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About Michiel

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  • Location
    Amsterdam, netherlands
  • Interests
    Ships canvas leather and metalwork

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    Leatherwork / sewing leather and other heavy materials
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  1. Are the inner and Outer foot both rising not high enough? or is one doing it beter than the other ? btw: my interpretation of “ footlift “in the specifications is the Max distance between the machine bed and feet and not the movement of the feet While sewing (but That is how i read it) my adlers in that class have an footlift about 7 mm but i think the movement of the foot is also more like ca 4 mm regards Michiel
  2. In the picture its aan rollerfoot nut its the same procedure for an walking foot and the Gauche van be a piece of wood or something else with the right size Sorry, auto correct om my ipad only does dutch so changes everything
  3. You neef to alter the height of the presserbar from the service manual : Presser bar height adjustment Required adjusting gauge: dimension block 46 (7 mm) partNo.981130005 1. Raise lifter lever 47. Fig. 3. 2. Attach hinged foot. 3. Place dimension block 46 underneath hinged foot on to throat plate. 4. Slacken screw 48. 5. Lower presser bar 49 down to the dimension block 46. 6 . Tighten screw 48.
  4. Great machines if it is in aan Good condition i would nog worry too Much about spare parts sent you aan pm in Dutch......
  5. Yes its a adler 69 but i canot Say What subclass it is with only these Photo’s I can see it has needle transport at least ....(or triple feed but it is hard to see)
  6. The adler 98 is definitely stronger than an berina 217 the feed dogs are much wider and its an stronger machine, verry useful for sails the adler 266 / 166 is for heavy needles and threads (needles 140-230) but like wiz says : for boat covers and other stuf which does not require zig zag an triple feed machine is better (i use an adler 167 for stuf like that) michiel
  7. If you turn the machine by hand (slow) you can see if the stitch in reverse is longer or constabulary is right (my guess would be you are missing stitches in reverse...) regards michiel
  8. Hi nick, i have an 98 too and never found a manual..... beware: on the back side there is a cover, if you open it you will find yourself with some loose parts! i just wanted to take a look but it toke me some efford to get everything back in place the right way (and with the timing right) but if its not working properly maybe some did the same and did not succed to get it right again. Kind regards michiel
  9. Every time I need a part for an adler i think about you and your singers constabulary (but i still keep buying adlers)
  10. ther are no timing marks, but when you put the neelde and hook in the right position for timing the hook you only have to put the belt on its place
  11. this post was verry helpfull when i had to replace the timingbelt of mij adler 169 when I did it again with an adler 67 I made some photo's of how i got the belt through the gap....
  12. Just Made two extra short tables (i stil have more heads than tables but this does help)
  13. The post of an one-needle machine is significant smaller and you can sew closer to the edge (of the post)
  14. If you cannot find an service manual i would try it with an other brand postbed sewing machine the adler 68 looks not verry different to me http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Manuals_Adler/Manual_Adler_68.pdf if that doesnot work you could use the partsmanual for your machine and for the adler to find out how it is for your machine it might be a puzzle but if you print them all and do some close reading you can do it (for me this method works) http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Parts_Books_Adler/68.pdf
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