you looking for stirrup bars? Or Stirrup butts? I have J&FJ Bakers Oak bark tanned leathers (bridle, harness and stirrup) available and if I dont have what you need I can easily get it.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Natural Bakers Oak Bark Bridle has no wax or grease (called Dubbin) unless specifically requested when ordering direct from the tannery and can range from 4mm to 6.5mm. From what you described you did in fact get the Bridle leather but better quality pictures would go a long way. Flesh sides vary with each butt. Some smooth. Some hard. Some not.

    The waxy Bakers Natural you are looking for from Japan (Leather Phoenix) is Bakers Stirrup leather. Its a corrected grain leather that is finished with dubbin. Would explain why there are no pores and doesnt get any water stains. Its advertised on the japan site as Harness which is why it was distributed in the states as Harness. See link below. Japan sells Bakers "Navy" harness but Bakers only makes their Navy color on their Stirrup butts.

    https://l-phoenix.shop-pro.jp/?pid=108304152

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Hey folks,

    Im trying to sew a front pocket into a tote with my machine and I am wondering how other people temporarily attach their pockets to keep them from moving around during stitching? Same for little badges with the logo? Do you glue the pockets on first? Do you tack it somehow? Tape it in place before stitching? Are there any good videos about this?

    I get the feeling it something pretty obvious  and I’m just not smart enough to see the simplest explanation.

     

  14. Posted · Report reply

    On 10/14/2018 at 4:31 AM, JLSleather said:

    I thought those holes looked like they came from a "leather point" needle, likely an "S" or "D" point.  But :dunno: Tom could be right - I'm hardly the expert.

    But,  I like these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Organ-7X4NW-DYX3LL-794LL-Leather-Point-Sewing-Machine-Needles-Singer-Consew/400730390609?var=670274800836

    I haven't used ALL the point styles available by any means.  But I have used the "D" and "S" point, which I don't much care for. The hole tends to look elongated and it gives the appearance of "space" between the stitches, which I don't care for.  The "LR" point leaves an angled stitch that I have always thought was a bit "girly".  These LL point needles leave a straight line stitch, and the hole is quite diamond shaped - much as you would see with a good awl - so the stitch is tight and so is the line. :dunno:

    When doing holsters and belts, MOST of the time I'm using a #24 needle with size 277 thread (from Bob @ Toledo).  Many will recommend a #25 needle for that thread, but ... well, I already mentioned the gaping hole thing, right?   But I have them in sizes 23 to 26 for assorted reasons.

    A couple of examples made just for when folks ask ...

    Untitled-3.jpgRed arrow shows direction of stitching, so you're looking at it just the way you would see it in the machine with the leather moving away from you.  The stitch on the right "appears" longer - it isn't. The stitch length is the same, but appears longer due to teh "sensitive" angled stitch.  Note also that the LL point tends to pull deeper .. the LR point sits on the leather a bit higher.  I have some LR points in a drawer for maybe a couple of years now.. perhaps I'll use them someday ...

    Bottom of pic shows a pic taken on a demo holster.  24 LL needle, 277 natural thread, 6 stitches per inch.  Nice straight line, tight pulled stitch, holes filled in by thread, no "space" showing between stitches.

     

     

     

     

    That was a lot of really great info. Before buying this machine I had no idea there were so many different needle styles. I’m currently using a 794S. I’ve got a number of different sizes and haven’t started playing with them yet. I like the big chunky thread look and am using a 277 thread. I’ve got some size 350 Serabraid samples that I will start messing with once I figure this machine out some. 

     

    Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!!

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the response! I still plan to do a fair amount of hand sewing but I had this example already glued up so I rolled with it. Makes good sense about turning it around instead of slamming it into reverse  

    Is there a way to make the back stitching spots look nicer on the back? Do I need to cheat the material to the side a little in an effort to get the needle to slide next to the already stitched thread instead of plowing right through the middle?

     

    Right now the fronts are looking nice but the backs look beyond sloppy. 

  18. Posted · Edited by BtownMN · Report reply

    Hey folks,

    I recently purchased a Cobra4 and trying to find information on how to properly start and stop a stitch line. What do I do with the threads on both sides of the leather item? Do I pull them through to the backside to melt the ends as if I were hand stitching? Also, how do I properly do a backstitch on a machine without it looking like garbage. 

     

    I know these are basic questions and kind rock bottom fundamentals but I’m surprised that I have not been able to find information about these two topics! Anyone have videos or suggestions on where to get this information? Or wanna share your tips for start/stopping a pretty stitch line with a machine and what to do with the thread ends?

     

    Thanks!

  19. Posted · Edited by BtownMN · Report reply

    Hey folks,

     

    I am trying to make some belts for the extended family for Xmas. I've got some 11-13 oz black Harness leather that has a finished back. I need to dye the edges to cover the pink middle that is sandwiched between the black grain side and the black flesh side. 

     

    For people that do this to this kind of leather, what dye do you use and how do you prevent it from rubbing off. 

     

    I've used fiebings Pro Dye in combination with the Bob Park method for finishing edges. I've tried burnishing with beeswax, tokonole, and gum trag (not all at the same time). The edge dye still rubs off. 

     

    I've done a coat, let it dry, buffed, recoat, dry, buffed again, then burnished. Still no good. I've also tried some black oil dye (with neatsfoot as the liquid) but same results. 

     

    What am I missing here? There is an element that I'm missing. I know this leather is packed with waxes and oils fighting me every step, but I've seen it done. People are selling this leather as belts with edges dyed. 

     

    Thanks for any advise!

     

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