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Everything posted by Hildebrand

  1. @Frodo it could be the compass but I think it is more likely that as you were going around one of the pieces you were not able to keep the compass perfectly perpendicular to the edge. As you travel along the leather if one leg gets ahead of the other it changes the actual distance between them, this is particularly tough on corners. This might save you buying an expensive tool that might not change the outcome. Todd
  2. @chrisashits very common over here for people to put their name on their belt especially people in the western culture. I made belts for my 2 and 5 year old granddaughters and put their names on them. I realize your post is in jest but when poking fun of others it really plays better if you don't have grammar mistakes in your post( their-ownership vs there-location). Todd
  3. @Rahereyou are right and we cannot control the eb and flow of a waistline. But, I tell people when I make a belt for them, especially if it has a name on it, that it is designed so that everything is centered when worn in the center hole with the same buckle it was measured with. I make sure to either do the measurement on the person or they take a picture of their existing belt with a tape next to it, I do not do a call in order that they have measured themselves, to many horror stories on this board and others Todd.
  4. The big reason I line holsters and belts is the added stiffness it adds. If you have the same weight leather, 16 oz for example for a belt, a combination of 2- 8 oz pieces or a 12 and 4 oz piece will be noticeably stiffer, when glued and stitched together, than a piece of 16 oz leather. For holsters I also like to line them since it makes the inside smooth too. Todd
  5. @Loudcherokeefor all practical purposes yes. Best thing to do is look and which dealer is closest to you to save on shipping. All 3 dealers have a presence on this forum and are very helpful. I bought my CB 4500 from Bob and the deal was extremely smooth. Todd
  6. @Oxbo at that age kids are very busy with school and other activities, sometimes it takes a while for them the realize what it is they want to do. Its a great looking shop and logo. Todd
  7. In the year you have yours, how often have you used it? One or two threads? well with responses like that I wish you well. Frankly if I had only used it to burn "one or two threads" I would not have posted since I would not have had a valid sample size. I won't waste any more of your or my time. Todd
  8. Also possible you got a bad one. I’m just a hobby guy but I am still on the first set of batteries more than a year after I started using it. Todd
  9. I usually use 220 then 400 grit, followed by water then a glycerine soap rub and a brisk canvas rub. I got the soap and canvas from a Don Gonzales utube video on edge slicking. This has worked the best for me and I have tried, saddle soap then a motorized burnisher(Dremel and grinder motor based), saddle soap and cloth but nothing works as well as the glycerine soap and canvas for me. Todd
  10. I use the Aquilim 315 as well and have had great results and no failures or issues.
  11. I never used the stitching chisels but when i was hand stitching I would use a groover front and back then wet the leather and use a stitching wheel to mark hole locations front and back then I would use an awl to push front to back. You get a pretty good feel for where the point is coming out and rarely did it miss the stitch groove. Not sure if thats an option for you but I can tell you it was a lot less stressful than what you are trying to line up. Todd
  12. For 1mm leather I would talk to the clicker die people and have them make you a mallet die that you can strike and cut your patterns out. I have one that is 3 1/2" by 5" and it works fine in up to 9 oz leather with just a dead blow hammer. Todd
  13. i really haven't and I have not messed a bunch with the pressor foot tension. I did learn the hard way not to sew on leather that is the least bit damp. That will leave bad marks. Todd
  14. @Kcstott sorry I was guilty of repeating something I read without confirming it. Todd
  15. I use 277 top and bottom on my CB 4500. So far there have not been any issues and I screwed up and ended up with a couple belts that are 18-19 oz, it cruised right through those. Todd
  16. For cutting I bought a large fabric cutting mat at JoAnns Fabric, it was on sale and didn’t cost much. Been using it for a year and no sign of cutting through and doesn’t seem to dull my knife much. Todd
  17. I line all of my holsters, like @Dwightsaid it makes them much firmer and they retain their shape better. Plus I like the looks of it. I have lined some mag pouches but I don't think I will any more going forward, didn't seem like it improved things much. Todd
  18. I saw an ad where Fiebings has a new line of non alcohol dies out. It said for places that alcohol could not be imported, here in the US California won't let alcohol dies in. Might have to order them direct from Fiebings or possibly one of the leather supply houses. Todd
  19. I bought an identical one to the Tandy Pro one on Amazon a couple months ago. I only paid $170 so I was a little skeptical but once I got it I looked at the videos using the various splitters and it is the same. It came razor sharp and does a great job on what I have tried in it( 1 and 1 1/2" belt leather to thin it). You have to mount it solid but otherwise it is great. Might be worth a look. Todd
  20. @JRP430 buyng by the square foot is generally the most expensive way to buy leather. I you are looking to do belts and holsters I would either buy a side of leather(Knowing the belly won't really be good for your purposes except possibly pattern making) or from Springfield Leather buy a single shoulder for the holsters and a 1/2 belt bend to strip the belts off of. The second option would give you the most usable leather for the money. Your question as to how many square feet is difficult to answer, it depends. A drop loop holster which has the holster and back piece all in one takes much more than just a fold over western style which typically takes more than an avenger or pancake style. Typical belt will only be say 2 to 3 square feet but it needs to be 50+ inches long by 4-6" wide.
  21. Thank you. I am pretty happy with this one. Its the first one I used a piece Herman Oak leather on. It definitely is different quality wise and is much easier to mold and burnish than the Tandy double shoulders I have been using. Todd
  22. Title says it. I have a couple belts for my granddaughters and I would like to sew them but I only have about 3/16” between the tooling boarder and the belt edge. Thank you. Todd
  23. Look for a spot in the thread path where the thread is getting caught. Each time I have had stitch length issues it was because the thread was catching somewhere, usually on the back side around the pressor foot lift mechanism. Todd
  24. For me it was when I got more serious about different kinds of holsters. With a machine I can do the sewing in 5 minutes or less and since this is just a hobby I have enough time to experiment. I am pretty sure with how long it takes me to hand sew I would not make any to just try something. Also I know within the leather world we all have an idea where we stand on hand vs machine sewn but in reality I don't think anyone buying leather products knows the difference and if they do they don't care. Some of them actually prefer the machine stitch since it usually appears more uniform. Todd
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