Hildebrand

Kbarker not sure where in MT you are but I would look to come to the Sheridan, WY leather show in May. There will be a lot of leather people and venders there so you could look at a lot of things first hand.

Not sure where you are at but I have had good luck using the disposable stain applicators from the big box home improvement stores they are about 3X5 inches and come in packs of about 6. I can get a much more even coat with them than I can with daubers.

If you are going to try this with the Dremel you will need to have a shaft supported at both ends, that will eliminate the lateral pressure on the bearings provided the Dremel itself is supported or the shaft attachment is used.

From reading and research on here I think most that mold first hand sew. If you are making holsters I would really look to the powered machines. I started with a Tippman Boss and yes I made some decent holsters and one belt, but since I moved up to a CB 4500 and have both hands to control the object being sewn I have been able to tackle some projects that I never would have with the Boss. Todd

I appreciate the time you all put in. I was just thinking it was my machines since I hadn't seen a topic like this pop up. Todd

Yintx, I will try to get a different picture tonight. Tugadude your right its a sandwich, I did burnish the edges of the small pieces where they go across the larger pieces but it just looks odd. I thought maybe there is something else people do different in this situation. Todd

I have a question, how do you guys finish edges that are different lengths? I am building a cartridge holder that will strap to the arm, the current version is 3 layers, front, back and the middle layer makes up the wrap around strap. On this version I burnished the edges of the top and bottom where they pass over the middle, it looks ok but a little off. I was wondering if someone had a different idea. I may look at making the back and the wrap around one piece on the next one. Thanks Todd

JLS, I lost the quote I wanted but I think the video you posted from Sam with the deep voice is the best information on making the "Flat Back" style of pancake holster. He shows how he uses a piece of leather to go over the gun at several points marking it at each one then uses those marks to lay out his sticking lines. Todd

There is a write up on here about the adjustments that have to be made going from the regular pressor foot to the inline one. I am pretty sure it’s not a cowboy vs Juki thing it’s the regular vs inline differences.

I think this has been discussed here before and the general consensus was that by the time you get all the measurements and spend the time printing the gun and tweaking it to make sure its exactly right it is just cheaper and easier to buy the blue guns. Todd

I am no expert but I have found that really slowing down and making sure the stamp placement is exactly where I want it helps. Also I try to stamp at a repeatable angle to a reference line, for example I have basket stamped a couple of holsters and I do 45 degrees from the vertical line at the front edge of the holster. I use a plastic triangle and lightly scribe lines to line the stamps on, sometimes each row sometimes every couple of rows. Also I have started using one of the round combination magnifying glass and light, this really helps with stamp placement. I have found both slowing down and using scribed lines when there is any doubt about where to put the stamp really helps. Todd

Thank you Jeff, that is exactly the one I was remembering.

I know this has been covered before but I cannot find the thread with the search function. There was a thread which showed step by step the order to sew a IWB holster with a stiffener around the opening. If someone remembers that thread and can point me to it I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks, Todd

I will take them for the $230. I will pm when I get to work to get payment details. Todd

Unfortunately that logo means a lot. I have seen women lose their ever loving mind over a name brand wallet or purse. Usually not that well made.