Michiel

I think the pfaff 437 has a subclass with some kind of walking foot (and it is a zig zag) but its not a sailmaker or something like that…

Thank you! this will do

That is an interesting part (the adjustable stop) i have never seen this one before does someone have (or can make) better pictures of it so i can see the complete design? regards michiel

College sewing in london and sometimes armastore.eu sometimes i am lucky when i google the parts number did you find a parts manual online? college sewing has them on their website: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-books/durkopp-adler-parts-books.html

It can be done but involves more work and costs You need to replace the complete hook assembly and to make it fit grind away some steel from te machine and you have to replace te takeup lever The price difference between the two is not so much that all this effort is considered worth it (unless you like to tinker with old sewing machines) if you search on this forum you would find more about it (i believe) i have several adler’s 67 and 167 and think they are both great machines (and you only need big bobbins for long runs)

I think that the 167 has other (bigger) screws on the hook assembly (and cap) than the 67 so if your bobbins are about 21,8 mm you need an adler 67 bobbin cap (or screws and spring)

No its the other way, the bobbins of an adler 67 are smaller I think that you machine might have the smaller hook assembly and is technical an adler / chandler 67. The bobbin of a 67 is about 21,8 mm (the cap is hard to measure because of the tensionspring but i measure about 25,5) the bobbin of a 167 is about 26 mm thats why i asked your bobbin seize…

What is the size of your bobbins? (the 167 and 67 are the same machines except for the bobbin size…)

I often start with some small test pieces to see what works best To keep the pieces in place while sewing: for me a stapler sometimes works (between the sewing line and the edge so i can pass them while sewing and than remove the staples afterwards)

I donot think you need to get the compleet cover under the arm if you can fold the edge a little upwards you ca stitch it while you keep most of the cover in the vertical plane left from the arm (and turn it slowly round) but you need a free arm anyway (think i could do it with a adler 69 or a pfaff 335 Difficult to explain with words anyway what i should do is try to follow the stich with my machine (without sewing) just to see if i can make it most of the times you discover you can fold en turn the leather or otherstuf more than you thought regards michiel

An alternative in the same price class could be the adler 220 its a flatbed but has triple transport. (And is as vintage as the 105-64) An affordable free arm machine with triple transport for heavy thread is difficult to find in europe …. regards, michiel

For canvas an adler 67 , 167 or 267 will do (best with subclass 373)

I made a “new” foot for a a machine with a rare seize by cutting off the upper part off a more standard foot and doing some welding and grinding (in my case i made a combination of the upper part from one foot and the lower part of another one) It did not look very appealing because i did not bother grinding of the weld but it worked perfect (I did not take a photo and do not have it here at the moment)

It stil keeps me wondering…. Here is some one arguing sewing machines have theire orientation because of hand cranking (by right handed people), but since we have motors now, the normal machines are better for left handed people. in that way the left stand sewing machines might be made to enable (right handed) operators to use theire right hand to handle the leather better. (I think, as a right handed person i would prefer a left stand cilinderarm better than a normal one) (any way : i stil think operating the reverse handle is not that difficult that its the reason to mirror a sewing machine, it is what you do with both hands while sewing) https://www.andreaschewedesign.com/blog/left-handed-sewing-machines i also noted that they make post bed machines with the needle on the right side of the post (i thin’ they call it a leftpost sewing machine) in stead of the left side but never bothered making the complete post bed machine in mirror

The original question keeps me wondering…. i hope someone finds an real source with the answer i looked in the old sewing machine books i have but nobody thought it necessary to explain apparently it was obvious Why they were made